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Making an accurate taper hole

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Hi

I’m making all-in-one salt shaker/ pepper mills. The idea is from this article in American Woodturner.


It relies on a tapered hole in the pepper mill and a matching tapered tenon to hold the salt shaker in place. I’m having trouble getting the tapered hole accurate enough to hold the salt shaker in place and be able to release for filling.

I did get one to work by making a tapered mandrel with sandpaper on it to true up the hole after shaping it with a gouge, but it’s very time consuming and still a bit sloppy.

How would you make a 1 1/2” hole with an accurate taper?

Here’s a picture of the first one
IMG_0370.jpegIMG_0369.jpeg
 
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I have used a method to make a tapered fit for installing finials into a segmented lid such that there are no gaps in the fit that you can get with a straight hole. The procedure is to make a small taper gauge to get the female bore close but it is important to get it free of dips or bumps. The next step is to use the gauge to get the male side close, make several pencil lines on the length of the taper then fit the female side on it, twist enough to smudge the lines and you will see where to take off a small amount.
 
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jim, that’s a good refresher for the male end.

Don

I think the pencil trick will help a lot. You mentioned a gage. What would this look like? Just a wooden cork?
 

john lucas

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I use this jig to turn Morse tapers. I mark 2 marks on the wood the distance of the length of this jig. at the left hand mark I turn down until the laft small side just fits. I turn the right side down until the right side if the jig fits. then I just turn away the middle of the wood to give me the taper. when I need a short #2 Morse taper like my Nova live center uses I simply part tge taper I turned to the proper size.
 

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If the idea is for the cap to friction fit into the body, then I probably wouldn't strictly try to exactly match the tapers. Instead, I'd probably do what I do with boxes: Turn a very slight crown on the taper of the cap, so that the grown friction fits into the taper of the body. In all honesty, I don't know if I could exactly fit the two tapers so that they actually held with friction, and I feel that the tolerance would be so tight, that the moment I overturned one, then of course, its all over. With a slight (and it could be largely imperceptible) crown in the cap, that bulge will fill into the hole of the body and give you a nice friction fit. On top of that, you will be able to rock the cap back and forth just a little to get it out again, allowing for a slightly tighter friction fit. Again, the crown (bulge) in the tenon of the cap wouldn't need to be really noticeable to the end user...it would only need to be strong enough to give you that pinch point so that the cap actually holds in place.
 
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I only use short wooden morse tapers now (and use them a lot - the advantages are many).

Appendix 1 of the attached document, starting on page 20, describes the method I now use. (I used to use a gauge I made from brass but now teach using a pair of cheap vernier calipers, an easy method for someone who can't or doesn't want to make a gauge)

Like Sir Lucas, I also use short wood 2MTs in Nova live centers to make lots of special holding things. Some examples, along with what comes with the Nova center. By turning a short cylinder, they are especially good for holding something with a hole drilled into the end.

live_center_MT2_IMG_7914.jpg
 

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How would you make a 1 1/2” hole with an accurate taper?

A hole 1.5" deep? One possible answer to that question would be to use a tapered reamer, if that diameter would suit your purpose. I keep a couple of #2MT reamers.

You can buy tapered reamers of various sizes, but all of mine (except for one) are fairly slender, and intended for reaming by hand.

If you want something bigger, I've known people who would grind a wide spade bit into a taper shape, sharpen it, and drill carefully with the work and bit well supported. (Start with a cylindrical hole about the same size as the smallest diameter of the taper.) I've shaped spade bits for special things but never for a taper (at least not yet!)

Oh, if you have a metal turning lathe, it's not hard to make any kind or size of a perfect taper, inside or outside.

JKJ
 
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There is also a plastic bung for salt shakers.


Specifications:
Dimensions: 1-3/16" dia. x 1/2" thick
 
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I tried @Don Wattenhofer pencil method yesterday. Worked better than the sandpaper covered plug, but still very fussy to get a good hole.

Today I tried setting up a homemade “box rest” to guide a carbide scraper. Took some time to set up, but made a perfect tapered hole on first try. Once set up, it’s easy to make multiples. I use a second banjo is so I can slide the main banjo in and out without messing up the angle.

Thanks for all the ideas. I’m getting good at making the male taper.

Here is a picture of the setup.
IMG_0374.jpeg
 
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I use this jig to turn Morse tapers. I mark 2 marks on the wood the distance of the length of this jig. at the left hand mark I turn down until the laft small side just fits. I turn the right side down until the right side if the jig fits. then I just turn away the middle of the wood to give me the taper. when I need a short #2 Morse taper like my Nova live center uses I simply part tge taper I turned to the proper size.
That’s a cool idea john. I’m guessing you drilled holes that were close to size and then did some hand filing?
 
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