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Is this doomed to failure?

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I’m planning to turn a goblet as a gift. I was recently given a few pieces of persimmon that are quite dry, measuring about 5.6% m.c. (They had been stored away for 10 or 15 years!), and big enough to get 3” cylinders from. I’m thinking of making a contrasting lip on the goblet of something like walnut, purpleheart or ebony. I’ve considered the possibility of making a segmented ring to glue to the top of the persimmon to defend against glue line failure at the joint of the rim to the body. I anticipate the rim being very thin and not too high, perhaps 1/8-3/16” thick and only about 3/16” tall. An added complication is that the end of the goblet will of course be end grain, and the mating surface of the rim ring would be side grain. So, as I asked in my title, is this idea doomed to failure?
I’ve had one other idea, and that is to part off a small ring from the almost finished goblet and saturate it in dye, hoping it would penetrate into the wood, then glue it back, aligning the grain, and finish turning. I’d love to hear your thoughts.
 
The small diameter is a plus, the high shrinkage rate of persimmon a minus for the prospects of permanently gluing on a segmented ring. Result, a crapshoot. Try it both ways and report back. I would favor using a non-segmented ring of a contrasting wood with similar shrinkage characteristics as persimmon, and using a rigid glue. You might have to use a pressure vessel to dye such a dense wood to any depth.
 
I’m planning to turn a goblet as a gift. I was recently given a few pieces of persimmon that are quite dry, measuring about 5.6% m.c. (They had been stored away for 10 or 15 years!), and big enough to get 3” cylinders from. I’m thinking of making a contrasting lip on the goblet of something like walnut, purpleheart or ebony. I’ve considered the possibility of making a segmented ring to glue to the top of the persimmon to defend against glue line failure at the joint of the rim to the body. I anticipate the rim being very thin and not too high, perhaps 1/8-3/16” thick and only about 3/16” tall. An added complication is that the end of the goblet will of course be end grain, and the mating surface of the rim ring would be side grain. So, as I asked in my title, is this idea doomed to failure?
I’ve had one other idea, and that is to part off a small ring from the almost finished goblet and saturate it in dye, hoping it would penetrate into the wood, then glue it back, aligning the grain, and finish turning. I’d love to hear your thoughts.

When I, in my inexperience, was concerned with gluing layers of dissimilar materials I called glue-up expert Frank Penta for advice. Made this goblet.

Cherry, walnut veneer, basswood for chip carving.
chip_carved_goblet_c.jpg

He said to alternate dissimilar woods and grain directions with thing layers of veneer. If turned thin, stresses from seasonal wood movement are minimal. Sealed with a good finish also helps. Since then, I've done this often since with other turnings. (Make sure all wood is dry, dry, dry! And mating surfaces flat)

Persimmon (an ebony) is quite different from many woods, but if you can get it glued to ebony or some other dense wood, non-oily wood, I'd think it should be OK. I glued the stack with Titebond and clamped it for several days. Epoxy might even work better - I've used epoxy to glue bubinga, walnut, and quatambu together, clamped well.

I usually use a 60 grit drum sander to flatter before gluing but a disk sander might be better to square up 3" blocks

Remember, purple heart will eventually turn brown (except for some in my stash from an undisclosed place in Mexico - it refuses to change color!)

I think it might be difficult to cut, dye, and reattach a small ring without a visible gap.
Why can't you attach end grain to end grain? Lack of wood the right size? One option besides ebony might be african blackwood. I've bought a bunch of african blackwood clarinet bell blank rejects which make wonderful turnings - could cut an end-grain slice big enough for a goblet top and glue/clamp to the goblet blank.

Here's one of several things I've made from these clarinet bell blanks.
Blackwood_Box_IMG_8157.jpg

If you decide to go with a specific wood and don't know what glue is best, I could try calling Frank.

I'd love to see a photo of the result! (BTW, I love turning persimmon - we have a lot around here.)
 
For cutting off a piece... I have had success gluing on rings by making some sort of joint - like turn a step in the 2 pieces, or a groove and mating lip. I usually turn the main piece mostly to finish size but leave the ring a bit bigger. I then dry-fit the pieces together, probably holding the ring with a disk or cone or some other gadget in my live center. Then turn and sand the outside to final shape so both pieces match. Hot glue or tape the ring in place, remove the tailstock, and finish turn and sand the inside. Remove the ring and you can paint, dye, stain, whatever. Then glue it back on.
 
Wow, some terrific suggestions. Thanks so much!
Why can't you attach end grain to end grain?
John. I was probably not clear about grain orientation. The body of the goblet will have grain oriented vertically, so to have similar grain orientation of the ring on the lip, I’d need to orient it the same way. Not a problem, but I was imagining the ring made with side grain pieces. I also like the idea of a layer of veneer between the body and the lip of the piece.
For cutting off a piece... I have had success gluing on rings by making some sort of joint - like turn a step in the 2 pieces, or a groove and mating lip. I usually turn the main piece mostly to finish size but leave the ring a bit bigger. I then dry-fit the pieces together, probably holding the ring with a disk or cone or some other gadget in my live center. Then turn and sand the outside to final shape so both pieces match. Hot glue or tape the ring in place, remove the tailstock, and finish turn and sand the inside. Remove the ring and you can paint, dye, stain, whatever. Then glue it back on.
Dave, this is an intriguing suggestion. I’ll play with the idea of working the way you suggest, making a lipped ring, and gluing the ring back on.
 
