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I need information about the type light that can be extended into the hollow vessel. This is also used by some turners who turn hats.
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light for thin walled hollow forms
- Thread starter Charlie Smith
- Start date
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I use a 12 volt taillight bulb. You can buy the sockets and lamps at automotive stores. I learned this from Frank Sudol. These lights take the abuse of vibrations that exist when you attach them to a boring bar. I hooked a 12 volt transformer up to it with some mini jacks from radio shack.
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Inspection lights. Auto parts stores, Radio Shack, probably even Wally World. What you want to avoid if you're going to attach them to the tool itself is one with a filament. Though automotive types are well strung and supported, a big whack on a hot piece of thin wire is going to cause failure. Ask the guy who recently dropped the last photoflood light he had. Of course it was Late Saturday, with a Monday deadline to boot.
LED types should be a good choice. I've dropped my pupil-flasher many times, even after it's been on, held in my teeth for a while while they "get some light over here!" Standard bulbs flashed dead with that kind of treatment.
LED types should be a good choice. I've dropped my pupil-flasher many times, even after it's been on, held in my teeth for a while while they "get some light over here!" Standard bulbs flashed dead with that kind of treatment.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I think the automotive lights do have filaments but they are very tough. Think about the last time you hit a pot hole. They didn't break then. I've used this light a bunch of times with no problems. Frank said he tried a lot of different bulbs in his classes and these worked the best. The new LED lights will probably work but I don't think they are as bright as these tail light bulbs. The ones I'm talking about are push in types not screw in. If I remember I'll look up what I got tonight when I get home.
By the way Photo lamps have really weak filaments. I can just bump into them when moving them and break them. I always turn them off before I move the lamp in the studio to keep from burning out the bulb. The quartz work lights are much tougher but still break when knocked around.
By the way Photo lamps have really weak filaments. I can just bump into them when moving them and break them. I always turn them off before I move the lamp in the studio to keep from burning out the bulb. The quartz work lights are much tougher but still break when knocked around.
Charlie,
I was in a hurry earlier and didn't have time to offer this info.
The bottom line on this subject is learn to turn by feel and don't rely on the light. What will you do when you're working through a 3/4" opening?
I often close my eyes when turning hollow forms to force myself to feel the surface. I do not use a light attached to my tools but I do stop the lathe often and peek inside with a mini mag light. At the same time check wall thickness with calipers.
You can also make or purchase various types of thickness gauges, stabilization systems and laser guides. But none of these tools will develop your skills like freehand blind turning.
I was in a hurry earlier and didn't have time to offer this info.
The bottom line on this subject is learn to turn by feel and don't rely on the light. What will you do when you're working through a 3/4" opening?
I often close my eyes when turning hollow forms to force myself to feel the surface. I do not use a light attached to my tools but I do stop the lathe often and peek inside with a mini mag light. At the same time check wall thickness with calipers.
You can also make or purchase various types of thickness gauges, stabilization systems and laser guides. But none of these tools will develop your skills like freehand blind turning.
Personally, as nice as a light is in big forms, I'm with Ed here. I find a light touch with the tool and a good visualization will usually tell me what's going on inside pretty well. The thought of trying to hollow while looking inside in the midst of the shaving storm gives me the jitters. Too likely to move the tool and catch. Gotta vacume every few minutes anyway so why not look then?
dietrich
dietrich
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I thought the light was used as a continuous how-goes-it. The amount of light coming through indicating wall thickness. Why look inside if you've got calipers for static checks.
Nice thoughts on filaments for autos, but I'll say that springs and shocks cushion a pothole a lot better than a tool handle can cushion an iron toolrest. High-output types like floods are, of course very vulnerable.
Nice thoughts on filaments for autos, but I'll say that springs and shocks cushion a pothole a lot better than a tool handle can cushion an iron toolrest. High-output types like floods are, of course very vulnerable.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
The light does stay on the whole time your hollowing and you can tell the thickness of the walls. You turn one area to the thickness that you want and then you will see the color. The rest of the piece will be a darker color. You simply cut away wood until all the colors match. It works really well. You can easily turn through a hole only slightly larger than the hole your boring bar will go through. The lamp is pretty small.
I've also used a lazer guide which works on darker woods. The lazer pointer goes on the outside and leaves a dot where the tip of the tool is. Or you can set the lazer to a known distance. You do have to adjust the lazer so it makes a line between the dot and the cutter that is perpendicular to the side of the vessel or you will get an inaccurate reading.
I've also used a lazer guide which works on darker woods. The lazer pointer goes on the outside and leaves a dot where the tip of the tool is. Or you can set the lazer to a known distance. You do have to adjust the lazer so it makes a line between the dot and the cutter that is perpendicular to the side of the vessel or you will get an inaccurate reading.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
The demo I saw Frank Sudal use the tail light - he used a 12v light hooked to a 24v electrical source. Made for a brighter light and therefore he could see through thicker wood. The bulb did not last as long - but the effect was impressive. It is always a great joy to watch Frank turn wood anyway. Laughs and has a great time.
Hugh
Hugh
light
I find that sometimes a false reading is possible when using light inside hollow-form, when turning green wood and some chips stick to inside walls, or wood is of various densities and color to begin with. I use the "snap of the finger" and go by the various tones.. snap over parts of the work, lathe on or off..the lower the tone the thicker the wood. This has worked very well for me for years. Just takes a bit of practice.
I find that sometimes a false reading is possible when using light inside hollow-form, when turning green wood and some chips stick to inside walls, or wood is of various densities and color to begin with. I use the "snap of the finger" and go by the various tones.. snap over parts of the work, lathe on or off..the lower the tone the thicker the wood. This has worked very well for me for years. Just takes a bit of practice.