Longworth chuck at CSUSA

[Odie]

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this new version of Longworth chuck...........?

How is the precision of machining?

There is a video demonstration of this Longworth chuck available, see it here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEJfrO9CJBU&feature=player_embedded

Off hand, it looks like an off-center error is possible/probable, if the eight wingnuts aren't tightened with precise and equal tension.......something that seems easy to err, because the wingnuts are all tightened individually and those silicon red rubber grippers seem pretty soft and spongy to me........I don't know, so you tell me what you think, if you have one of these........😕

Thanks for your input......

ooc

 

[hughie]

It looks well done, but....... they are easy to make and what you save can be spent on what you cant make. 😀

 

[Odie]

I have the Mega Jumbo Jaws for my Oneway Stronghold chucks. The Mega Jumbo Jaws work very well, but they are huge, and I wanted to eliminate that large diameter of spinning metal that isn't needed for most of my turnings.

I decided to order the regular Jumbo Jaws, and call it good! I did just that this evening........

The Jumbo jaws are listed as 11" diameter closed for a 13" swing, and my Mega Jumbo jaws are 14 1/2" closed. (I realize they are now listed as 14" diameter closed for a 16" swing, but I've had these since the early 1990's, and Oneway must have reduced the diameter of the Mega Jumbo jaws since then.)

thanks

ooc

 

[Odie]

It looks well done, but....... they are easy to make and what you save can be spent on what you cant make. 😀

I understand that, hughie.......It's a good suggestion that many turners will opt to take. However, since this represents a re-chuck, it's my feeling that, had I taken this route, I would have preferred to purchase the Longworth chuck for the precision of construction it represents. I couldn't have matched that degree of precision with a home-made constructed Longworth chuck. I would have preferred to pay for the precision, rather than to save a few bucks on something that will need to be as perfect as possible, over a lifetime........😉

One of the reasons I decided against this Longworth chuck, is there will be a loss of accuracy concerning concentricity with the eight loosely fitting mount points that slide within slots, and since the two plates need to freely rotate, there will be a loss with the center bolt holding the chuck mount between the two. The fact that the entire assembly needs to be mounted in another chuck, is an added degree of possible loss of concentricity. Those spongy rubber holders, and eight separate wingnuts that had to be equally tensioned is another point of concern.....as I previously expressed.

With the Stronghold Jumbo plates, there just seemed to be less concern for the accuracy of the re-chuck........and I want the bottoms of my bowls to match the outside walls as perfectly as possible.......concentricity......that's the objective, and the Jumbo plates mounted directly to the chuck slides will do a better job of accomplishing that.......if I can help it, there will be NO compromise on things of this nature. (Or, as little as will be absolutely necessary. I realize this can't be laboratory accurate, or "rocket science at NASA!)

ooc

 

[Joe Greiner]

I've built three Longworth chucks in plywood - two small ones with 4 and 6 bumpers, and a large one with 6. The small one with 4 puts too much concentrated force at the rim, but it can be used for making custom-shape rosettes in square stock. The small ones are threaded onto the spindle. The large one attaches to my scroll chuck with medium jaws in expansion mode (in dovetailed slots). I used cabinet bumpers, shorter and stiffer.

For tightening the bumpers equally, I've found it beneficial to tighten diametrically opposite bumpers in sequential pairs, vs. tightening in circular fashion; similar to the proper way of attaching car wheels. Probably good practice with Jumbo jaws too.

The CSUSA buttons don't seem to have a facility for robust tightening, although the coated tips of the screws resist loss of the wing nuts. I used wire nuts on mine for that purpose. I used headed screws to assist tightening, with slots on the wing nut ends for expansion mode (with undercut rim on the bowl).

I haven't found connection to the scroll chuck troublesome. The same jaws hold a spigot for inside work. With your Jumbo jaws, don't you need to swap jaws?

Regardless of the mounting method, perfectly concentric seems like a futile pursuit, and relies on a perfectly round rim. I try to place the foot ring inboard about 1/8" with a step about 1mm deep, for a floating appearance. Sometimes it's perfectly concentric, sometimes it isn't.

 

[Jim Carroll]

When turning a bowl before turning it around for hollowing I will bring up the pin &ring live centre and mark the centre of the turned base.

Once the inside has been turned and the bowl is turned around you use the mark from the pin & ring centre to locate the bowl central on the longworth chuck or Vicmarc bowl jaws. this eliminates any movement when locking up the jaws.

