Making a Bedan from HSS blank

[John Torchick]

Need some help here. There was a post of someone who got three square HSS blanks, 8x8x200 mm and made a Bedan tool. I have looked high and low but can't find the thread or post. Thought I saved it but didn't. That's what I get for thinking. I have some questions on this- what angle is the Bedan grind; how far into the handle is the tool inserted; epoxy to hold in place? Many thanks for your help.

 

[Dwight R Rutherford]

Isn’t a Bedan a trapezoid shape? In addition to the grind on the end I think you need to angle the sides.

 

[John Torchick]

Thanks, that's what they say. Need the other info to get started. Got some dowel but need a some copper pipe for a collar.

 

[R Henrickson]

Isn’t a Bedan a trapezoid shape? In addition to the grind on the end I think you need to angle the sides.

That depends on how it is used. A trapezoidal cross-section might be useful if it is used bevel DOWN. Escoulen, however, uses the bedan with the bevel UP, so his bedans have vertical rather than slanted sides. See various videos of him at work -- amazing!

 

[RichColvin]

I have the Sorby began, and the sides are vertical.

 

[John Torchick]

Still need to know how far into the handle I should insert the blank to be secure. I have a quality epoxy that I can use.

 

[Ron Grob]

When I made mine, I only inserted the steel about 1.5" into the handle and sealed with epoxy. No problems with it so far - seems good and solid.

 

[John Torchick]

Thanks, Ron. What was the angle of your bevel?

 

[robo hippy]

Well, the bedan has angled sides. My guess for that is mostly for clearance when making deeper peeling cuts. There are various beading and parting tools, up to maybe 1/2 inch wide, and can be made with square stock. I have also heard them called 'sizing' tools for rough cutting/peeling cutting of tenons, or removing stock for big coves. I have one I use for tenons on lidded boxes that I turned into more of a convex curved parting tool with about 30 degree bevel angle. It is used more like a NRS rather than peeling cut type of tool. The original bedan I had came with about a 45 degree bevel, but I think I modified it considerably.

robo hippy

 

[John Torchick]

robo hippy, I saw an end view of a Bedan too and it tapered slightly as you indicate. But Escoulen has no taper on his. Fascinating to watch him turn wood. Do you have a photo of the tool you describe with the convex curved profile?

 

[hockenbery]

Still need to know how far into the handle I should insert the blank to be secure. I have a quality epoxy that I can use.

I usually go about 2”.
I also just pressure fit the handles and knock the tool in my hitting the end of the handle against the floor.
The first tool in I leave the spur drive wast on to take the marks.

Most tolls work forever with a pressure fit. If the tool come loose I add some thick CA and knock the tool in again on the floor.

Pressure fitting and CA make it a lot easier to put a new tool,of the same size in.

 

[Clifton C]

John, here are a couple of pics. Bought these from JFE himself, great class at Arrowmont. One is 1/2 inch square the other is about 5mm by 10mm with no side bevel. The 5mm Bedan angle is 35° the 1/2 is about 33°, I think it probably started at 35. Overall length of 1/2" is 27" with a blade length of 10. The 5mm OAL is 16.5 with a blade length of 7. As others have said, 2" into handle should be good but if you'd feel safer with more, go for it... As I recall, before we got to use the tool, we had to learn a few curse words in french...

 

[Warren White]

You might be remembering the post I started on the IAP web site. Here is a link:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f45/making-new-turning-tool-157479/

 

[John Torchick]

Warren, that is it!!!! Looking in the wrong forum. The story of my life. Thanks to you and thanks to all who have contributed to my inquiry. Will review this forum and the IAP link and go from there. Basically, I have three new tools, depending on the grind. Getting close to beddy-bye time.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Isn’t a Bedan a trapezoid shape? In addition to the grind on the end I think you need to angle the sides.

Seems like I recall reading somewhere that the French use steel that has a square cross section and the British use steel with a trapezoidal cross section.

I have the Sorby began, and the sides are vertical.

The Sorby bedan that I got about a dozen years ago has a trapezoidal cross section

Still need to know how far into the handle I should insert the blank to be secure. I have a quality epoxy that I can use.

It doesn't need to be inserted very far ... 1 ½" to 2" is plenty unless you plan to use it as a pry bar.

 

[John Torchick]

Already have a pry bar and crow bar. Maybe I could grind the crow bar into a turning tool?

 

[hockenbery]

Already have a pry bar and crow bar. Maybe I could grind the crow bar into a turning tool?

You won’t be the first to do so.
In the early days of hollowing folks were grinding using crowbar like tools into scrapers for hollowing.
They didn’t need handles. But after a few hours they were hard to hold up so folks started using pulley arrangements with counter weights to assist holding the tools.

The modern hollowing tools and support systems have made that obsolete

 

[Bill Boehme]

I don't think that anybody mentioned the angle. On my bedan the angle is 45°, but I don't know if that is the original angle. I don't think that the angle is as important as keeping the edge razor sharp.

 

[John Torchick]

Thanks, Bill. For some strange reason, sharp tools cut better than dull tools.

 

[John Torchick]

Bringing this to the top. Finally got around to doing some more for the Bedan tool. Figured out how to get the handle in the chuck since the handle was too small for the jaws but fit the internal "jaws?" Set up the steady rest, centered the end of the handle by the live center point and drilled a shallow hole. Murphy's Law- no matter how many drill bits you have, you never had the correct one. Got everything but 7/16! Trip to Lowe's. Will let you know the outcome. Thanks to all for your help.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bringing this to the top. Finally got around to doing some more for the Bedan tool. Figured out how to get the handle in the chuck since the handle was too small for the jaws but fit the internal "jaws?" Set up the steady rest, centered the end of the handle by the live center point and drilled a shallow hole. Murphy's Law- no matter how many drill bits you have, you never had the correct one. Got everything but 7/16! Trip to Lowe's. Will let you know the outcome. Thanks to all for your help.

I have hundreds of twist drills. The trouble is that the size marked on the shank doesn't match the smallest print on the eye chart when I go to the ophthalmologist to get my vision checked. What they really need for vision testing are some real world situations such as looking through a big box of drill bits to find the right one.

 

[Richard Shelby]

3/8 galv pipe. 1/8 HSS on left 1/4 M42 on rt. both are metal lathe bits.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I have made several, for normal use they are square. The ones I made for boxes have a slanted left side.

 

[John Torchick]

I have hundreds of twist drills. The trouble is that the size marked on the shank doesn't match the smallest print on the eye chart when I go to the ophthalmologist to get my vision checked. What they really need for vision testing are some real world situations such as looking through a big box of drill bits to find the right one.

What chart? Heading to the shop this morning to finish the project.

 

[Bill Boehme]

What chart?

Here, see of you can read this.

 

[John Torchick]

Before or after drinking the wine?