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Low RPM grinder, how much to pay?

Joined
May 13, 2005
Messages
171
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111
Location
Charleston SC
I'm having a hard time finding a decent priced low-rpm grinder. I'm used to paying less than $50 for a new 3400 rpm grinder, and so far every grinder I've seen that was low RPM (and that's not many) was nearly $300.

Surely I'm barking up the wrong tree here.
 
Lowe's has a Delta, 1" x 8", variable speed (1740-3300rpm), bench grinder for for about 1/2 that amount.
 
Woodcraft sell a low speed 8" grinder that includes two aluminum oxide 1" wide wheels 80 and 120 grit. The "sale" price is $75
 
I had to replace my grinder last month. In looking around, I noticed that the low speed grinders were about double the cost of the high speed grinders of the same quality.

Since I also was looking to upgrade from a "decent" grinder to a "GOOD" grinder, the slow speed grinders were to expensive to justify getting one. Besides the grinder will be used exclusively for sharpening high speed steel and the only thing lower speed gets you is slower metal removal. :rolleyes:
 
The older Delta model 23-725 runs about $170. It’s was always well liked and weighed about 100#. A number of places still have stock. Delta discontinued this model for the cheaper variable speed model.

Bill
 
I have the woodcraft slow speed grinder Mort mentioned. I think I paid about $90 for it about a year ago. Its a great deal. Immediately throw away the little tool rest thingies though, theyre useless.

With the dollar so weak, the prices of lots of these imported machines are rising more quickly than were used to.

I thought you could draw the temper out of a high speed steel tool on a fast running grinder? I realize its harder to do with HSS than Carbon, but someone please correct me if Im wrong. Ive personally blued HSS tools while being too aggressive with grinding.
 
uniquewoodworld.com said:
I thought you could draw the temper out of a high speed steel tool on a fast running grinder? I realize its harder to do with HSS than Carbon, but someone please correct me if Im wrong. Ive personally blued HSS tools while being too aggressive with grinding.

You can grind HSS to Brite Blue and not effect it much at all, but you must NOT quench it as the rapid cooling will cause cracking in the alloy and the edge can break in use :( Just let it air cool gradually.

Note here that you can wreck a tool on an 1800 rpm machine just as well as you can on a 3450 grinder; it just takes a little bit (but not much) longer.

Mark
 
Well, that all being said I'm gonna scrap the idea of getting a low-rpm grinder, I just can't afford $100+ considering all I am in need of getting. I think I'll just get a harbor freight grinder as a second--- our shop already has a grinder but it's only got a 60ish grit wheel and a buffing wheel, and I want something finer than 60 grit. That, and it' hard mounted all the way across the shop from the lathe and I can't move it without gnashing of teeth.

What grits do you guys recommend for use with the Ellsworth jig?
 
Slow Speed Grinders

High speed vs. slow speed is not the important question here. What are the critical issues are 1) the type of grinding wheels you use, 2) how much pressure you apply when grinding, and 3) keeping the wheels clean.

1) Virtually all lower price grinders come with gray silicon carbide wheels. These wheels are designed to remove large amounts of metal quickly! Great for taking large nicks out of lawn mower blades or cleaning up weld joints. However, this is exactly what you don't want for turning tools. Turning tools are too expense to grind away quickly. Besides, even the finer grit gray silicone carbide wheels do not give a good edge. What are needed are friable aluminum oxide wheels, most are white and some are pink, does not matter. "Friable" means that the grains of aluminum oxide fracture readily exposing fresh, sharp edges of aluminum oxide which do the sharpening. Good grit choices are approximately 60 grit for shaping the tool to the grind you want and a 120 grit for getting and maintining a sharp edge.

2) What "burns" the tool steel is much more a function of how much pressure you apply to the tool against the wheel then the speed of the wheel. I can "burn" a tool on a slow speed grinder almost as quickly as I can on a high speed one. Just apply enough pressure, it'll burn. The only pressure required is the weight of the tool itself. Use your fingers just to guide and rotate it (for curved edge tools) gently on the wheel. You want to see very few sparks. Lots of sparks...too much pressure, back off. This light touch also does not burn, or "blue" the steel. True, HSS will not loose its temper if blued, but the blue appearence just bothers me and says that too much pressure was applied when sharpening. Also, since you are removing extremely small amounts of steel with the light touch approach, your tools will last for a very, very long time.

3) It is very important to keep you wheels clean. Dirty wheels are clogged with metal and prevent clean removal of steel during sharpening. This leads overheating and not a sharp edge. When the wheels get heavy black streak on them, it's time clean. WARNING!!! Do not use a star wheel type wheel desser, they tear up and pit the surface of the wheel something fearce. Use a stone (cheap) or diamond (expensive) type wheel dressed, both of which work well on aluminum oxide wheels. When cleaning your wheels be carefull not to inhale the aluminum oxide dust that is thrown off in the cleaning process, not good for the lungs (same is true for silicon carbide dust). Wear a breathing mask of some sort when cleaning. It is also a good idea to frequently vacuum up the grinding dust around your grinder.

ECONOMICS:
Let's first make the assumption that we are talking about an 8" grider as opposed to a 6" one. The 8" is a better choice for two main reasons. First is that you get less of a hollow grind on the 8" because of the large diameter. Second is that you get far more sharpenings for the useful life of the wheel before it has to be replaced due to wear.

If you were to purchase an inexpensive grinder, say around $50 dollars, it will most assureadly be a high speed one that comes with gray silicon carbide wheels. New 8" aluminum oxide wheels will cost you about $33 each (one 60 grit and one 120 grit), that's $66. Total investment is by this route is approximately $116. Woodcraft has an 8" slow speed grinder which comes with the proper two aluminum oxide wheels (60 grit and 120 grit). The regular selling price of $95 and it is frequenly on sale for $75. Much better deal than above.

Bottom line. If need be, save up and get the proper sharpening equipment. It will give better edges and make your tools last a lot longer.

Peter Toch
 
Peter, your post was quite helpful, especially on the laying out of the costs.

We do use a white wheel of some grit (not the gray meanies) and a diamond dresser. It's just in a bad place, way on the other side of the shop, a l-o-n-g way from the very nice to have dust collector. I generally keep it sucking while I'm turning, especially dry wood.

Anyhow, thanks for the help all!
 
Low Speed Grinders

Glad my comments were of help.

As you pointed out, it's a l-o-n-g way to your grinder. Considering that one needs to retouch-up their tool edges after approximately 5 minutes of turning, it would be very much to your advantage to move your grinder to within one step of your lathe...literally one step. I have my grinder next to my lathe and facing 90 deg. to it. That way when I need to sharpen I only have to turn 90 deg. to be facing the grinder ready to turn it on. Saves steps and time.

As they say, keep a cool tool, Peter Toch
 
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