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Making a bathroom sink out of a bowl......how to do it?

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
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I received a PM from a lady who wants to make a bathroom sink out of a Birds Eye Maple bowl. She's asking how to make it water tight. I've never done such a thing, so I don't know......just looking for some input from some others who have done this sort of thing.......

Years ago, I knew someone who made a bathtub out of laminated wood......I think he used a fiberglass coating......?

Thanks.......I'll pass along your comments.

ooc
 
If epoxy is used, it needs to be overcoated with something that will filter out UV - epoxy will deteriorate with UV exposure. In boat building it is usually overcoated with marine varnish to protect it - the more UV inhibitors the better. May not be a big problem depending on the natural light levels in the bathroom.

I'd think that fiberglass may be a better solution. The gloss can be dulled with a steel wool buff if it's a problem.
 
I've seen a tub made out of wood in a magazine. don't know what they used. I have a friend who uses West system for his bowls and they are beautiful. He says they would function as a sink. Not sure how much UV a sink would get being indoors. Box Elder changes overnight when exposed to direct sunlight but will last for a very long time indoors under indirect light so my personal opinion is the sink would be OK, but then I'm guessing. I've never looking into whether you could add a UV inhibitor to Epoxy. Call Don Gutzmer of Gougeon Brothers who sell West System epoxies to find out. He just posted an answer on this forum under another thread.

Don Gutzmer
Technical Advisor
Gougeon Brothers, Inc.
866-937-8797 ext. 1237
 
Any coating is liable to peel and yellow. I saw some information on coloring epoxy and it mentioned that UV will cause the epoxy to turn yellow and weaken. They recommended a coating on top of the epoxy that has UV inhibitors. Apparently putting UV inhibitors in the epoxy isn't going to work because that means the UV light has already penetrated into the epoxy.

It would be a big chore, but something like Minwax Wood Hardener applied under vacuum would allow the wood to be permeated. The material is super thin so it ought to penetrate deeply into thoroughly dry soft maple fairly well. After that, the wood hardener could also be used as a clear coat, but the difficulty is that it is far harder than either epoxy or Inlace so the job of finish turning might be rather difficult. I have used Minwax Wood Hardener on small jewelry type pieces of wood, but making a sink is a whole nuther challenge. I have seen ads showing high end designer sinks made of wood ... I haven't seen any lately.
 
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can't personally add anything, but I got curious as there are many that are made and work .....
did a google search for wood sink finishes, and found a few links you might check out, and some general consensus of finish materials .....

http://www.sinksgallery.com/tips-wooden-sinks-and-baths.aspx
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?181680-Wood-Bowl-Sink-how-to-finish-it
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Wood_Sink_Finish.html

wooden boat sealer
make sure it has a polyurethane clear coat for durability.
several coats of marine varnish
multiple coats Waterlox
CPES - a 2-part epoxy sealer


hope something in there helps you along 😉
 
When we were researching components for our new master bath, we prowled several "high end" fixture galleries in the more upscale areas closer to NYC. They each carried a line of wood sinks, from vessel bowls to farmer's bin sinks. The vessel bowls were all laminated/segmented glue-ups (no single piece bowls), and the salespeople were proud to point out that these $10-15,000 "artworks" were sealed in 18-20 coats of marine epoxy guaranteed for 15 years. Knowing those surface coatings would fail, I researched ways to render a turned bowl of size into a wood/epoxy composite material. There are several companies who do this for small items like pen blanks and knife or pistol handles, so I wondered what it would take to do.

First you need to oven dry your wood to as close to 0% MC as possible. Then you'll need a hard vacuum chamber that will handle the blank, plus withstand 26" of vacuum, as well as 150 PSI, and is fitted to handle epoxy infusion. You'll need a vacuum pump to pull close to 26" Hg, and a good air compressor. Blank gets dried and placed in the chamber in a "waste" container (that will contain the wood and the liquid epoxy). Vacuum is pulled and held stable for 15 min. Epoxy is mixed and fed into the container holding the blank until the liquid level remains constant indicating the wood's not taking up more resin. You then kill the vacuum, put on the pressure, and maintain it until the epoxy sets. Sounds simple until you figure out the specs on the tank of sufficient size that will withstand the tons of atmospheric pressure when you pull 26" of vacuum in it. From what I was able to determine, this will take a substantial financial investment.
 
Mark, it seems to me that the epoxy would be too thick to penetrate throughout the wood and some other material might work better. Cactus Juice is used by pen turners, but I agree this is mainly an academic discussion that is focused on feasibility and not cost.

I have tried epoxy restorations on bathroom fixtures and they are a not very satisfactory option.
 
Mark, it seems to me that the epoxy would be too thick to penetrate throughout the wood and some other material might work better. Cactus Juice is used by pen turners, but I agree this is mainly an academic discussion that is focused on feasibility and not cost.

I have tried epoxy restorations on bathroom fixtures and they are a not very satisfactory option.

Depends on the viscosity of the resin used. A thinner resin with a long-set hardener will infuse through the wood's vascular system quite well when vacuum and pressure are used. From what I could determine it was pricey as you would wind up with your roughed bowl encased in hardened epoxy with a lot of hardened epoxy going to waste during re-turning on the bowl. I was also skeptical of pouring a block of resin that large as the heat and distortion of the cure could easily damage the bowl. At the prices those guys were getting for their coated stuff it was kind of fun to see if I could go them one better.

m
 
Our club had a demo from a company that did 'stabilization' of wood. It is a polymer solution with a thickness, or I should say thinness of gasoline. 0% moisture content, vacuum chamber, then pressure chamber. This gets the solution to totally penetrate the wood. I would only use a piece of wood that has been treated this way. The above mentioned 15 year guarantee is why. Wood and water in wet, then dry situations will fail eventually. I do know that some use heavy poured finishes like bar tops, but I still wouldn't trust it beyond the maybe 15 years.

robo hippy
 
If all she asked was water tight, she doesn't have to do anything. Birdseye is almost always hard maple, and water will not leak out of hard maple. Especially considering how short of time that water stays in a bathroom sink. Would I recommend using a wood bowl for a sink? No way in ##ll. I can't see shaving cream, soap scum, spit, and dirty hands doing much good to a piece of wood. Just think about what a trap looks like in a bathroom sink, YECK!
 
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