Long Nose Jaws a good choice for smaller pieces?

[Stephen Blalock]

I have a Record Power SC4 chuck that came with 52 to 72 mm jaws, and face plates. I am looking to have more holding options. The other option is smaller dove tail jaws. All opinions welcome.

link to jaws i am looking at

Record Power, 62323, Long Nose Jaws for the SC3 and SC4 Chuck

Your Source for Woodturning Tools, Chucks, Lathes, Pen Kits and Project Supplies

www.thewoodturningstore.com

 

[hughie]

I have the equivalent [ 75mm long ] on my SN2 125mm dia chuck and its one of my go to sets of jaws. Mainly due to how I turn my hollow vessels, I make the tenon the foot and match to the jaws I'm using. The long jaws allow to me to get in close to the foot for that last bit of sanding or shaping and as I tend to finish the outside down to a preliminary coating of finish before doing the inside this give me good access for that as well.
Yes I think on small pieces they would be good, perhaps how good would depend on what the jaw closure dia is, on the SN2 its 46mm. I do have inserts that will take me down to 36mm, but this range suits me well with what I do.

 

[hockenbery]

I look for jaws that support the work I am doing.

I like the #1 smooth jaws from ONEWAY
Use them a lot to hold finials with 3/4 and 1/2 diameter tenons

Record may have some equivalent

If you do ornaments or other finials these small jaws are worth it.

 

[William Rogers]

The Axminster O’Donnell jaws have served me well. Seems they replace the need for a lot of other jaws. However they only fit the Axminister chucks and that would be an investment.

 

[robo hippy]

I have never been sure what the purpose of those high tower type jaws is. I prefer things to be mounted as close to the headstock as possible. If I was grabbing a long tenon, like maybe for doing a long stemmed chalice/cup, then those might be good. Not too practical, at least for me, otherwise. I do have one extended set that closes down to maybe less than 1/4 inch, and it can grab my sanding mandrills. I have used it for turning small and long finials.

robo hippy

 

[Gary Beasley]

I like long jaws if Im turning bangles, it allows me to work the inside without the worry of hitting the back of the jaws with the gouge.

 

[Stephen Blalock]

I appreciate all the help! I decided to go with the smaller dove tail jaws as they grip smaller recesses, tenon, and square. It becomes clear that needs and wants are near endless in woodturning.

Record Power, 62321, Small Dovetail Jaws for the SC3 and SC4 Chuck

Your Source for Woodturning Tools, Chucks, Lathes, Pen Kits and Project Supplies

www.thewoodturningstore.com

 

[Bill Boehme]

It appears that there is a small dovetail on the long jaws and as Gary said, the long jaws provide extra clearance from the chuck body to work closer to the fooT.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I have those smaller 35mm jaws, use them on a Nova G3 chuck. Very useful for small bowls and HF/vases.

I use a OW Stronghold chuck for medium/larger items, and have their #2 and #3 tower jaws, I think they are ~1” taller than the std jaws. The main reason I got them was for taller end grain HF’s to use a longer tenon with more grip, but I end up up using them for bowls etc just because there’s more room at the bottom for cutting, sanding, applying finish. Theoretically you dont want the wood out further but I havent noticed an issue using them vs std ht jaws.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I appreciate all the help! I decided to go with the smaller dove tail jaws as they grip smaller recesses, tenon, and square. It becomes clear that needs and wants are near endless in woodturning.

Record Power, 62321, Small Dovetail Jaws for the SC3 and SC4 Chuck

Your Source for Woodturning Tools, Chucks, Lathes, Pen Kits and Project Supplies

www.thewoodturningstore.com

Those jaws are only dovetail on the outside. If you use them in compression mode you will want a straight tenon.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I have some deep 75mm and 100mm jaws. I like them but still use a short tenon.