Keeping diameter consistent

[John Torchick]

I'm going to be turning timber for some reel seats in the next few days. My question is how do I apply the skew to keep the diameter the same on the reel seat? Diameter will be about 3/4 in. and about 3-1/2 to 4 in. long. Do I go back, after measuring, and just take down the area out of spec? Many thanks for your help. BTW, this can be addicting!😛

 

[john lucas]

John Use the parting tool and a measuring device (I use digital calipers) to cut grooves about every 1/2" to get really close to the final dimension. Then use a gouge or skew to take the wood down to the final dimension by sort of connecting the dots or shaving off the wood between the grooves. I prefer the skew with the edge cutting at about a 45 degree angle, short point down but it can be done quite well with a spindle gouge.
If you are mass producing them it's hard to beat a lathe duplicator for speed and consistency. I just made 44 small spindles with tenons on each end. Then tenons were within .010" of each other and easily fit in the 3/8" holes.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Square chisel will be easier and possibly even more accurate than your skew. After marking, use it like a big parting tool. You can keep it low toward center and scrape/sand, or bring it over top and get a nice peel if the wood's pretty consistent.

Other folks use the arm of a "U" shaped rough gouge. Once again, less risky to a learner than a skew.

 

[John Torchick]

Consistency

Many thanks! I like the connect-the-dots system. I have digital calipers and will put them to good use. I don't mass produce as each reel seat is custom made.

 

[john lucas]

John I should have said connect the dashes. 🙂 That's more descriptive of what it looks like.

 

[Max Taylor]

[SProbably a silly question, but have you thought of three-quarter dowels out of hardwood?Just my take on your project, MaxIZE="3"][/SIZE]

 

[Wayne Spence]

Dustpan

Last year I bought 100 oak dowels for a project, 1" and 3/4" diameter. Not only off round but some would spin in the mortise (bored out hole)and others would not even go in. It was harder to turn them true than to turn from square stock.

John-I have found a combination of two suggestions to work quite well. Turn with a parting tool and then connect the dashes with a square end scraper.

 

[John Torchick]

Reel seat diameter

Reel seats are made of an almost infinite variety of wood and materials like acrylic. Right now, mine are pecan, natural and stained. Also, have some from amboyna burl, dragonwood, etc. I build custom spinning and fly rods; reel seats are custom, one at a time. Each one is turned to fit specific seat hardware.
Thanks again, will try to post pix real soon.

 

[john lucas]

Look at the photo I just downloaded of a table with 44 spindles. I did those with the Vega duplicator. The 3/8" tenons on the ends of the dowels fit the holes almost perfectly. I measured them and there was just over .010 " difference in the lot with only 2 that needed to be sanded lightly to make them fit the hole. I was impressed.
If you make plastic or aluminum pattern instead of wood like I did you might get even more accuracy. I think it started to wear a little after 44 of these things.
They sell duplicators for full size or mini lathes.
http://www.vegawoodworking.com/

 

[John Torchick]

Duplicator

John, thanks for the link but one of those costs more than all my shop stuff! I only do the reel seats one at a time as each one is a different size dictated by the hardware used and the wood chosen by the customer. My main concern was getting consistency of the diameter from one end to the other.

 

[Richard Baker]

An alternative (?) might be, following the "connect the dashes" procedure to get very close to finished dimension, use of a flat sanding board (checking with dial calipers) to get the blank straight end to end, and removing the last few thou to the required diameter.

 

[Joe Greiner]

After you've connected the dashes, but it isn't quite perfect, glimpse past the work and observe your lathe bed, if it's reasonably straight. Deviations will stand out for correction. You may need to adjust your point of view, and practice shifting your eyes' focus, but the skill isn't difficult to gain. Bright lighting helps.

For more complicated shapes, make a visual aid like this: http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=6388

 

[MichaelMouse]

Last year I bought 100 oak dowels for a project, 1" and 3/4" diameter. Not only off round but some would spin in the mortise (bored out hole)and others would not even go in. It was harder to turn them true than to turn from square stock.

John-I have found a combination of two suggestions to work quite well. Turn with a parting tool and then connect the dashes with a square end scraper.

They cut 'em a bit green in the factory. Easier on the c/t/ooling. Makes them at best a bit oval, at worst, undersize and oval when they dry. They know the average shrink and allow for it, but sometimes the tree grows a bit faster and they have too much early and too little latewood, which makes it fun.

The scraper can promote squirm and chatter if you press a bit much, which is why I like cutting up on the piece with the square chisel. Give 'er a shot and see what you think.

 

[Joe Greiner]

Dowels are typically made by pushing the wood through progressively smaller dies, scraping along the grain. For metal wire, the wire is pulled instead, and squeezed instead of scraped. It works for wire, because the material is homogeneous. Wood, OTOH, is not, and drying shrinkage makes round into oval. Using dowels can reduce some of the effort, but only if you choose slightly oversize. Drilling before turning can help to maintain concentricity. Ditto with square blanks.