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lathe bed rust

P

Philip Peak

Joined
Feb 18, 2023
Messages
21
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8
Location
Indianapolis IN
I finally got my 3520A working again but looking at it, the lathe bed is covered in rust. I live in a high humidity climate with lots of rain. What do you all use to clean your lathe beds and to keep the rest to a minimum?
 
Been wiping the lathe bed, chucks, tools, and other parts with Boeshield T-9 since the day it came out of packaging. I live in a very wet, humid climate and no issues with rust. As to how to remove rust that has already occurred I am curious to see what others say. When I get glue or resin on the lathe bed I polish with 0000 steel wool. Edited: A quick search of the forum for "rust" turned up some helpful threads.
 
I’m sure you’ll find a lot of helpful threads/advice, but I’ll throw in my two cents. I’ve had a lot of luck with a green scrotchbrite pad and some paste wax. Reapply as necessary, and keep scrubbing. It ultimately comes down to some solid elbow grease, but works well.
 
I, too, live in a wet area, down very near sea level, close to salt water. I use Boeshield T-9 on all tops in the shop (my lathe has Stainless Steel ways), so that means the bandsaw, table saw and jointer (yes, I still do a very little flat work once in a while) I’ve had no problems with rust on any equipment. I treat them with Boeshield once a year at the most, and throw on a coat of paste wax every now and then.
 
JeffSmith said:
I, too, live in a wet area, down very near sea level, close to salt water. I use Boeshield T-9 on all tops in the shop (my lathe has Stainless Steel ways), so that means the bandsaw, table saw and jointer (yes, I still do a very little flat work once in a while) I’ve had no problems with rust on any equipment. I treat them with Boeshield once a year at the most, and throw on a coat of paste wax every now and then.
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You are not far from me Jeff. The T-9 is good stuff.
 
I no longer have lathe bed rust with the Robust. When I had lathes with cast iron or steel i tried various protections like Bioshield and WD40, but always comes back to my standard Johnson’s paste wax. I use it on lathe ways and all my metal tables and components. I have been using the same can for a number of years. The price sticker on it says $5.50 from ace. I have 1/3 of a can that will last me several more years. When it is gone I’ll have to switch to som e other wax since Johnsons is no longer being made and I surly won’t pay $89 a can listed on Amazon.
 
I've been keeping automatic transmission fluid in a peanut butter jar with a brush in it. Every now and then I blow dust/chips off, lay on a coat of it until the next time I'm in the shop. It doesn't stink, it wipes off easily, and has really helped prevent rust. I flip my banjo and slop it up in there ass well. Often while I have it out, I do my table saw, band saw, jointer, and planer beds.
 
I spray with WD40 and then put johnson's pastewax on the wet WD40. Rub the two in together. The combo dries overnight. I put on all my equipment. Wipe it off when using the machine for any fine finish work. Just leave it in place if simply cutting a few pieces for jigs and such. My shop is very humid. My machines will rust quickly if I don't treat them. Using the WD/wax combo, no rust has ever formed. I use the same rag, stored in the wax can. Over time the rag has become oily, and so has the wax. That's OK. It's main purpose is my machines and an occasional squeaky hinge or thing. Johnson's is great stuff. They quit making it. So now you have to pay exorbitant prices for remaining stock, or switch to Minwax. I suspect the Minwax is nearly identical, at least in function.
 
I've gotta try the WD-40 mixed with Johnson paste-wax. I just cleaned off the green cherry stained ways of my cast iron 3520 with my usual mineral spirits on 0000steel wool, applied with a lot of elbow grease followed by Johnson paste wax buffed in. Just keep the ways cleaned and lubricated, however you do it.
 
Years ago I purchased a Jet jointer from a lady, husband had passed, tables were very rusty but not pitted. Maroon scotch brite, WD-40, thrift shop RO sander, the only work was wiping the black residue off (paper towels) after each pass with the RO sander. Tables were shiny, then top coated with Johnson's Paste wax
 
Philip Peak said:
I finally got my 3520A working again but looking at it, the lathe bed is covered in rust. I live in a high humidity climate with lots of rain. What do you all use to clean your lathe beds and to keep the rest to a minimum?
Click to expand...
I use simple green, and a green scrubby to clean the ways and bottom of the banjo, when I'm done turning for the day. Especially if I am turning green cherry, whose sap is sticky and looks like rust. After cleaning, I spray with WD-40, and let it dry. I have also used top coat with equal success, but WD-40 is easier to use.
 
When I sold my 3520A, the bed had a nice black patina to it. Never saw orange rust on it. Never applied any substances to it other than Glide Cote, which is a surface treatment for cast iron table tops, like the table saw and planers and jointers.

robo hippy
 
I generally follow the green scotchbrite and a little elbow grease approach on my 3520A. However, in addition to T-9, Boeshield makes a rust remover called "Rust Free". It has an acrid aroma and probably is harmful to something important, but the darned stuff is fantastic and I have to admit to using it every once in a while. Spray a little on, wipe it around with a paper towel, wipe again until dry, and Bam! Rust Free, like the label says.

Curiously, for protection and glide, I've used both Boeshield T-9 and Johnson's Paste Wax, and find they work about the same, with the paste wax much cheaper.
 
From Johnson Wax Co the ingredients for the wax. No proportions given here just the stuff inside. Nothing esoteric just a basic mixture of 3 waxes and a solvent that is not to good for you.

: SC Johnson

whatsinsidescjohnson.com whatsinsidescjohnson.com

Stu

edit: Deodorized Naphtha or Stoddard solvent is the nasty stuff and that is why it probably was discontinued.
 
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I’ve been using Minwax Paste Wax, and it works perfectly fine. Someone here recommended it, but I can’t remember who. I bought it because Johnson’s is currently artificially inflated due to supply issues. I suspect the formulas of the two are pretty similar. And as a bonus, it’s a nice finish for a decorative item. (There’s always a good excuse to show a finished piece lol :p )

AD26F26C-9E45-4FEA-84DC-556AC4E6BC51.jpeg
 
You’re right Gerald. I thought SCJ was just reformulating, but it does appear to be discontinued. Too bad. I just googled and there are cans listed for 100+, whether they’re selling it not. Wild :oops:
 
I use carnauba wax on precision surfaces in the shop. Works much better for me than Johnson's ever did.

 
Gerald Lawrence said:
Johnson's paste wax was totally discontinued not just short supply. I could see it going to 100 if you have a can in OEM condition ;)
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Reminds me of what happened when Homer Formby's Tung Oil was discontinued a few years ago. Oh, well, that's about when I discovered TruOil, and I know I and others will figure out a good replacement when our dwindling cans of Johnson are gone.
 
I have been using Butcher's Bowling Alley wax for a number of years. They don't list ingredients, but smells like turpentine, and I believe the wax is carnuba. Kiwi neutral shoe polish is turpentine and carnuba was also.

robo hippy
 
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