This makes sure it is running true , I dont use a cone centre as this can move the bowl sideways.

 

[TJ Hamilton]

Jim, in the interest of continued education, mine, what is a pin and ring live center. A quick google search did not help nor did a check of the web site you listed in your post.

Thanks, Tom, in Douglasville, visualizing such a device but not certain.

 

[john lucas]

I assume what he means by pin and ring is what I call a cup center. It has an outer ring with a center pin.
I've never been overly concerned with super accuracy when turning the bottoms. sure it's nice and can be eliminated most of the time using the tailstock aligning method mentioned above.
However when I have mounted a bowl in my jumbo jaws and it's off a hair it has never caused a problem, even on some very thin bowls. about the only problem is blending the outer edge into the other parts of the bowl but usually light sanding does that and now one notices but me.
Most of the time this is caused by warping of the bowl rather than the jaws not fitting perfectly. I agree with the cross tightening method. kind of the same way I tighten lug nuts on a car or tightening head bolts. That should put the same pressure on all the wing nuts.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

My wife surprised me with one for an anniversary present. Didn't really need it, but I'm not complaining. I haven't used it yet. Maybe tomorrow. Seems pretty well made. Spun it in the lathe and didn't notice any issues.

The instructions that come with it stress the importance of cross tightening. Of course, some may not read the instructions....

The buttons are pretty spongy, but I don't think there will be any real issue with centering. It will be nice to not have to keep wrapping the buttons in tape to keep the black marks off my work. That always bugged me about the oneway jumbo jaws.

Ed

 

[Odie]

For tightening the bumpers equally, I've found it beneficial to tighten diametrically opposite bumpers in sequential pairs, vs. tightening in circular fashion; similar to the proper way of attaching car wheels. Probably good practice with Jumbo jaws too.

I haven't found connection to the scroll chuck troublesome. The same jaws hold a spigot for inside work. With your Jumbo jaws, don't you need to swap jaws?

Regardless of the mounting method, perfectly concentric seems like a futile pursuit, and relies on a perfectly round rim. I try to place the foot ring inboard about 1/8" with a step about 1mm deep, for a floating appearance. Sometimes it's perfectly concentric, sometimes it isn't.

Hello Joe.......

Unlike the Longworth method of holding the bowl, the rubber grippers on the Jumbo Jaws do not compress with the amount of tightness of the mount screw, like the Longworth rubber grippers do. They are made with a metal center, sort of like a tire on a rim. Because of this, they do have an advantage where concentricity is a concern.

For my turnings, concentricity is a concern. Since the actual width of the foot is often very narrow and delicate, a small discrepancy is more noticeable. This is why concentricity is an issue for me, whereas it might not be as much so with some other turners. To my way of seeing this, I am ahead of the game by choosing the re-chuck method with the greatest amount of precision from the git-go, rather than to rely on adapting to a holding method that is less so.

The Jumbo Jaws rely on the chuck slides for it's holding ability, rather than compressing eight rubber grippers with equality, as is the case with the Longworth chuck.

Yes, the Jumbo plates, and the Mega Jumbo plates will now have to be swapped out, as the need dictates. The Mega Jumbo plates will now only be needed for my largest turnings. I have three Oneway Stronghold chucks, and one of these was dedicated to the Mega Jumbo plates, but now will be dedicated to two sets of Jumbo plates. Another Stronghold chuck is dedicated to No. 2 jaws and is used for probably 75 percent of all my bowls. The third Oneway Stronghold chuck is the one I use to switch out jaws for all other applications. Originally, I was interested in the Longworth chuck strictly because it would have been easily used with the No. 2 jaws in the dedicated chuck, but the concentricity issues made me change my mind about how well the Longworth chuck is adaptable to my style of turning.

As for concentricity being a futile pursuit, I'd have to agree that perfect precision isn't possible.......but, some methods are distinctly better at achieving concentricity than others.

All these things mentioned here, and in previous posts, are why I made the decision I did....... Of course, this does not mean that what is important to me, is, or should be the concern of other turners, but my decisions are based on my needs.......not an average of all turners as a whole!😀

......good turning to you all!........:cool2:

ooc





.

It will be nice to not have to keep wrapping the buttons in tape to keep the black marks off my work. That always bugged me about the Oneway jumbo jaws.

