Is a short bed lathe all what it's cracked up to be?

[Odie]

From time to time, I've thought a short bed lathe might have some benefit. I've never had the opportunity to use one, but in theory, it seems like it might afford the operator some freedom of movement for some aspects of bowl turning.....especially where the rim is inward slanting.

Since many of my bowls have the inward slanting rims, I'm wondering about the benefits of the short bed lathe.

I can get anywhere in the interior of a bowl pretty well......it's what I've trained myself to do. At times, it seems like that extended bed might have a benefit that isn't readily apparent.......namely, my body braces up against it while turning the bowl interior. This gives me a very solid body stance.....and that does seem to be lacking with a bed that isn't there.

OK....there's a couple of thoughts.

Any opinions on that?

Like I said, I've never tried out a short bed lathe......so, my opinions and thoughts are based on a perception.....not actual experience.

I've had this Australian Woodfast lathe for 18 years now. It's been a great lathe, and I'm very used to it.

ooc

 

[Wm Babbitt]

Bowl Lathe

Aloha Odie...
My opinion for what its worth is that the advantage of being able to stand in front rather then leaning over the bed is much kinder to my back and legs (age takes it toll). The lathe I built was for this specific reason and has allowed me to face the bowl while standing or sitting. I'm contemplating raising the lathe another 6-8 inches so that I can see the inside while standing without bending down. Wonder if anyone has ever placed their lathe on hydraulics so that the level can be adjusted. I've attached a pix of the lathe

 

[alexc]

I have the mustard and whenever I do bowls and no longer want the tailstock I pull the head towards the end of the bed and it certainly makes everything more comfortable. I also have the bed extension bolted lower down so when I sand I sit on it. Puts me right at the level I want to be.

 

[john lucas]

Ditto what Alex said. You have the best of both worlds in the Powermatic 3520 lathes as well as Jet 1642 and the Robust sweet 16. I used both features yesterday. I have a bed extension on mine but I mount it on the headstock side so it doesn't take up much room when I don't need it.
I turned a bowl in the morning and slid the headstock down to make it easier to use my body to control the cut and I don't have to lean over the bed. In the afternoon I turned a spindle that was 31" long and required moving the headstock about 2" down the bed extension.
The only downside to the sliding headstock is you need more room at the end of the lathe. A dedicated bowl lathe or short bed lathe doesn't require a lot of room in the shop but then you give up the long spindle capability. The Stubby gives you both short bed and long bed and gap bed but in a different way.

 

[jack richington]

Hi Odie

I use a Nova 3000 (yes an older lathe) to turn bowls. I can turn the head and stand right in front of it and shine light where I need it. Nova says one can turn 29 inch bowl. Never had wood that big, so I never measured that. But it solves the problem of short bed/longbed.:cool2:

 

[MichaelMouse]

Shorter beds save space in tight shops, but they don't turn 32" table legs. So if you need one but not the other, of course it makes sense to get the appropriate machine. If you need (or want) both, you'll have to do some sort of two-piece bolt up once in a while, I guess.

Unless you're turning pottery, where all tools work at or near centerline, you should never have a problem with "leaning." The bed's only six-eight inches wide max, of which half is on your side, unless you have something like Wm. Most tools have longer metal, let alone handles, than that. Let THEM do the reaching while you stand up. The high-end pottery tools with captured handles make leaning almost obsolete as well. The crook in my Stewart system handle does a pretty good job of keeping my arm close to my body, and it's entry-level stuff.

Then there's the undeniable benefit that turning over the bed brings - it allows you the support and safety of the tailstock. Betting, OD, that you don't see a lot of wood larger than your ability to swing over the bed. Even urban situations, where trees are pets rather than crops won't produce many useable pieces of 20 inch diameter and up. Which would make curiosities, not working treen anyway. for the 1% of occasions when you need to, you can rotate or slide, your preference. Rest of the time, work safer with the extra support.

Those who tout the need to "stand in front." What are you doing that makes that an advantage? I strongly suspect that just selecting another tool to do the job would put you back beside the turning where you don't need to maintain open floor space at the end of the ways, further diminishing the size of your shop.

 

[hockenbery]

A short bed lathe offers a great advantage for older folks who lack range of motion and hand strength.

typical hollowing of a bowl starts with the handle across the bed. the handle is pulled toward you as the tool cuts to the bottom of the bowl. the cut ends with tool by the side.

With a short bed the entire cut can be made with the tool handle tucked under the arm and a rotation of the body. For some folks this is the only way.

