Lathe Spindle Bearings Jet 1642

[Jim Chrisawn]

I recently needed to replace the spindle bearings in my Jet 1642 and as I looked for information I wasn't able to find much on replacing them and the details of the process. So I tackled the project and decided to make a YouTube video of the process. It's not a professional video, but maybe it will help someone else tackle what really isn't a difficult project.

here is the link to the revised videos. Thank you to those who viewed and shared ways they could be improved.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdFaZ0aX47HDJ4U5XoxFH7g

 

[Robert Taylor]

spindle bearings

This video should be removed from youtube before someone thinks you should install bearings in this manner. I know his intentions were good but you should never tap a bearing in place by tapping with a hammer on the outer race, soft faced or not. He should use a pipe that fits on the inner race. He might as well install new bearings in his lathe as he will wonder why these did not last very long.

 

[Jim Chrisawn]

This video should be removed from youtube before someone thinks you should install bearings in this manner. I know his intentions were good but you should never tap a bearing in place by tapping with a hammer on the outer race, soft faced or not. He should use a pipe that fits on the inner race. He might as well install new bearings in his lathe as he will wonder why these did not last very long.

Robert
Thank you for the video critique. Your point is very valid and I may go back and edit that part of the video to show a different method of installing the bearings. The bearings actually don't take much pressure to install at all and usually fall right into place, but it seems, at least for me, when I'm doing something new (making a video in this case) things don't work as smoothly as usual. Your point is valid and thanks for your letting me know. Jim

Robert I have updated the video to correct the bearing install.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Something that I have done for spindles and idler shafts is to put the part in the deep freezer for a couple hours so that it will shrink a few millionths of an inch in diameter. That is usually enough to allow a bearing to slip on effortlessly. Be forewarned to work fast and smoothly. The bearing and shaft will equalize in temperature very quickly and if you pause with the bearing cocked slightly, you could wind up with the bearing jammed and possibly scuffing the precision machined surface of the spindle/shaft. I wouldn't heat the bearing to expand the ID unless the datasheet says that it is OK. Too much heating can cause the oil to separate from the soap in the bearing grease.

When removing a bearing or installing a new one, as mentioned, never push on the wrong part of the bearing or you will certainly brinell the bearing raceway. Even when applying force to the correct part of the bearing, never hammer it on because that is a guaranteed way to scuff up a precision surface. Use a bit of light oil and press (or pull if removing) the bearing in place. Your tool for pulling or pressing needs to be accurate enough to keep the bearing perpendicular to the shaft to prevent the possibility of scuffing.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I recently needed to replace the spindle bearings in my Jet 1642 and as I looked for information I wasn't able to find much on replacing them and the details of the process. So I tackled the project and decided to make a YouTube video of the process. It's not a professional video, but maybe it will help someone else tackle what really isn't a difficult project.



https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdFaZ0aX47HDJ4U5XoxFH7g

I would like to correct some information egarding the difference between rubber seals and metal [sic] "seals". The rubber provides an interlocking labyrinth seal that keeps the grease in the bearing better protected from fine dust. What you incorrectly called metal "seals" are actually "shields". They are better than open bearing when used in a dusty environment, but they do not provide the same level of protection that the rubber seals provide. The amount of friction in the rubber seal in a standard bearing such as you show is trivial as long as the bearing is operated within the speed range that it is rated. For a woodturning lathe that is not a problem. After a brief wear-in the slight amount of friction will be reduced further. The amount of heating is inconsequential. Much more heat is generated as a result of loading from radial and axial forces. And, I would guess that the temperature rise is about equal for both types. But, because of th e dusty environment, I would opt for rubber seal bearings. The metal shielded bearing are lower cost and that is why many lower cost lathes come with them.

 

[Jim Chrisawn]

I would like to correct some information egarding the difference between rubber seals and metal [sic] "seals". The rubber provides an interlocking labyrinth seal that keeps the grease in the bearing better protected from fine dust. What you incorrectly called metal "seals" are actually "shields". They are better than open bearing when used in a dusty environment, but they do not provide the same level of protection that the rubber seals provide. The amount of friction in the rubber seal in a standard bearing such as you show is trivial as long as the bearing is operated within the speed range that it is rated. For a woodturning lathe that is not a problem. After a brief wear-in the slight amount of friction will be reduced further. The amount of heating is inconsequential. Much more heat is generated as a result of loading from radial and axial forces. And, I would guess that the temperature rise is about equal for both types. But, because of th e dusty environment, I would opt for rubber seal bearings. The metal shielded bearing are lower cost and that is why many lower cost lathes come with them.