Ed

Ed.......I've never had a need to wrap the rubber grippers on the Mega Jumbo jaws, and have never had any black marks. I'm not sure what it is that you are doing differently than I am, but obviously there is something that is different. For your needs, the Longworth chuck may be the best method for you......

I hope that what I've expressed in this thread isn't construed as meaning either the Longworth, or the Oneway Jumbo jaws is/are better solutions for all turners, but those things that separate us as individual turners do mean that what, and how we choose our methods are definitely individual considerations.

ooc




.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Hi Odie - Maybe it's the batch of grippers I got with mine. I have the mega jumbos for my stronghold and the mini jumbos (who makes up these names) for my talon. I got them both in 2006. If I don't get tape or paper towel between them and the wood I'm left with black marks on the wood. Maybe 2006 was a bad year for grippers or something.

Doesn't matter how loose or tight I grip the piece. Black marks if the rubber meets the road....err wood.

I do like the jumbo jaws. Don't like having to unscrew and rescrew the grippers so much. But I could live with it. I did live with it.

I'll report back on the CSUSA longworth after I get some time on it.

Ed

 

[Odie]

Hi Odie - Maybe it's the batch of grippers I got with mine. I have the mega jumbos for my stronghold and the mini jumbos (who makes up these names) for my talon. I got them both in 2006. If I don't get tape or paper towel between them and the wood I'm left with black marks on the wood. Maybe 2006 was a bad year for grippers or something.

Doesn't matter how loose or tight I grip the piece. Black marks if the rubber meets the road....err wood.

I do like the jumbo jaws. Don't like having to unscrew and rescrew the grippers so much. But I could live with it. I did live with it.

I'll report back on the CSUSA longworth after I get some time on it.

Ed

Hello again, Ed.........😀

Perhaps there is a difference in rubber composition between your Jumbo grippers, and mine. If so, you may want to order another set and find out. I'm with you on this......couldn't put up with the black marks, or wrapping the grippers.

Although the Longworth chuck is no longer an option up for my consideration, I'm sure I don't speak only for myself in looking forward to your evaluation.

The grippers on the Oneway Jumbo plates don't need to be cranked down tight.....only a light torque is necessary. I took the "T" handle hex wrench supplied with the Stronghold chucks, and inserted the hex shaft into a rubber tube......this makes for a very good finger hold on the hex wrench, and speeds up the change-over from one mount hole to another. Not as fast, or easy, as the Longworth is, but does make adapting to different diameter bowls a little more effortless.

.......let us know how things turn out for you on these things.:cool2:

ooc

 

[Jim Carroll]

Tom as John has indicated the cup centre is the pin & ring centre,

Odie I am like you in trying to get the peice spinning as cleanly as posible to get the best result possible.

I have seen guys use bowl jaws and not worry too much about getting it to run true and finish up with a bowl or form with a base that makes the form not sit properly and the sanding is not the same trying to blend in from the re-turned base

 

[MichaelMouse]

Hi Odie - Maybe it's the batch of grippers I got with mine. I have the mega jumbos for my stronghold and the mini jumbos (who makes up these names) for my talon. I got them both in 2006. If I don't get tape or paper towel between them and the wood I'm left with black marks on the wood.

I do like the jumbo jaws. Don't like having to unscrew and rescrew the grippers so much. But I could live with it. I did live with it.

My set for the Nova had a gap in hold capability that I seemed to hit with distressing regularity - or stupidity - so I got some red heater hose from the auto parts place. Cut it to length and tucked it over the buttons when I ran into the problem at first, then took to leaving them on. You can do the same thing with the clear tubing from the Borg if you have problems with an individual brand. Matter of fact, if you buy some cap screws and standoffs, you can make tall buttons too. Be creative - get a 1/2 dia standoff and a 3/4 above it to get some buttons that will cover the rim to protect against ham-handed work. The tubing is made in several sizes, so no problems making them up. You even have a lathe to chamfer them.

I use an old Yankee screwdriver to speed up the task of moving the buttons.

 

[Odie]

My set for the Nova had a gap in hold capability that I seemed to hit with distressing regularity - or stupidity - so I got some red heater hose from the auto parts place. Cut it to length and tucked it over the buttons when I ran into the problem at first, then took to leaving them on. You can do the same thing with the clear tubing from the Borg if you have problems with an individual brand. Matter of fact, if you buy some cap screws and standoffs, you can make tall buttons too. Be creative - get a 1/2 dia standoff and a 3/4 above it to get some buttons that will cover the rim to protect against ham-handed work. The tubing is made in several sizes, so no problems making them up. You even have a lathe to chamfer them.