For the rest of us it is a better way since tool handle to the side is more controlled than tool handle in the air.

That said most of do quite well turning bowls on the long bed.
The improvement we'd get from a short bed is not worth going to the short bed.

happy turning
Al

 

[Odie]

Thanks for the replies, gentlemen.........this is the kind of feedback I sort of expected.

Even for those of us who don't have the short bed, sliding/swiveling headstock, it's not difficult to visualize the physical convenience of having them.

Like many things in life, convenience seems to be at the loss of something else......a trade-off.

This is probably a minor consideration, but introducing a movable headstock will multiply the possible variation between headstock to tailstock alignment by a factor of two.

The other consideration seems like a more substantial consideration......(from my point of view, anyway.) This is "stability". I've often felt that if I could have a body with the rigidity of steel, how great that would be for making smooth, precise cuts on the lathe, without sacrificing the "human" element of the movement required to make the cut.

Rigidity......this is something that is lost, or reduced when you can no longer use the lathe itself as a support for your body. I will have to agree that it would be a great convenience to not lean and twist your body to manage finely executed interior cuts, but I do question the premise that as fine a cut can be had without the added body stability........😕

For me, what's important is my ability to get the best results I can possibly get......it's about my art.......not what is physically convenient for me.

ooc

 

[flyrod444]

I built my shop for my lathe which let me have the room needed for my lathe. I have a oneway1640 with outboard attachments. I can turn long spindles on the inboard side and if the need ever comes the outboard bed can be used to extend the inboard side to 64" between centers. But hollowing out open forms standing in front of the bowl on the out board side makes for some easy turning. One can hold the tool handle against their hip which gives you great control. I also sit on a stool in front of the outboard side when using my John Jordan arm brace hollowing tool to hollow out hollow forms. My stool can be adjusted for the perfect height for using an arm brace handle. I also use both inboard and outboard sides of my lathe for turning turkey calls. It takes two different size chuck jaws for them. I'm able to turn a 6 or 7 on the inboard side and then just step around to the outboard side and finish them up without changing chucks or jaws. I also turn a lot on a 3520 PM at the school shop I teach at. Having the sliding headstock is very nice where space is a problem.
Jack

 

[waltben]

Shorter beds save space in tight shops, but they don't turn 32" table legs.

A Stubby 750 with a John Jordan bed as sold in the US is considered a short bed lathe, but will turn 34" as good as any fixed bed lathe, and up to 36" if you're careful. A stock one will turn up to 30" diameter between centers (not outboard) - mine will turn 34" but I don't use the tail stock. Making general comments based on standard fixed bed experience isn't a good thing to do.

 

[john lucas]

MM When hollowing a bowl with a bowl gouge the tool is hanging way over the bed for the initial cut. If it's a steep sided bowl you end up moving the gouge through about a 120 degree arc. I like to control the tool with my body, not my arm. I can get a much more accurate cut and less wear and tear on my shoulders if I stand right in front of the bowl. This way I have the tool handle on my hip which gives me much more precise handling of the tool. You still have the option of standing in one place but you get to pick the place. It's not dictated by the lathe bed.
Of course that's just for bowls. Hollow forms are much easier to hollow standing on the end. However if you use a captured boring bar system then a long bed is pretty handy. It makes setting the boring bar up much easier. You can do it with a short bed lathe but the secondary tool rest is on a free standing tool rest.
Then their is safety. Some of the weird stuff I turn has off center wings that are downright dangerous. By standing at the end of the lathe I'm never even close to the "line of fire" should anything decide to come off.

 

[Odie]

Making general comments based on standard fixed bed experience isn't a good thing to do.

I don't think I can completely agree with that, waltben.........

My intent was to stir up some knowledgeable comments and evaluation from those on both sides of the fence. I am one who intends to support the notion that general knowledge can be introduced concerning specific applications.....whether direct and specific experience is possessed, or not. This is akin to an aircraft mechanic making a statement about an aircraft type he's never personally worked on.....there is some measurement of validity, even though not directly.

.......however, we can definitely measure the validity of inexperienced, and experienced comments based on the quality of our end results......the fruits of our labors!

One thing I've found among woodturners, is many of them tend to make judgements about their own capability based on the equipment they own......instead of the skills they possess.

(waltben, the above comment is a general statement aimed at a portion of the woodturner community in general......not necessarily intended for you in particular.)

ooc

 

[Dave Ogren]

Short bed ?? Better Yet No Bed

When I got into wood turning less than a year ago I had read a lot of posts about sliding headstocks and that was what I really wanted, to have good acess to the inside of a bowl. That idea was based in 40 years of metal turning so I had a small amount of knowledge.

