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Lamp in delta grinder

E

Ed Jarvis

Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
151
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15
Location
Abilene, Texas
My lamp switch died in my Delta 23-725 grinder. To get the lampholder with the switch you buy the entire gooseneck for 31+ postage. Is there any thing sacred about the porclain switch. if I had it my way I would wire the light to the on off switch that runs the grinder. any suggestions?

ED
 
jarvis89 said:
My lamp switch died in my Delta 23-725 grinder. To get the lampholder with the switch you buy the entire gooseneck for 31+ postage. Is there any thing sacred about the porclain switch. if I had it my way I would wire the light to the on off switch that runs the grinder. any suggestions?

ED
Click to expand...

No problem. I've wired in several replacement switches on lamps in my shop. Just bypass the old switch and put another one in-line.

This may look a bit crude, but here's a pic of a lamp switch that replaced an old original switch that stopped working. It's a regular wall outlet switch that's been spliced into the line. It's what I had on hand when I needed to convert it, all taped up with no exposed wires........😱 May look crude, but perfectly safe and has been used for about five years, or so.........

ooc
 

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Personally without the light the grinder isn't any good any more Ed. Just box it up and send it to me and I'll take it off your hands...just kidding. It's just a light, make it work however, safely of course. I love the grinder, hate the light, the flex neck is not long enough. My wife made me put in one of those cost effective florencent pieces of @#$@# and by the time it warms up I've been back on the lathe for 10 minutes. I finally put a halogen in it because it doesn't stay on long enough to get really warm and I want the light now! Sorry for the rant.
 
bulb

I went to sams and bought a led light that now resides in my lathe light. I did this after I burnt the crap out of myself with the halogen bulb that was in it. I find that the led is much whiter and works really good for me.

Ed
 
A very simple solution is to bypass the dead switch and put a CFL in the socket. At about a quarter of the power of a tungsten bulb you get about the same amount of light. The color temperature of CFLs used to be really annoying, but there are now 2700K CFLs that are amazingly close to the color temperature of tungsten bulbs.

The downside for bypassing the switch is the inconvenience of unplugging (or not) the grinder when you are not turning.

Color temperature doesn't tell the whole story of how things appear under artificial lighting. Fluorescents are notorious for having an abundance of "holes" in their spectral content while tungsten lighting is heavily weighted towards the longer wavelengths. Neither one is close to the spectral content of any of the variations of natural daylight. There is a performance indicator for lighting sources called the Color Rendering Index that evaluates the light source for eight color patches as well as evaluating metamerism. The rating is a good ballpark guide, but the problem is the physiology of seeing colors doesn't always agree well with a rigid mathematical construct.
 
light

Bill,
I usally spec a 4700 degree Kelvin light for true color rendition. I gave not been Happy with the cfls as it takes to long fot the lumes to increase to an acceptable level. I am not sure I can define that but It is dimmer for the first few min and with leds I get all the light I need for sharpening.

Ed
 
jarvis89 said:
Bill,
I usally spec a 4700 degree Kelvin light for true color rendition. I gave not been Happy with the cfls as it takes to long fot the lumes to increase to an acceptable level. I am not sure I can define that but It is dimmer for the first few min and with leds I get all the light I need for sharpening.

Ed
Click to expand...

Ed, there are now some CFLs that reach full brightness very quickly, but obviously not as quickly as tungsten lights. All types of gas discharge lighting are slow to reach full output. I am sure you have noticed that especially with mercury vapor and sodium vapor outdoor lights.

True color rendition is a tricky thing to define and color temperature is not necessarily a good indicator of how you perceive colors under a given light source. Fluorescent lights, for instance, produce an output that has a few strong peaks at several different wavelength, but not not much light at most wavelengths across the visible spectrum. If the predominant color of some object is not present in the output of the light source then the color perception of the object will not be the same as it would be under natural daylight even if it has a color temperature very close to daylight.

Our brains are are amazing when it comes to adapting to various lighting conditions and being able to identify what objects are supposed to be white. Regardless of the actual color temperature, our brains "adjusts" the color of white in what we see so that white looks more or less the same under all types of lighting.

I use tungsten photofloods with a color temperature of 4800K for tabletop product photography. The photoflood is nothing more than a tungsten bulb with a blue filter. I much prefer them to any type of fluorescent lighting with a similar color temperature.
 
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