Liquid two part epoxy or two part putty?

[Sam Fleisher]

For the first time I used some alumilite two part epoxy to fill a hole in the bowl I'm working on. I'd like to try some of that milliput two part epoxy putty some day as an inlay.

Since I had some left over alumilite I put it in some cracks of dried rough turned bowls waiting to be turned. I've noticed it's kind of a pain to keep that stuff corralled especially when you weren't ready to apply it where I did. But I assume it makes a better repair being a liquid over the putty?
Will the milliput make an acceptable repair in a crack or should I just plan on being better prepared the next time I use the liquid epoxy and be ready to do something with the leftover before I start?

With the milliput in a crack I was thinking in a small crack it would need to be enlarged so enough would get in hopefully deep enough. And if not after finish turning and a void appeared can you just put more putty in that void?

Then there is the filler question.... Is wood filler putty ever a good fix for a void in a bowl?

I do leave some defects and consider them character but others stand out as just looking out of place which is why I use the mantra of a repair will never be invisible so let it stand out usually in a colorful way.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

If you are filling cracks it is best to wait till bowl is dry. Reason is as the wood dries those cracks expand and when you return the fill flys out. DAMHIK.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

If you are filling cracks it is best to wait till bowl is dry. Reason is as the wood dries those cracks expand and when you return the fill flys out. DAMHIK.

These are dry bowls that have been rough turned. Some have cracks that developed. The newest were rough turned at least over a year ago. Some are five years old.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I have not used Milli Put but I think any epoxy allows you to add more if needed and instructions for deep voids say to layer the fill. I have used Clearcast over an inlay and had to go back and add some . The whole fill was crystal clear. Have not done a large void but I think casting would be best.

 

[john lucas]

Milliput is good. A little difficult to get into really thin cracks. I find dampening the woid helps it stick while you are forcing it in. The nice thing about milliput because uts thick is you can fill a crack or void on the edge of a platter for example. Next to impossible to build a dam for liquid epoxy for something like that.

 

[Steve Bonny]

You can vary the viscosity of the epoxy with fillers. I've used wood dust from the bowl, contrasting wood dust, coloured chalk powder and cabosil. You can also add dyes with cabosil to add colour. If you go for a peanut butter type consistency you can cram it into gaps without it running away.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

You can vary the viscosity of the epoxy with fillers. I've used wood dust from the bowl, contrasting wood dust, coloured chalk powder and cabosil. You can also add dyes with cabosil to add colour. If you go for a peanut butter type consistency you can cram it into gaps without it running away.

I wondered about that but I didn't know if it would still set up like it was supposed to. All I put in it was some mica powder for color. Also is it still viable if you are moving it around after it starts getting thicker on it's own?

 

[Steve Bonny]

I wondered about that but I didn't know if it would still set up like it was supposed to. All I put in it was some mica powder for color. Also is it still viable if you are moving it around after it starts getting thicker on it's own?

Hmmm, I'm no epoxy expert, but I would say you are at risk if you are using it while it is clearly in the process of setting up. I think you may be at risk of it not sticking to the wood properly.

 

[Steve Bonny]

I'll add that some epoxy manufacturers cunningly sell sawdust to woodworkers for this purpose!!! Kudos to their marketing departments for pulling this off!!

 

[Chris Lawrence]

I use 5 minute 2 part epoxy to fill small cracks and voids. I use it to make inlays with copper and brass powder as well. I have mixed up to equal parts of the epoxy and powder with no issues. It acts like a thin putty at that point. You can spread it in but its not thick enough to stay put on vertical surfaces. I just run my lathe as slow as it will go until it sets and it stays in the inlay.

 

[robo hippy]

For reasons unknown to me, the big box stores all seem to have only the 5 minute 2 part epoxies. I still go with the 30 minute ones. They flow better.

robo hippy

 

[Wally Crawford]

I used this distributer- Jamestown Distributors <info@jamestowndistributors.com> and called their customer service department explaining my needs for epoxy. They were great and recommended a slow setting epoxy that penetrates into the smallest of cracks but still sets up within hours. I usually color my epoxy in whatever I think will look best and will certainly purchase more product from these folks.

 

[Randy Anderson]

I use JB Weld 2 part epoxy with mica powder or a bit of sawdust for fills and it works well. Challenge is you have to be prepared and quick.

I've tried milliput, still have some, but the limited color choices make it not a good option most times. I've tried adding color to it but it's tough to do consistently and get the color you want. My hands hurt by the time I'm done trying to blend it and work it all in.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I'm no epoxy expert, either, but if one is trying to stabilize a crack, rather than just fill it, I don't think putty is nearly as strong as liquid.

 

[Ron Solfest]

I used this distributer- Jamestown Distributors <info@jamestowndistributors.com> and called their customer service department explaining my needs for epoxy. They were great and recommended a slow setting epoxy that penetrates into the smallest of cracks but still sets up within hours. I usually color my epoxy in whatever I think will look best and will certainly purchase more product from these folks.

I bought epoxy from them 30yrs ago when I built a cedar strip canoe. Many boatbuilders use them. They have lots of expertise and options.

 

[Erik Christensen]

I use about 50-75 gallons of epoxy a year for crack repairs and making blanks for bowls, pepper mills, etc. I am not claiming to be an expert but I do have a lot of experience with epoxy. With rare exceptions, all my epoxy use is with slow-set - 50-60 minute pot life @ 75 deg.