After a long wait for a promised PM3520A I accidentally stumbled across a
VB 36. Now I actually can't picture turning a bowl with any bed in the way.

To my way of thinking it would really have to be a VB or a sliding headstock or a dedicated bowl lathe like a Vega. The big deal is the tool rest mounting.

Just try it once and you will be amazed.

Good Luck,

Dave

 

[hockenbery]

entry cut on a bowl with a short bed

Here is a photo by Ron browning at the Florida Sysmpsoium.

James McClure is hollowing a bowl. In the photo he has just entered the bowl.
he has great body and tool position. The short bed allows him to have the tool into his side and use his body to turn a great inside curve.

-Al

 

[waltben]

I don't think I can completely agree with that, waltben.........

My intent was to stir up some knowledgeable comments and evaluation from those on both sides of the fence. I am one who intends to support the notion that general knowledge can be introduced concerning specific applications.....whether direct and specific experience is possessed, or not. This is akin to an aircraft mechanic making a statement about an aircraft type he's never personally worked on.....there is some measurement of validity, even though not directly.

.......however, we can definitely measure the validity of inexperienced, and experienced comments based on the quality of our end results......the fruits of our labors!

One thing I've found among woodturners, is many of them tend to make judgements about their own capability based on the equipment they own......instead of the skills they possess.

(waltben, the above comment is a general statement aimed at a portion of the woodturner community in general......not necessarily intended for you in particular.)

ooc

The general comment I addressed was that 32" spindles can't be turned on a short bed lathe. Additionally, you seemed to be speaking from the perspective of only considering short fixed bed lathes, rather than including the Stubby or something like an Ebo (can be configured in about any manner you'd like). Any short bed lathe will give the owner far more flexibility in placement or 32" or less items simply because of their size difference. A Stubby will give more flexibility than any other lathe I've seen for complex forms and the like (not to mention ease of use), but must be adapted or modified for longer spindle pieces.

I've commented over and over that before anyone begins to consider a specific type, brand or model lathe, they need to do a basic requirements analysis to determine what their wants and needs are - not just focus on color, horsepower, or what its made of. I'd never recommend a Stubby to someone who wanted to turn porch pillars, nor would I recommend a long bed anything to someone who wanted to only make bowls or had a small shop. Each individual machine has it's pluses and minuses, but until a person figures out what they want to do, they can't make a perfect match.

 

[MichaelMouse]

A Stubby 750 with a John Jordan bed as sold in the US is considered a short bed lathe, but will turn 34" as good as any fixed bed lathe, and up to 36" if you're careful. A stock one will turn up to 30" diameter between centers (not outboard) - mine will turn 34" but I don't use the tail stock. Making general comments based on standard fixed bed experience isn't a good thing to do.

Probably why I mentioned "bolting up", d'ya think? Ad hominem replies based on one machine rather than the 99% of others don't really do a lot to further the discussion.

For those who are interested in seeing the alleged short-bed (really a gap-bed), Stubby, take a peek at http://stubbylatheusa.com/S750_Brochure.90.pdf Sliding rather than bolting still seems to make the bed longer, of course. Which also means you have to reserve floor space just like a long bed lathe to use it.

 

[MichaelMouse]

MM When hollowing a bowl with a bowl gouge the tool is hanging way over the bed for the initial cut. If it's a steep sided bowl you end up moving the gouge through about a 120 degree arc. I like to control the tool with my body, not my arm. I can get a much more accurate cut and less wear and tear on my shoulders if I stand right in front of the bowl.

Huh? Why would the business end of the tool EVER extend past center? Which, as I mentioned, is only eight or so inches from you. The tool is an inch over the rest, your pivot hand is another five inches knuckles to wrist, so you've got all that distance pretty well commited, even if you don't hold the tool handle with the other 4" wide hand.

This ain't a bad way to do it. The hand at the far end of the tool can go past center as you begin to cut perimeter downward, but even that is well within reach of the average arm. http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n28/MichaelMouse/?action=view&current=HollowTwo001.flv

I find my right hand gives me much better control tool than my hip, though I do the dip and swivel to give general direction. It's the carver in me that pushes with one hand and pulls with the other for precision.