I use an old Yankee screwdriver to speed up the task of moving the buttons.

This is some excellent advice, MM.......thanks!

I will remember this when I need to adapt the Oneway Jumbo, and Mega Jumbo Jaws for a special application. This is just one more time I've benefited from input on these forums.....making things better and easier for my own shopwork.

For sake of knowing before hand what hole to use, and all the capacities of my Stronghold chucks with all of the jaws, I've made up a chart that I can refer to at any time......so that when it's necessary, I can prepare for the irrigularities........no surprises!

Say.........I have a couple of those Yankee Screwdrivers! They work fine, but mine are hanging on the shop wall with some other antique tools I've accumulated over the years. Can't remember when or where I got these, but the Yankee Screwdriver is a very ingenious invention from yesteryear! What do you know about these? What years were they produced? I can remember my Dad had a Yankee Screwdriver back in the 1950's......he probably sold that one in one of the garage sales he conducted, but I've inherited some of his other tools......very interesting stuff!

The two Yankee Screwdrivers I have are all the way on the right side of the picture, near the bottom.

ooc

 

[Joe Greiner]

Chart

A chart might be the only salvation for all the apparatus you have (and why am I not surprised about that?!). But for lesser collections, I use dedicated "calipers" for ideal settings. I used 1/8" HDPE, labelled for each jaw set. Thin (1/4") plywood would also be suitable, and color-coded if necessary. For infrequent use, cracker-box cardboard is satisfactory.

 

[Gretch Flo]

Yankee screwdriver

This is some excellent advice, MM.......thanks!


Say.........I have a couple of those Yankee Screwdrivers! They work fine, but mine are hanging on the shop wall with some other antique tools I've accumulated over the years. Can't remember when or where I got these, but the Yankee Screwdriver is a very ingenious invention from yesteryear! What do you know about these? What years were they produced? I can remember my Dad had a Yankee Screwdriver back in the 1950's......he probably sold that one in one of the garage sales he conducted, but I've inherited some of his other tools......very interesting stuff!

The two Yankee Screwdrivers I have are all the way on the right side of the picture, near the bottom.

ooc

Hey Odie-I am a Yankee ( born) but can't visualize from your pics what it really is. Describe? closer pic??? Gretch

 

[MichaelMouse]

http://www.garrettwade.com/improved-yankee-style-screwdrivers/p/08C03.01/

Spiral extend the way you need and push. Lee Valley even sold torx and Robertson drive bits back when.

 

[Odie]

Hey Odie-I am a Yankee ( born) but can't visualize from your pics what it really is. Describe? closer pic??? Gretch

Howdy Gretch Flo........

I ran a quick search for the Yankee Screwdriver, and see the darn thing is still being made today, but under another name......so, just in case you might be interested in getting one of these, it looks like you won't have any problem locating one. Just use your search engine and enter "Yankee Screwdriver", and you'll get plenty of hits!

edit: I see there are plenty of vintage Yankee Screwdrivers on ebay, too! Many of these are much cheaper than I thought they would have been......they must not be as collectible as I had thought. Anyway, I'll bet you could get a good original Yankee for under ten bucks.......

I took this photo off the internet from that search, and my two Yankee screwdrivers are very similar to this one. The shaft has two spiral grooves with a switch lever for drive (clockwise) mode and unscrew (counter-clockwise) mode.....real easy to operate. One just selects the mode and pushes the handle, the bit end turns the screw, but all you do is push on the handle.

Later, lady.......

ooc

 

[Gretch Flo]

Yankee screwdriver

Now I know what the are and was familiar with the push/screw option-just didn't know it's name!!!! Thanks, Gretch

 

[John Lawson]

My father had a tool like that, but the handle was metal and stored drill bits. We called it the "push drill". I still have it, but where it is is a mystery.

 

[Dave Willey]

RMWoodco brand Longsworth Chuck

Hi Odie,

While at the 2011 Utah symposium I saw this demonstrated by the maker and ended up buying a 20" version through Craft Supplies at the show.

Overall I'm glad I bought it. However there is a "gotcha" that everyone needs to be aware of. And it is my own fault for not inquiring further.

VERY well made, and in the USA. Quality of workmanship and material is first rate. The function and movement is as demonstrated in the video. "Top drawer" stuff.