I would definitely orient the grain the same as the goblet. Either way I would cut a rabbit in the goblet and the mating ring. This will give you more glue surface and considerably decrease the failure rate. Another problem might be wood movement. If you make a segmented ring it may not move the same as the goblet. However on something no bigger than say 3" I don't thing wood movement will be much of an issue especially if you rabbit the two parts together. I've had failures in the past with rings added on top of things but usually they were in the 8 to 14" range.
 
This is something that I'll have to look into. That might be a good size for small boxes. Where does one find rejects?

Gregory

Search Google for 'africa blackwood clarinet bell blanks'. They used to be about $10 each. Don't know now.
They generally have straight sides, are wide at the bottom and narrower at the top, like a truncated pyramid.

I made this piece from a small one, narrow end down. The stand is dogwood.
pod_box_comp.jpg

I also found them made from Mopani, once. Mopani is a wonderful, hard, heavy, brown exotic wood, exotic to us.
Both of these woods are listed as "difficult" to work but no problem on a lathe (with sharp tools). I think they, like some other exotics, are wonderful to turn.

JKJ
 
If end grain-to-end grain gluing needs to be employed, here is an article that may help you find success in the glue-up.
 
I was probably not clear about grain orientation.

And I just remembered I wasn't clear or correct on why I even asked the question about my goblet glueup. I remember now I wasn't concerned about the dissimilar woods, instead worried about getting a strong bond gluing end-grain to end-grain. That's why I called Frank Penta and that's when he told me to use a thin intermediate layer with the grain going sideways instead of vertical. He said the bond between end grain and side grain would be stronger than end to end. The goblet I showed has held up for nearly 10 years now.

(The older I get, the more I forget. Imagine that. So I won't forget, I put on my calendar a reminder to be even more worthless when I turn 75 in a few months.)

JKJ
 
That’s a neat article Steve. Thanks for posting it.
You're welcome.

And I can see how John's intermediate layer going side grain may help as well. Combine that with glue sizing and it may be quite durable.
 
I've heard good things about this supplier. Sadly their web presence is lacking.

Gregory

You mean Big Monk Lumber? Pete is wonderful, one of my favorite people, and keeps an eye out for good wood.
He sets up a big booth at lots of the turning symposiums on this side of the country. I don't think he spends much time working on websites.
 
You mean Big Monk Lumber? Pete is wonderful, one of my favorite people, and keeps an eye out for good wood.
He sets up a big booth at lots of the turning symposiums on this side of the country. I don't think he spends much time working on websites.
I was just making an observation. I came across his name on the previous NC woodturning symposium website. This symposium runs again this year i look forward to seeing them there.

Gregory
 
I’ve finished turning the goblet (except for removing the tenon that I left on to hold it while I apply finish). I was thinking of a spray lacquer finish, as I want to to be pretty impervious to liquids, however I wonder about lacquer’s suitability for wine. I understand that alcohol can be a solvent for lacquer, but I imagine in higher concentrations than usually occurs in wine. Any thoughts or alternative finish suggestions would be appreciated. And yes, I understand that the purpleheart will likely fade. IMG_7133.jpeg
 
Nice design. Seal it well and the color should stay longer. (and maybe keep it out of sunlight)
I wish I could find more of the specific purple heart supply I got once that simply refuses to fade or turn brown. I was told it came from somewhere in Mexico but have no other details. Boards and blanks I've had in my shop for years are still as purple as the when I got them.

Alcohol is a solvent for shellac, of course, so I don't even use that on bottle stoppers. I generally use multiple (6-10) coats of "danish" oil, tung oil, polyurethane, or TruOil (in my experience, resistant to pretty much anything).

I've known people use epoxy for things that hold liquids but I haven't tried that.

I use TruOil on things that get handled a lot, for example these horse rider's crops.

crops.jpg

JKJ
 
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Alcohol is a solvent for shellac, of course, so I don't even use that on bottle stoppers. I generally use multiple (6-10) coats of "danish" oil, tung oil, polyurethane, or TruOil (in my experience, resistant to pretty much anything).

I've known people use epoxy for things that hold liquids but I haven't tried that.
Thanks John. I’m not familiar with TruOil. I’ll look into it. I wouldn’t use epoxy without a UV filter over it, which gets me back to what sealer is best. ( “There’s a hole in the bucket dear Liza…”)
An oil finish as you suggest may be best.
 
I’m not familiar with TruOil.

I think TruOil was designed as a wood gun stock finish, items often abused in a variety of situations.

I love it, easy to apply, makes a nice gloss if you want it.
The only problem is it tends to set up quickly, probably the reason they usually sell it in small bottles to minimize waste. However, as with my other containers of finish, before closing the lid I always displace the air with an inert gas to keep the oxygen away.

JKJ
 
I recently made a goblet as a retirement gift. I coated the inside of the bowl with West System epoxy. Once the first coat was dry, it seemed like the was some spots not fully covered, so I added a second coat. The goblet was red oak, so kind of porous. I set the speed on my lathe to as low as I could and let the goblet spin as the epoxy dried. I let it spin overnight.
After a couple of days, once I was sure that the epoxy had completely cured, I filled it with water and let it sit for about a day. There was no sign of leakage so I was happy with the results.
 
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