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Jet 1642 uncrating question...?

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Apr 21, 2009
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Newbie here....

I've got that beast on order. What should I expect when it arrives? I downloaded the manual and reading between the lines, the legs will already be bolted to the bed. Is this correct?

Thanks,

TL😎
 
the legs will already be bolted to the bed. Is this correct?

no

the ways will be bolted to scrap wood/pallet in a box, Tony is correct that the headstock, tailstock, and tool rest will be on ways, and they will have to be removed to uncrate

if you uncrate at terminal be sure to get parts bag

the legs will each be in a box

enjoy
 
Tony,
If not previously mentioned, Welcome to the forum, and happy new lathe.

If like mine (~3 years ago), no need to remove HS, TS, and banjo from the bed if you can lift it one end at a time to install legs.

If somewhat tallness challenged like me (5'-8" or less), consider not installing the screw-in feet. After tapping out the holes and installing the feet, had to jack it up and remove same to get it down to my level.

Save the cardboard. It is stout (and free, sorta) and can be made into various useful items instead of using thin plywood.

Just some insignificant details that might (or not) be helpful.
 
Hi Tony!

I agree with everything that Kurt said in his post on the Mustard Monster set-up; the parallel with the Jet 1642 is quite clear. You will really enjoy this lathe.

I'll make a few additional suggestions about the Jet 1642 set up I did for mine a few years ago (I got one very shortly after they first came out).

1. Checking the ways for sharp edges, etc. - I went over the bed casting of the ways to be sure that all edges created by milling the ways flat were "eased" - simply by slightly chamfering them with a fine mill file, and then following this up with some further clean-up and smoothing with wet-dry carbide abrasive. This ensures that as you handle the bed and go about attaching it to the legs, putting on the headstock, etc. you won't encounter an edge that could cut you, and of course will be OK to work with for the life of the lathe. Check both outer AND inner long surfaces on both parts of the ways, as well as the ends. Slight chamfers (ca. 1/16") won't effect the function, and will make the tool more user-friendly.

2. Clean up and seal mating surfaces of ways and legs - After removing the cosmolene, etc. from the mating surfaces of the lathe bed and the corresponding surfaces of the tops of the leg castings, I also made sure there were no projecting surfaces, rough edges, threading "spur", etc. before bringing the pieces together to screw them together. After thoroughly cleaning the mating surfaces with mineral spirits and buffing with some fine steel wool, I then applied a very liberal coat of Bostik "Top Cote" (you could also use Boeshield T-9 or other similar product) to seal the cast iron before you screw the parts together. It doesn't hurt to seal the metal, and can help avoid rusting of the machined surfaces and 'possible rust-fusing' of the parts together through time.

3. Ease edges of headstock, banjo, and tailstock - Before installing them on the ways of the new lathe, I also went over and eased the 'bottom' edges of all machined surfaces of the headstock, banjo, and tailstock by chamfering the edges anywhere the machined surfaces of these sliding parts are supposed to glide along the ways. By removing any sharp edges, and smoothing/polishing them before installing these parts, you improve the chances that they will glide effortlessly and will not "bind" as they are moved, due to sharp edges digging-into the surface of the ways. You should only have to do this once while setting-up the tool. I also do occasional periodic clean-up of these "bottom" surfaces, usually twice or three times a year on the tailstock and banjo. To do this, I use a fine grit rubberized abrasive block (obtainable from Klingspor), also known as a "rust eraser".

4. Check tightness of pulley set screws on motor and spindle - A quick check of these before getting it up and running might eliminate the "clicks in the headstock" that are sometimes reported for the 1642. At this time you should also insure that the sheaves are aligned properly, and the belt is in the correct position.

These suggestions may seem like minor "tweaking" that could slow down your set-up a bit, and increase the 'time to first shaving', however doing them at the time of first getting the tool in working condition can enhance the performance of this lathe (or any lathe) for the life of the tool. The manufacturers generally don't have time to do these minor but useful 'tweakings' on most lathes, but by doing them in advance of taking it "on your first spin", it can prove to increase your enjoyment of your investment every time you turn it on and put a tool on a rest!

Congratulations on the new machine!

Rob Wallace

(.... who is awaiting the arrival of his new Jet 1220, and who will do all of these suggestions yet again when this lathe arrives....lathe #3 is supposed to get here on Tuesday)
 
If height challenged, 5' 4" in my case, I found that with the pallet on the floor in front of the lathe the floor levelers made it possible to level the lathe and set the spindle at the correct location for me.
 
All of these replies and links are a terrific help. It has certainly given me a very good idea on what to expect when the truck shows up and what it is going to take to put it together and tune it up a bit.

Just welded up three tool rests ala Ray Lanham's posting on some other site. I think it was linked to that PM3520 site that I was referred to.

To give you a bit of my history with my turning and how I got here. My dad had an old Craftsman lathe that I turned on during high school (late 60's). Nothing serious. Spindle work. This winter I decided I needed to make a scratch awl. This is the part of the evolution that I think some of you will smile at. 😀 I bought a lathe attachement for my drill press. Included was a vertical tool rest. The awl came out pretty good, but the old turning seed had been re-germinated. In February I bought a PSI mini lathe... didn't plan on turning bowls but my lady friend bought me a piece of ambrosia maple... I managed to turn a 7 incher and thus the order for the 1642. :cool2:

But thanks for the help on this. As I think I mentioned, I've been lurking and searching here for some time. No idea how my dad figured out turning without the 'net, he must have been formally mentored.

Tony L.
 
No one yet mentioned that you should enlist, if possible, at least two strong friends to help you off-load and assemble the lathe. It may be a baby brother to the PM class, but it is still heavy.

BH
 
Bob:

Thanks for the advice of two friends.. I was planning one. The thought of +450 pounds arriving on my doorstep is what got me out of my lurking mode on this forum and on to my first question.

TL
 
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