In the new Jimmy Clews DVD set"Turn it UP" he uses a "point tool". He doesn't show the tool clearly. It is not a 3 facet point tool as I know a point tool. As best as I can tell It looks like a Bedan tool used on it's side. I have learned what a "Bonny" piece of wood is but if "point Tool" is a British term I am not familiar with it.Any information would be appreciated.
-
January Turning Challenge: Thin-Stemmed Something! (click here for details) -
Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details) -
Congratulations to John Lucas for "Lost and Found" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 13, 2025 (click here for details) -
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
Jimmy Clews tool question
- Thread starter Jack Kerwood
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2008
- Messages
- 38
- Likes
- 0
His point tool is for putting lines and groves on a turning. It is very nice for that.
Jimmy's was made from a square Bedan tool 3/8"x3/8".
He gets the original shape into it by rotating the bar so that you have a diagonal point to point orientation, then grinding it so that the flat is on a 45-50 degree angle. Do this just the way you'd grind any tool using the Wolverine V pocket bar (NOT the vari-grind tool).
He then flattens the hollow grind on the side of the grinding wheels (a safety no-no I'd think).
You can do the same thing on the front of the grinding wheels free hand or by making up a little jig to hold it.
I've forgotten where to buy a 3/8x3/8 tool steel bar to make one. Maybe someone on the forum can point to a source.
Jimmy's was made from a square Bedan tool 3/8"x3/8".
He gets the original shape into it by rotating the bar so that you have a diagonal point to point orientation, then grinding it so that the flat is on a 45-50 degree angle. Do this just the way you'd grind any tool using the Wolverine V pocket bar (NOT the vari-grind tool).
He then flattens the hollow grind on the side of the grinding wheels (a safety no-no I'd think).
You can do the same thing on the front of the grinding wheels free hand or by making up a little jig to hold it.
I've forgotten where to buy a 3/8x3/8 tool steel bar to make one. Maybe someone on the forum can point to a source.
I can't quite picture how you are saying how to orient and grind the tool. Would you know where I could see a picture or sketch of the Tool? Jack
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2008
- Messages
- 38
- Likes
- 0
See if these two photos help with seeing how the tool is oriented and ground.
The first shot is a blurry head on shot to show that the grind on the tool is rotated off the flats.
The second shot shows how you get the initial 45 degree angle, with the tool again rotated off the flats. The hollow ground you get from doing it this way has to be ground out on the face of the wheel using the tool rest so that it is flat.
It looks like I bought a 3/8" x 3/8" x 8" piece of tool steel (don't remember what type). It may have been from onlinemetals.com but I don't see anything like it there at the moment. Give them a call (1-800-704-2157) and see if they have it or can custom cut a piece for your from a longer piece.
The first shot is a blurry head on shot to show that the grind on the tool is rotated off the flats.
The second shot shows how you get the initial 45 degree angle, with the tool again rotated off the flats. The hollow ground you get from doing it this way has to be ground out on the face of the wheel using the tool rest so that it is flat.
It looks like I bought a 3/8" x 3/8" x 8" piece of tool steel (don't remember what type). It may have been from onlinemetals.com but I don't see anything like it there at the moment. Give them a call (1-800-704-2157) and see if they have it or can custom cut a piece for your from a longer piece.
Attachments
Last edited:
Now I understand. Thanks,Jack
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2005
- Messages
- 13,039
- Likes
- 5,481
- Location
- Dalworthington Gardens, TX
- Website
- pbase.com
When you are using it, do you have the short diagonal on the tool rest and the long diagonal up? ... or do you lay it over so that a flat side is on the tool rest?
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2008
- Messages
- 38
- Likes
- 0
Use it so a diagonal edge of the square bar is on the tool rest (like a V on the tool rest) and you are looking down at the big flat you've ground.
Be careful about pushing it into your turning as it will go in very easily as you have a very long narrow point. Decide whether you want a nice delicate line or a very tactile V. Experiment a little first.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Why not just use the skew on it's side? I'll have to make one of those. I would just take a 3/16 or 1/4" HSS metal cutting tip and put it in one of my boring bars. Then grind the tip to this angle. Might be worth a try. I'm doing a spindle turning demo next week and everyone loves a new tool. 🙂 Especially one that's easy to make.
Just take a round rod, drill a 1/4" hole in the end, grind the 3/16" tool bit and glue it in the rod. It will probably take 10 minutes to make.
Just take a round rod, drill a 1/4" hole in the end, grind the 3/16" tool bit and glue it in the rod. It will probably take 10 minutes to make.
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 19
Or, for that matter, a parting tool. Score then cut in spindle, scrape/cut in faceplate orientation. Same job, but not a new tool. 🙁
Finished and used the "point" tool
Bill, I was able to get a 3/8 sq x 8 piece of M2 tool steel from MSC for$11.00+Shipping. Made a handle and epoxied the steel in yesterday. This morning I ground the tool, thanks to your pictures, and cut lines into very hard end grain. For this application it was worth making another tool. Besides one can never have too many tools. Thanks again for the info, Jack
Bill, I was able to get a 3/8 sq x 8 piece of M2 tool steel from MSC for$11.00+Shipping. Made a handle and epoxied the steel in yesterday. This morning I ground the tool, thanks to your pictures, and cut lines into very hard end grain. For this application it was worth making another tool. Besides one can never have too many tools. Thanks again for the info, Jack