The only "gotcha" (again my fault for not inquiring further), was in the demo it was stated that depending on the model you get there are two different sized steel tenons that are held in the chuck jaws....2.5" and 4" diameter.

The 20" and 24" they recommend a 4". Which makes sense. Bigger turning mass, you would need a bigger support. At the time of the order the customer specifies which mount you want to fit your chuck jaws.

In all fairness the demonstrator did say in the demo that not all 4" chuck jaws will fit the 4" dia. mount on their Longsworth chuck. Seems some chuck manufacturers have a small gap between the 3" and 4" jaw sizes with no overlap, and guess what, that's the rub I found myself in. When I got it several days later from Craft Supplies, it would not fit the 4" jaws I specifically bought at the show for this unit to be used in one of my Nova II chucks.

Being a part time machinist I was P/O at myself enough to think I'll make my own 4.25" mount. And I could have. But the manufacturer has an odd off-center 3 screw mount that in the end really wasn't worth my time to measure out and make. My own fault.

I ended up buying the 2.5" replacement mounting system for about $25 and use that instead.

Now for those who are thinking about getting one of these. Good call. But before you order, measure out a wood disk that is 3.9690" in diameter and see if your 4" jaws will grasp it. If not, you need to order the 2.5" mount.

And as the demonstrator mentioned several times. use your tail stock to center you workpiece in the Longsworth chuck, and NEVER go above 600 RPM 😱. And ALWAYS use the tail stock to keep light pressure against your workpiece as you make your foot. Then just trim off the small remaining nub with a sharp chisel.

The larger diameter Longsworth chucks come with 16 rubber "pins" to help align the larger turnings using the tail stock. For smaller turnings you need to remove eight of the pins to hold smaller diameter pieces. I don't have any problems getting things aligned when rechucking with this to make the foot as almost all my turnings already have a center mark.

Any other questions shoot me a PM.


-Dave

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

My wife got me the 16" version as a gift. I have mixed feelings about it. I will use it, but I don't think I would have bought it myself if I had had the opportunity to take if for a test drive. Here's some brief thoughts (I oneway talon and stronhold chucks and the discussion below uses oneway terminology):

Pros:

It's way easier to use than the mega jumbo or mini jumbo jaws. Well made and works very smoothly.

You can keep a workpiece in the longworth chuck, but remove it from the stronghold/talon to free the chuck up for something else. Can't do that with jumbo jaws.

The soft rubber grippers do not leave marks on the wood and grabbing something that is slightly out of round is not a problem.

Cons:

The longworth is a lot less rigid and the grippers do not grab as strongly as the jumbo jaws. With jumbo jaws I could work on the bottom of a piece without the tailstock using light to medium cuts with no problem. Even light cuts on the longworth require the tailstock.

There is a 1" diameter screwhead / washer on the face of the chuck for the thru bolt that holds on the steel mount. You can not mount a piece that doesn't have an at least a 1" opening in the center. Off center openings and small openings will go back to the jumbo jaws.

The minimum diameter you can hold is limited by the size chuck you are using. The wingnuts used to adjust the grippers have to clear the chuck. You can grab much smaller stuff with the jumbo jaws.

Verdict: Nice, but not necessary. I will use it for the convenience, but that's not enough of a benefit to buy it over the jumbo jaws and certainly not in addition.

All just my opinion.

Ed

 

[Joe Greiner]

How to omit the tailstock

Before (AFAICT) Jumbo Jaws and Longworth chucks were developed, Betty Scarpino (currently editor of the Journal) presented a technique for mounting bowls for finishing the bottom: Mount a plywood disk on a faceplate. Turn a groove to mate with the rim. Set the rim in the groove, and attach the bowl to the plywood disk with several strips of tape (masking and/or filament) wrapped around to the back of the disk, clearing the bottom. See "Lathes and Turning Techniques; the Best of Fine Woodworking," from Taunton Press, ISBN 1-56158-021-X; page 111.

For added security, you can staple the tape to the back of the disk.

You can cut more grooves in the disk for different size bowls, and when no longer usable, use a new piece of plywood.

I still use this for insurance on my Longworths. To facilitate removal of the tape, fold a flap about 1/4" onto itself (a good idea for any removable tape).

With the tailstock far back, or even removed, you have complete freedom to make the bottom a design feature in itself - foot ring for stability, extra mini-grooves, etc.