 

[john lucas]

Your bowls are shallower than mine. I will often have a bowl with a lip that is almost vertical or even undercut. With a bowl gouge that has a 55 degree tip the handle of the tool will almost touch the far side of the bowl on some shapes. That means my tool handle will move from 90 to 120 degrees by the time it goes from that side through the bottom of the bowl.
With a shallow bowl and gouge ground at 40 degrees the handle only has to move a little.

 

[Jim Carroll]

I have found that most short bed lathes are more suited to taller guys with long reach. I am 5'10 and struggle on the short bed lathes.

To fix this I use swivel head lathes so I have the Omega Stubby SL250 swivel head lathe which can swing 500mm over the bed but by swiveling the head I am able to get in close and comfortable and not have to bend out of shape to work.

I recently came across a 10" Union Graduate bowl lathe which allows me to stand in any position and work comfortably, you still have a tailstock to support the work if need be but you are comfortable in your stance.

As you have a long bed lathe I would look out for one of these types, they dont take up much room either.

As it is only a four speed lathe I am about to change all that to vsd and make it even better, the weight alone lets you do some good size peices. Mine is not bolted down yet as I dont feel it is in the right position.

 

[hockenbery]

Jim,
the Union graduate is sort of the granddaddy of short bed lathes.

MM, John, the photo on the left may show what John was talking about.
James McClure has the end of the handle in a position that would be way across the ways. James has his body positioned a bit to the right of center.
as he pivots the gouge will cut in an arc to the bottom center of the bowl.

the second phot shows the bowl. it is about 11" diameter and 5 inches deep
close to hemispherical.
a good example of how the short-bed allows the body to do the turning.

The photo is by Ron Browning shows James McClure at the fla symsposium.

 

[JerrySambrook]

I beg to ask.
Why don't more of us use the reverse feature on these lathes, and turn the opposite side.
This does not mean stand on the opposite side, but turn with the tool on the opposite side from you, where you can see exactly where you are cutting, have the tool handle in your hip/side/upper leg/wherever, and still only overhang the inch or so.
Because I started on my own, and thought about doing this, it seems normal to me, however, many of the people who have seen me do this say I should not be because it is not done this way.

Jerry

 

[ray hampton]

I beg to ask.
Why don't more of us use the reverse feature on these lathes, and turn the opposite side.
This does not mean stand on the opposite side, but turn with the tool on the opposite side from you, where you can see exactly where you are cutting, have the tool handle in your hip/side/upper leg/wherever, and still only overhang the inch or so.
Because I started on my own, and thought about doing this, it seems normal to me, however, many of the people who have seen me do this say I should not be because it is not done this way.

Jerry

Jerry, are you talking about turning bowls ?

 

[Odie]

I beg to ask.
Why don't more of us use the reverse feature on these lathes, and turn the opposite side.
This does not mean stand on the opposite side, but turn with the tool on the opposite side from you, where you can see exactly where you are cutting, have the tool handle in your hip/side/upper leg/wherever, and still only overhang the inch or so.
Because I started on my own, and thought about doing this, it seems normal to me, however, many of the people who have seen me do this say I should not be because it is not done this way.

Jerry

Jerry.....

That's a reasonable question, and it could be done. In order for it to work, a set screw would be needed to secure your faceplate or chuck.....otherwise they would spin off the right hand threads of your spindle.

I don't see why someone couldn't get used to doing it that way.

I've never had reverse until only in the past few years, when I converted to variable speed.....so, it's never been an option until I was well established in my ways of doing things.

I'm with you on one point.......it's funny how so many woodturners don't cut their own paths......simply because they choose to follow the herd!

ooc

 

[waltben]

MM - I'm afraid you don't get it about Stubby's. The bed not only slides, it also pivots. Couple that with the auxiliary bed that mounts onto any of several locations, one can turn just about any possible form you can think of without having to be a gymnast or draping yourself over the machine. Look at the photos on the StubbyUSA website a bit closer.

 

[john lucas]

Jerry I turn in reverse often when doing my hand mirrors. My mirrors are usually convex in shape. To turn down hill with the grain you have to turn from the center to the outer edge. This is done in reverse so I can hold the tool handle against my body and get a nice clean cut. If I turn them in forward I have to either hold my arm out in space, or turn using a pull cut which is harder to control.

 

[n7bsn]

I beg to ask.
Why don't more of us use the reverse feature on these lathes, and turn the opposite side.
...

Jerry

Actually I find my self, more and more, doing reverse direction turning, but from the normal side. I just did that for tall mug I did for SWMBO. I find I can often see that side better

Ralph

 

[jack richington]

why do we need to stand in front?