Thank you Bil
I'm not someone who cannot learn as I go and this is one of the reasons I decided to join the forum. Your points are very valid and appreciated. I am modifying the part one of the series and will be correcting a few things that both you and Robert have pointed out and that I have noticed as I reviewed the video myself. I tried to upload the new part one today however the internet connection here kept me from doing so. I hope to upload it tomorrow. It is my hope and intent to offer some help on this as it seems good information is not so easy to come by and those that do know sometimes keep it to themselves or fear the process of critique, correction, and revision. I learned a long time ago arrogance and pride will keep one from learning and growing in all of ones endeavors. Those who never make mistakes are the ones who never do anything new by which we learn.
Thank you again for sharing.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Thank you Bil
I'm not someone who cannot learn as I go and this is one of the reasons I decided to join the forum. Your points are very valid and appreciated. I am modifying the part one of the series and will be correcting a few things that both you and Robert have pointed out and that I have noticed as I reviewed the video myself. I tried to upload the new part one today however the internet connection here kept me from doing so. I hope to upload it tomorrow. It is my hope and intent to offer some help on this as it seems good information is not so easy to come by and those that do know sometimes keep it to themselves or fear the process of critique, correction, and revision. I learned a long time ago arrogance and pride will keep one from learning and growing in all of ones endeavors. Those who never make mistakes are the ones who never do anything new by which we learn.
Thank you again for sharing.

I should have mentioned that I think that your video quality is excellent and that the level of detail and well paced presentation make your tutorial an excellent resource for others who want to do their own bearing replacement. I sort of skipped through things, but I plan to go through the whole thing now that the Downton Abby Finale is over.

Most woodturners don't come from a machinist/mechanic/engineering background so I think that it is important that in addition to teaching how to do something, when there is a valid reason, it is also important to give the reason why it is important. Your description of assembling the spindle back together is a very good example of doing this. I liked the fact that you stressed the importance of not over tightening the nut on t he handwheel side when removing axial free play in the spindle.

You are absolutely right about those who never make mistakes. A lot of the "right way" to do things that I learned came from doing things the wrong way. And, yes I have ruined a few bearings and spindles as a part of my "education".

 

[Jamie Straw]

Wonderful world of YouTube

Thank you Bil
I'm not someone who cannot learn as I go and this is one of the reasons I decided to join the forum. Your points are very valid and appreciated. I am modifying the part one of the series and will be correcting a few things that both you and Robert have pointed out and that I have noticed as I reviewed the video myself. I tried to upload the new part one today however the internet connection here kept me from doing so. I hope to upload it tomorrow. It is my hope and intent to offer some help on this as it seems good information is not so easy to come by and those that do know sometimes keep it to themselves or fear the process of critique, correction, and revision. I learned a long time ago arrogance and pride will keep one from learning and growing in all of ones endeavors. Those who never make mistakes are the ones who never do anything new by which we learn.
Thank you again for sharing.

Kudos to you, Jim, for investing your time and energy in this project, and being willing to go back and improve the video where it needs to be changed. Welcome to the world of uploading to YouTube and its accompanying frustrations. One thing I used to do with videos that were intended to be public was to make them "Unlisted" -- that way I could have them reviewed if need be (only people with the URL can view an Unlisted video). Later, I could change them back to "Public." At any time, if you want to shield the video from a search, you can make it "Unlisted" and reclassify it after you've edited it. [apologies if this is info you already knew]

 

[Jim Chrisawn]

Kudos to you, Jim, for investing your time and energy in this project, and being willing to go back and improve the video where it needs to be changed. Welcome to the world of uploading to YouTube and its accompanying frustrations. One thing I used to do with videos that were intended to be public was to make them "Unlisted" -- that way I could have them reviewed if need be (only people with the URL can view an Unlisted video). Later, I could change them back to "Public." At any time, if you want to shield the video from a search, you can make it "Unlisted" and reclassify it after you've edited it. [apologies if this is info you already knew]

Thank you Jamie
This is indeed good information that I did not know. I am completely new to posting videos. I want to try to help others and I also want the information to be as correct as I know how to share it. I know that my way and ideas might not always align with others knowledge and experience and from this I learn and grow. Thank you! Jim

 

[Jamie Straw]

Thank you Jamie
This is indeed good information that I did not know. I am completely new to posting videos. I want to try to help others and I also want the information to be as correct as I know how to share it. I know that my way and ideas might not always align with others knowledge and experience and from this I learn and grow. Thank you! Jim

Glad I could help. Back when I was training horses, I also did a few hundred hours of video for various clinics, and a handful of sales videos. There are dents in our walls from me pounding my head in frustration with the process (mostly the actual video editing and rendering). I found that when questions specifically related to YouTube came up, Googling the problem was much faster than trying to find the answer at the YT site. If I can help in any way, shoot me a private message, I'll see what I can do. Have fun!

 

[Jim Chrisawn]

New videos posted

I have attached the link to the revised spindle bearings replacement videos. After listening to some suggestions from viewers and members of this site I went back and totally revised Part 1 of the series.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdFaZ0aX47HDJ4U5XoxFH7g

I'm not a professional videographer, however I hope this helps someone.

 

[Jim Chrisawn]

This video should be removed from youtube before someone thinks you should install bearings in this manner. I know his intentions were good but you should never tap a bearing in place by tapping with a hammer on the outer race, soft faced or not. He should use a pipe that fits on the inner race. He might as well install new bearings in his lathe as he will wonder why these did not last very long.

Robert I listened and revised the video.

 

[Jay Mullins]

Jim,

I enjoyed your informative and well documented video. Thanks for taking the time and putting forth the effort to help the rest of us that have not had the need to make this repair thus far. Sooner or later we will need to replace the bearings and we will have some insight of what's involved.

It is wonderful to see woodturners stepping up to the plate to help each other and to offer assistance when they can.

Thanks again for sharing.

Jay Mullins