 

[Odie]

Thanks Dave and Ed.......

The information you have provided here will be useful information to anyone considering buying the Longworth chuck.

For my needs, I've decided to get a set of smaller Jumbo jaws to go with my Mega Jumbo jaws. The only drawback for me will be a need to change over the Jumbo to the Mega Jumbo jaws for my largest bowls. I have a dedicated Stronghold chuck for doing the foot of bowls, so this doesn't represent much extra effort on my part.......

I can live with jaw changes, and after hearing about the need to use a tailstock in conjunction with the Longworth because of a weak hold, I'm convinced that the Jumbo Jaws are the better option......at least, from my viewpoint, they are better, because I want clear and unobstructed access to the bottom of the bowl.

Originally purchased my Mega Jumbo jaws in the early 1990's, and am very comfortable with that method......it has a very strong grip, never needs a tailstock, grippers on mine have never left any black marks. (I have broken one or two bowls in the past, because it's easy to overpower the Jumbo Jaws. You need to develop "feel" for getting the right tension.)

These Jumbo/Mega Jumbo jaws are also rated for 1000rpm, which I consider a great advantage for smoother cutting over the 600rpm limitations of the Longworth chuck. I regularly take mine to somewhere around 1100rpm, and have never had a problem with that.

ooc



--------------------------------------------------------------------

Joe......

That is very similar to the jam-fit chuck. I first became familiar with it in the 1980's, when I studied Richard Raffan like a maniac. I still have his book that came out before the video......looks like it's been through the grinder, all worn out looking and dog-eared! I know the jam fit chuck was not his invention.....been around for a hundred years!

I sure did hate jam fit chucks. They were hard to fit correctly, and you needed to remake them after several uses........Oneway and Longworth are a much much better solution.

Back then, Richard Raffan, Rude Osolnik, Dale Nish, and a few others were heroic figures to me......still young and impressionable in my 30's decade of life.....and me with a $200 garage sale Shopsmith!

ooc

 

[Odie]

On a related note, recently I had a need for expanding jaws to do the bottom of a very small bowl. Neither the Jumbo jaws, nor the Mega Jumbo jaws could go this small in the expand mode........so I made a homemade set!

These are for expand only and will hold small bowls with an inside opening of 2 3/8" to 4". They are to be used in conjunction with the #1 Stronghold tower jaws. Made from 1/4" plywood and 3/4" oak dowel with bits of bicycle innertube for facings. Works well.

I've been working on this project, on and off for a couple of weeks......having to re-think and modify the original plan a couple of times......but, finished them this afternoon.

ooc

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Hi Odie - I have the spigot jaws for both my stronghold and talon chucks. When I needed to holds something small (without marking it) by expanding the jaws, I just put some plastic tubing (took a jaw to home depot to get the right size) over the jaws. Worked fine. No marks and held good.

Your solution looks a lot more elegant, but maybe plastic tubing would be good enough....


Ed

 

[Odie]

Hi Odie - I have the spigot jaws for both my stronghold and talon chucks. When I needed to holds something small (without marking it) by expanding the jaws, I just put some plastic tubing (took a jaw to home depot to get the right size) over the jaws. Worked fine. No marks and held good.

Your solution looks a lot more elegant, but maybe plastic tubing would be good enough....


Ed

Hello Ed.....

I think we are talking about the same jaws here.....and, what I'm calling tower jaws, is the same as what you are referring to as spigot jaws. I see these jaws are offered with plain and ribbed surfaces......there was only ribbed when I got mine. The current CSUSA catalogue is calling them spigot jaws, but I believe the description may have evolved, or been changed over time since I bought mine.

Anyway, that's a good solution, too. I did need a method of extended platform for the base, and what I've done covers that contingency......although I can see where your solution might work well for very tiny openings where mine just can't go that small. Off hand, I believe the bare minimum capacity of these jaws is around 1 3/16" in the expand mode, and my homemade jaws minimum is 2 3/8". If I ever have a need for a non-marring method of holding that small, I will certainly remember your suggestion.

Thanks for the input......

ooc

(edit note: I just went out to the shop to verify my memory of exact dimensions, and I've changed that minimum to 1 3/16" minimum capacity for expanding mode on the #1 tower jaws.........this is what happens when I try to remember specific details! With the addition of your plastic tubing, the dimensions will be slightly larger, but still much smaller than I'm capable of doing with my homemade jaws.)