Shorter beds save space in tight shops, but they don't turn 32" table legs. So if you need one but not the other, of course it makes sense to get the appropriate machine. If you need (or want) both, you'll have to do some sort of two-piece bolt up once in a while, I guess.

Unless you're turning pottery, where all tools work at or near centerline, you should never have a problem with "leaning." The bed's only six-eight inches wide max, of which half is on your side, unless you have something like Wm. Most tools have longer metal, let alone handles, than that. Let THEM do the reaching while you stand up. The high-end pottery tools with captured handles make leaning almost obsolete as well. The crook in my Stewart system handle does a pretty good job of keeping my arm close to my body, and it's entry-level stuff.

Then there's the undeniable benefit that turning over the bed brings - it allows you the support and safety of the tailstock. Betting, OD, that you don't see a lot of wood larger than your ability to swing over the bed. Even urban situations, where trees are pets rather than crops won't produce many useable pieces of 20 inch diameter and up. Which would make curiosities, not working treen anyway. for the 1% of occasions when you need to, you can rotate or slide, your preference. Rest of the time, work safer with the extra support.

Those who tout the need to "stand in front." What are you doing that makes that an advantage? I strongly suspect that just selecting another tool to do the job would put you back beside the turning where you don't need to maintain open floor space at the end of the ways, further diminishing the size of your shop.

Well, Michael, some of us do as we've had numerous back surgeries and bending cockeyed over a bed and trying to peer inside a bowl is torturous....good enough reason?

 

[Odie]

Well, Michael, some of us do as we've had numerous back surgeries and bending cockeyed over a bed and trying to peer inside a bowl is torturous....good enough reason?

Sounds like a good enough reason to me, Jack......

When I speak of my "perceived" advantages of leaning my body against the long bed, I must clarify that I am only speaking for myself, and hope I have communicated that point successfully. I understand that I probably stand in the minority on this......(which seems to be normal for me!) 😀

ooc

 

[MichaelMouse]

Well, Michael, some of us do as we've had numerous back surgeries and bending cockeyed over a bed and trying to peer inside a bowl is torturous....good enough reason?

Answer to a question not asked again? Does the exception prove or trump the rule? If that's your problem, you must seek your solution.

As far as leaning for anything BUT pottery cuts, look at the clips I referenced and you'll see a guy standing straight up and swinging with hands and hips. It would be an excellent way for you to work, as the owner of this ancient and abused back can attest.

 

[MichaelMouse]

MM - I'm afraid you don't get it about Stubby's. The bed not only slides, it also pivots. Couple that with the auxiliary bed that mounts onto any of several locations, one can turn just about any possible form you can think of without having to be a gymnast or draping yourself over the machine. Look at the photos on the StubbyUSA website a bit closer.

I get it just fine. It's a gap/extension bed or a long banjo depending on how you move it. Back in the day I turned outboard with prepositioned mount points on the lathe stand using the stock banjo on the 46-5XX series. I also did columns by using the countershafted headstock on one side of the shop and a 2x6 bed to reach the tailstock mounted on the other. Didn't make either method standard enough to base a reply to a general question on the advantyages of a short bed lathe.

 

[robo hippy]

I don't like the long bed lathes for bowl turning. I did most of my bowls on a PM 3520A for 8 years, and now on the Robust American Beauty for over 2 years. I liked it because I didn't have to lean over the bed of the lathe to turn the outside or inside of a bowl, and it is easier for hollow forms as well. Last fall, I took a 3 day workshop with Stewart and Allen Batty. I tried Stewart's methods of bowl turning. Some thing about it seemed odd to me, and after a month or so, I figured it out. He learned to turn bowls on a long bed lathe. In order to keep from leaning over the bed of the lathe, he would extend his arms out away from his body to make the cuts. I like to keep the tool in close to my body, which is much more stable. It can be done both ways, but I will take the sliding headstock/short bed any time over the long bed.

robo hippy

 

[john lucas]

It's not really a question about the shavings. I can get really great shavings and have bowl with ripples or just a plain ugly shape. The idea behind using my body to turn is that I can make the shape very fluid with very fine adjustments in body position to get that shape. Of course you can also get an ugly shape this way as well. You have to know what you want and then your body helps you get there.
David Ellsworth goes so far as to help you get your mind right before you turn. With you brain relaxed and free to move and your body free to move then you have a much finer control over the final shape.
I don't know how David feels about short bed lathes since he did his turning by sitting on the bed of the lathe.

