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jet 1642 bearings

Joined
Sep 11, 2010
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Location
Mississippi
I just changed the bearings on my 1642. I did it because you could grab the end of the shaft and physically move it to make a clunk. I changed the bearings to the Japanese sealed bearings. All went well. Unless I tighten the jam nut very tight I still get the clunk. Does this mean I need a new wave washer. Also the front bearing seems to get hot. When I put in a drive center it is very warm to the touch when I take it out. I would appreciate any help from anyone who has changed the bearings in a Jet 1642.
Thanks

PS: Took it apart again this morning. I seem to be running out of threads with the jam nut. hmmm.
Too bad I don't have a service station near here.
 
I took mine to local machine shop along with diagram of parts that came with lathe. they changed the bearings out, used the same model and company bearings......bearings are something they do on regular basis

just take headstock off to take to machine shop
 
It could be that the replacement bearings are slightly thinner than the originals.

Something else to be aware of, if your spindle is hot, and you put in a cold drive center, when it cools, it will shrink and lock the drive center in, and will be a bear to remove.
 
When you replace the bearings, make certain that they are the same as the original. This includes not only the size, but also the clearance specs. It is normally OK to substitute double rubber sealed bearings for shielded bearings or open bearings. Rubber sealed bearings will get warmer than open or shielded bearings. Also there are some rubber sealed bearings that have tighter labyrinth seals that will get even hotter. Don't make the mistake of believing that you are upgrading the bearings if the new ones are preloaded versus loose balls on the old bearing. Also check the maximum RPM rating of the new bearings. About your clunk, exactly how are you moving the spindle nose -- radially or axially? How much force? How loud is the clunk (barely audible or neighbors complaining)? How much movement is there -- in inches? Does the spindle get hot enough to cause a blister? Don't over tighten the nut that retains the spindle. It is not intended to preload the bearings. Were there any snap rings to retain the bearings?
 
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I always appreciate learning what to ask......

About your clunk, exactly how are you moving the spindle nose -- radially or axially? How much force? How loud is the clunk (barely audible or neighbors complaining)? How much movement is there -- in inches? Does the spindle get hot enough to cause a blister? Don't over tighten the nut that retains the spindle. It is not intended to preload the bearings. Were there any snap rings to retain the bearings?

Bill, if we were choosing up sides for a pick-up game of "lathe repair football", I would definitely want you on my team!

I always learn something from your replies. Thanks!

Rob
 
Bill, if we were choosing up sides for a pick-up game of "lathe repair football", I would definitely want you on my team!

Sorry if my reply was pedantic, it's just that I prefer to give a more helpful answer than simply taking a wild guess. Bearing problems can be tough to diagnose some of the time and other problems can appear to be bearing problems. Generally bearing problems show up first as noise while running.
 
Thanks for your reply's. I suspect the clunk, which was a lateral movement of the bearings was caused by the wave washer wearing out. I replaced the bearings with Japanese sealed bearings. The fit was perfect. I was unable to tighten the jam nut enough to keep the bearings seated. Ran out of thread. So I put a washer between the bearing and the nut. Finally got it tight enough to put a stop to the wobble. The new bearings are slightly narrower then the original. How do I know this since I threw away the old bearings? I had to move the rpm sensor slightly to the left to make it work properly and the larger bearing seems to be seated a little deeper then the original. I bit the bullet and ordered new factory bearings and a wave washer. Will have to wait three weeks for them to come, 11 to 15 working days. I guess the lesson learned is to replace stuff with original factory stuff. I really hate wasting money on stuff. Maybe I should order a Robust AB. Would probably solve all of my problems, except maybe loml.😛
 
Hey I'm going to buy my Robust before I get married. Then she'll just have to live with it. I was over at her sisters with her yesterday and she asked what I was doing in the afternoon. Lucy just rolled her eyes and said "he's going to buy more tools". She better get used to that. 🙂 Near as I can tell it's a never ending process. He who dies with the most tools wins and I'm going after the victory.
 
Bearings are very common local supply.

If you have the numbers on the old bearing you can look up the dimension. I recently got new bearing for my Delta D-40 old lathe. The delivery was terrible. I went to a local machine shop/supply place. They didn't even blink. I got new Japanese bearing for about $11 dollars compared to $30 for the brand name subcontractor supply outfit.

You need to change both bearing at the same time for best results.

Look up bearing master or comparison charts.

Good luck.
 
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