Is there a standard finish for live edge vs standard bowl?

[Steve Heveron]

What’s the finish on a live edge bowl? Urethane or oil?
If ca is used does that mean you’re using a urethane (punky or crack)??????

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I would not say there is a standard but I like to use Watco Danish Oil. If you buff you do have to be very careful of the bark.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

Most NE bowls are not meant to be used as salad bowls or whatever so the range of finishes that one might use is pretty well unlimited. Lacquer, varnish (polyurethane or traditional), shellac, epoxy, penetrating oils, etc are all fair game. Just depends on the effect you're looking for. Without the functional constraints you can just think in terms of film forming or not, shiny or dull, ambering (or colored with dye) or clear, ability to pop figure, repairability, water or solvent based, etc etc. It all works!

 

[Steve Heveron]

Does the urethane (anything but oil) help hold the bark on?

 

[Dave Hulett]

I've done lots of both. use whatever finish gives you the look you want. I am doubtful that any kind of varnish would keep the bark on. CA glue is the best for that.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Agree with others that many different finishes can be used. Urethane does provide a much stronger bond to the bark, but use ca glue for somewhat loose bark.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

I use Tried and True Original on both live edge and traditional bowls. Linseed oil and beeswax. No dryers.

 

[Steve Heveron]

Thanks

 

[Jaramiah Severns]

A little CA to keep the bark on. Then a few coats of T&T DO. Once that’s cured, I’ll buff with brown tripoli and finish with an empty flannel wheel

 

[hughie]

For me, bark edges or rims are decorative, and I would not consider using them on any utility ware. CA, yes its darn handy and at times a life saver. Where I live most species have loose back when dried so CA is a must and for that reason I dont turn too many with the bark edging