Looking for a wood branding tool

[Tim Root]

Folks, does anyone use a hot metal brand to mark their work? Is there a source for them that anyone knows? I googled my brains out and can't seem to find anything. I think it would be a nice way to sign my work instead of freehand dremel scratchings. Thanks in advance for any info.

Tim

 

[Joe Greiner]

I think Rockler has something like that, but my paper catalog is buried too deep to check. Google can be awkward if you don't pick the right keywords, or make a slight spelling error.

I've been using a very ordinary woodburning pen lately. A little less elegant than Sam Maloof's, but good enough for my humble efforts.

I tried oven-heated hot type (usually used for foil stamping in bookbinding), but probably wasn't hot enough for satisfactory results, and I didn't gamble on melting the type.

Joe

 

[Tim Root]

I'm hoping to find a brand I can hit with a propane torch for a few seconds and burn the bottom of bowls or whatever with initial and last name. I can check Rockler's website, thanks.

Edit: nailed it at Rockler, thanks!

 

[n7bsn]

Tim, SWMBO gave me one (Rockler I think) a few years ago, and I love it...for FLAT WORK

I can't get the bottoms of my bowls, etc flat enough for it to be worth a thing on them, so I just sign them with a pen, or, more recently, with an ultra-fine wood-burning pencil.

TTFN
Ralph

 

[Tim Root]

I would think you could use a rolling motion while branding on non-flat work, but what do I know! You can be sure I'll be trying it that way at some point too.

 

[john lucas]

If you can find one of the carving magazines they have adds for several different branding irons. I don't need one so I didn't really pay attention to them. These were companies other than Rockler which is why they caught my attention.

 

[Paulloseby]

Handcrafted By Branding Irons in Santa Barbara

Can I suggest http://www.brandnew.net/ in Santa Barbara. As the voltage is different over here in the UK, I had a heat up yourself type signature brand and it is fine. My only disappointment which was entirely my fault, was that I had a BN36 'Swoosh Signature' which is your signature contained within a line 'swooshed' around it. That line tends to be darker than my signature so I ground that off. But it has been perfect other than that. Be sure to check the 'Handcrafted By' label in the left hand menu.

Kindest regards

Paul

 

[Tim L]

Hartville Tools has branding irons as well.
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11286

 

[ScottH]

Woodcraft has them. Both electric and ones you have to heat with a torch... I'd want the electric one. You can order them through the catalog or through a store.

Scott

 

[John King]

Concave?

Tim - If your bowl bottoms are concave, a rolling motion with the branding iron won't do the trick. A straight/flat branding iron will not reach the valley in the concave bottom.

I have the Rockler electric branding iron. It works great on flat work.

I use a PIGMA Micron 08 #1 archival ink pen to sign my bowl bottoms. The ink is waterproof and fade proof. This pen is available at most art supply stores, Michael's Crafts, Hobby Lobby, etc. - John

 

[GeorgeH]

I shopped for one about a year ago but couldn't find anything I was willing to pay the price for. They are EXPENSIVE!! So I made a couple of them out of scrap using some aluminum flat stock I had on hand and a scroll saw to cut it out. It worked pretty well. Just drilled a hole through it and threaded for a 10-32 machine screw to use as a handle, then held it with a pair of pliers.

 

[john lucas]

I looked in my carving magazine this morning and found this. www.steelhandstamps.com Personally I don't like the branding on turnings unless they are really small. I sign mine with a Dremel Engraver. It takes practice to get a neat signature. It's very subtle and doesn't glare at you. If you want the signature to be bolder then I rub gold wax into it.

 

[Grant Wilkinson]

Lee Valley Tools has them. Here is a link to the non-electric ones.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32191&cat=1,41115

 

[GeorgeH]

I looked in my carving magazine this morning and found this. www.steelhandstamps.com

Now there's a quality life-time product; thanks John. I emailed 'em to find out what a special order might cost.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I got an electric one from Woodworker's Supply that I use for flat work, but it definitely won't work on the bottoms of bowls. It is tough enough to apply a good brand on flat work much less something that is curved. Further, if the bottom of the bowl inside the foot area is concave, as it is almost certain to be, a branding iron won't work at all. I prefer an engraver and then fill the etched area with stain. I also have a woodburner with a small sharp tip that could be used, but it takes some practice to do it well.

 

[Odie]

I got an electric one from Woodworker's Supply that I use for flat work, but it definitely won't work on the bottoms of bowls. It is tough enough to apply a good brand on flat work much less something that is curved. Further, if the bottom of the bowl inside the foot area is concave, as it is almost certain to be, a branding iron won't work at all. I prefer an engraver and then fill the etched area with stain. I also have a woodburner with a small sharp tip that could be used, but it takes some practice to do it well.

My experience with branding irons is very similar to boehme......with the exception of what my methods of signing my work has evolved to! A branding iron is difficult to use on just about anything, except flat surfaces......even then, it's easy to not get the iron perfectly level with the wood, causing a brand that looks a bit "haphazard" looking.

For about the past 20yrs, I've been using a woodwriter that I purchased from CSUSA. I believe the newer ones are the same internally, but the externals looks differently these days.

otis of cologne