Most of the crack repairs are on twice turned bowl blanks. If the crack is big enough to have structural concerns figure out how to make an epoxy barrier (clear packing tape with hot melt glue on the edges works for me) so you can fill the void/crack with epoxy - the slow set lets it penetrate and tie things together. Have repaired many dozen bowls this way and nothing has ever come apart on the lathe.

Smaller cracks, that are either not structural or don't show up till turned to final shape, can be easily filled with epoxy that you can color any way you want. There are a number of fillers made specifically to thicken epoxy (I use West Systems 404 filler) from thin (boat builders use it to flair/smooth fiberglass layups) to thick for making epoxy like drywall compound. You can squeegee it into thin cracks or fill big holes. Color with dyes made for epoxy and/or add pearlescent powders.

bowl with cosmetic cracks filled.....

and complete

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I ordered some cabosil and it was delivered today. I had to check to see if the container was empty. That stuff doesn't weigh anything.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

When I was building my vacuum chucks I used 5 minute epoxy to hold the bearings in them. I'm in the process of building a big disc vacuum chuck now. Would I get similar results with slow cure alumilite mixed with some cabosil to a thicker consistency? Adhesive wise?
My thinking is it would stay in place better and not run everywhere before it cured.

Yay or Nay?

 

[Steve Bonny]

When I was building my vacuum chucks I used 5 minute epoxy to hold the bearings in them. I'm in the process of building a big disc vacuum chuck now. Would I get similar results with slow cure alumilite mixed with some cabosil to a thicker consistency? Adhesive wise?
My thinking is it would stay in place better and not run everywhere before it cured.

Yay or Nay?

5 min epoxies vary quite a bit in how thick they are. You can buy thickened versions or you can mix cabosil with 5 min epoxy. You can also add cabosil to low viscosity slow cure epoxies like alumilite to thicken them. Cabosil is designed to turn low viscosity epoxy into an adhesive. You should end up in about the same place however you do it.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

My next question.... is this mess. It's a candidate for epoxy in the future but what should I do with it now? I usually coat with wax sealer then set aside to dry. I'm guessing since the cracks are already there I don't want to get the anchorseal down inside them. So, leave as is and let it go nuts to have even more color later? Bag it? Or will that even do anything.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

5 min epoxies vary quite a bit in how thick they are. You can buy thickened versions or you can mix cabosil with 5 min epoxy. You can also add cabosil to low viscosity slow cure epoxies like alumilite to thicken them. Cabosil is designed to turn low viscosity epoxy into an adhesive. You should end up in about the same place however you do it.

So the different epoxy resin is basically the same unless you get into the polyester resins? Newbie here remember.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Cabosil is designed to turn low viscosity epoxy into an adhesive.

Steve, I'm confused. Are you saying low viscosity epoxy is not an adhesive until Cabosil is added?

 

[Steve Bonny]

Steve, I'm confused. Are you saying low viscosity epoxy is not an adhesive until Cabosil is added?

Only in that it is often too thin, depending on how you are using it. Most of my experience is from wooden boat building using laminating epoxy. You use it straight out the can for laminating, add cabosil if you want to glue pieces of wood together and add saw dust if you want to use it for filling or fillets on joints.
Cabosil should also strengthen the epoxy, like adding fibers to concrete it helps to prevent brittle cracks etc.

 

[Steve Bonny]

So the different epoxy resin is basically the same unless you get into the polyester resins? Newbie here remember.

Hmmm, getting beyond what I know! I always think at a high level that is true, but the epoxy suppliers all have a bunch of different formulas for different applications. I think it is worth reading the blurb on their web sites to get a feel for it. I forget how this thread started. I think it was how to fill a hole or crack. I would think any kind of epoxy would work for that using fillers / dyed as needed.

 

[Sam Fleisher]

I'll add that some epoxy manufacturers cunningly sell sawdust to woodworkers for this purpose!!! Kudos to their marketing departments for pulling this off!!

That would be the "wood flour" I saw for sale in the woodcraft mag in the epoxy section?

 

[Steve Bonny]

That would be the "wood flour" I saw for sale in the woodcraft mag in the epoxy section?

Yup. Wood flour = sanding dust. Easiest way i've found to collect it is to temporarily hook up my disc sander to a shop vac. Sieving dust collector contents is messy but possible too!
I've also used chunkier stuff which works fine for filling holes etc, you just get a rougher surface you may have to deal with and more voids that may need a second coat of epoxy after turning.

 

[Russ Braun]

My wife did bust me using her coffee bean grinder grinding up small pieces of hardwood trying to make sawdust. It did not grind very fine but it did make some nicely colored wood grinds. For some reason, I cannot find that grinder in the kitchen any more, lol!!

 

[Marc Banka]

My next question.... is this mess. It's a candidate for epoxy in the future but what should I do with it now? I usually coat with wax sealer then set aside to dry. I'm guessing since the cracks are already there I don't want to get the anchorseal down inside them. So, leave as is and let it go nuts to have even more color later? Bag it? Or will that even do anything.

I would first treat those cracks with ca glue, the thin, to prevent the cracks from running.
Then a light coat of anchorseal, just enough to stick a blue shop paper towel patch over the area. Coat the entire piece with anchorseal and put away.