Is your Beall system too hungry?

[Brian Horais]

Those of you who use the Beall system to polish your creations probably enjoy the end results. But, have you had occasions when the rapidly rotating polishing wheels got too 'hungry' and grabbed your turning, flinging it who knows where with nicks and blemishes? What techniques have you developed to use the Beall system in a way that keeps it from grabbing items? Do you have special handholds or do you just make sure you have a good grip on the work? (Thanks Emiliano for inspiring this thread topic...)

 

[Tom Albrecht]

I use the rounded bowl buffs instead of the wheels as much as possible. When I do use the wheels I just use the death grip.

 

[hockenbery]

The wheels grab pieces much like a catch.
I hold the pieces so that edges face down and no edge faces up to “catch”

I had a couple of catches the first few times I used the wheels.
The past 20 years have been uneventful with regard to catches.
I even buff three sided pieces - sans twist

Some pieces can be more challenging and soft pressure will not grab a corner.

now I will feel jinxed

 

[Damon McLaughlin]

Like hockenbery I had a few catches when I started buffing but haven't had any in quite some time. If you stand at the tailstock end of the lathe and look at your wheel, I find that contacting the wheel between 6 and 8 o'clock works best for me. I don't use heavy pressure, a light to moderate pressure against the wheel is much less grabby. When holding the piece, especially if a platter or bowl, I keep my forefingers on the bottom edge of the piece, it helps to ensure the piece stays in my hands. For smaller pieces I just use a very light pressure. I don't buff pieces that are thin/fragile or have inclusions where the wheel can either catch the piece or compound can get embedded.

 

[Dwight R Rutherford]

Nitrile gloves help to give a better grip.

 

[Tom Gall]

My view on this subject. The link is for a post written 3+ years ago and is still my preferred method.

https://www.aawforum.org/community/index.php?threads/the-beall-buffing-method.12613/#post-121764

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Like Al and Damon I try to keep edges down and use the 8 to 6 position. If you do on lathe and do not have a swivel head place a pad on the ways for protection just in case. As to speed 800 works well on lacquer and maybe 1200 is sufficient for most finishes. If you hold the piece in the proper attitude to the buff grip is not significant. That said there are some pieces you just have to hold on tight and hope it works. Oh never ever try to buff near anyirregularities or sharp areas in the turned piece.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I use the same method Tom linked to - 4” buffs, use both wheel and ball or mushroom shaped in a hi speed drill, with project mounted on lathe, sometimes turning sometimes not (like the ears on a NE bowl). Dont like the idea of having to mount the beal shaft in the lathe and 8” buffs are too big for a lot of projects. I feel far more secure with the piece lathe mounted and the drill in my hands vs the opposite.

 

[Robert D Evans]

I use the buffing wheels on the outside of the bowl and always keep any edges pointed down. The buffing balls work good on the inside and lip of the bowl. You are much less likely to get a catch with the buffing balls. I run the buffing wheels about 1200 rpm and the buffing balls about 2000 rpm. A light touch is all that is needed and keep the bowl moving. I grip the bowl with both hands and do about 1/4 of the bowl before changing grip. The nitrile gloves help with the grip but I usually don't bother with them.

 

[Rick Crawford]

Nitrile gloves help to give a better grip.

Wearing gloves in close proximity to moving machinery is a recipe for disaster.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Wearing gloves in close proximity to moving machinery is a recipe for disaster.

Cloth or leather yes, thin nitrile finishing gloves, no. The nitrile will tear and not pull a hand into the machine.

 

[GRJensen]

The wheels grab pieces much like a catch.
I hold the pieces so that edges face down and no edge faces up to “catch”

I had a couple of catches the first few times I used the wheels.
The past 20 years have been uneventful with regard to catches.
I even buff three sided pieces - sans twist

Some pieces can be more challenging and soft pressure will not grab a corner.

now I will feel jinxed

I do as Al Hockenbery describes, plus I put a kneeling pad (found in the garden section of my local home center) on the lathe pad. If the piece does get away from me, the 3/4" thick rubber kneeling pad keeps it from slamming into the lathe bed.