 

[Dave Moore]

Judging from a passage in his book, David prefers a short bed over a long bed. He sits on a long bed because it's "in the way", and were it not there he'd stand up, facing the work.
Every picture in his book (for hollowing anyway) shows him working on a Robust, with the headstock moved to the right hand end of the ways and the tailstock out of the way.
A 3520 or similar would give the same freedom, I imagine.
He's real big on being relaxed, and not holding any muscular tension to cantilever yourself out over the work.
Makes sense to me.

 

[David Strickland]

Since I started my turning on a long bed lathe, I thought I would throw my 2 cents in.
I found that with a long bed I would free hand a tool away from my body trying to make cuts without good tool handle support.
Sometimes the results on certain woods was not so hot and I would sit on the lathe for better control.
A few years back I replaced the long bed with a Vega 2600 and turning and tool control got easy. The whole body makes the cut and not just your arms. Would I ever go back to a long bed? ONLY if it had outboard capability or a sliding head stock. It works for me!

David

 

[Vaughn]

...Unless you're turning pottery, where all tools work at or near centerline, you should never have a problem with "leaning." ...

Aha! That's where I've been going wrong. I've been turning wood, not pottery. Do you turn it wet first, then re-turn after it dries, or just let it do its thing and warp or crack? I've also heard you can dry it in some kind of oven thing. 😉

Odie, I tend to turn most pieces over the long bed of my 3520B. For pieces bigger than 20", I slide the headstock to the end and use the dropped extension to support the tool rest. (Contrary to some beliefs, I'm in a very large urban area and have no real trouble finding 24"+ logs. I prefer turning "curiosities" over treenware, myself. I'm funny that way.) I do like being able to stand facing the end of the bed, but I usually move the lathe a foot or two to make cleanup a bit easier. (Horror of horrors -- my lathe is on wheels. 😱 Zambus casters, to be specific.) If my shop layout was a bit different, I'd likely turn from the end of the bed more often on smaller pieces. Like others, I appreciate the added control I can get, especially on the bigger pieces.

 

[Odie]

Odie, I tend to turn most pieces over the long bed of my 3520B. For pieces bigger than 20", I slide the headstock to the end and use the dropped extension to support the tool rest. (Contrary to some beliefs, I'm in a very large urban area and have no real trouble finding 24"+ logs. I prefer turning "curiosities" over treenware, myself. I'm funny that way.) I do like being able to stand facing the end of the bed, but I usually move the lathe a foot or two to make cleanup a bit easier. (Horror of horrors -- my lathe is on wheels. 😱 Zambus casters, to be specific.) If my shop layout was a bit different, I'd likely turn from the end of the bed more often on smaller pieces. Like others, I appreciate the added control I can get, especially on the bigger pieces.

Vaughn.......

I suppose there's some point where size has got to be a factor. My Woodfast lathe is 16" swing, so I'm limited to size smaller than some of the other turners here. For anything I can mount on my lathe, I don't really see anything I can't do that others can with a short bed, swivel/sliding headstock. Not only am I not limited in capability, I feel very satisfied with the results I get.......

As I mentioned before, I'm using the long bed as a brace for my body......and, it's my opinion that this is an important benefit that would be lost without the long bed. As I see it, the solid base I have with my body translates into tool stability for the interior cuts in a bowl.

Someone else mentioned their body height in this discussion......and that may enter into the scheme of things here. I'm only 5'9"......so it could play a part in why I am reluctant to conclude that my long bed lathe is a limiting factor for me.

Would I like to try a short bed, sliding/swivel headstock lathe? ......Sure I would, but I have doubts that it will add anything at all to the end result.....the bowls produced.

ooc

 

[Grant Wilkinson]

Vega 2600

I'm a relative newbie to bowl turning, but when I was looking, I sought advice from someone whose opinion on bowl lathes I knew I could trust. I told him my budget and I reminded him that my shop is quite small. I ended up with the Vega 2600. I love it. I can completely remove the tailstock assembly in seconds and stand in front of the bowl. I have a small Jet for spindles, so I really didn't need that feature in a new lathe. The Vega's spindle capacity is really limited, but for bowls, it's very fine.

 

[Malcolm Smith]

The Oneway I have allows me to turn the outside profile inboard and then mount this on the short bed I have on the outboard end where I turn the inside of the bowl. After this I typically will go back to turning inboard to turn the bottom of the bowl, often using their vacuum chuck system. I some times reverse the lathe both inboard and outboard. A second banjo is a good idea and the light I use is mounted on a post that sits in the banjo that isn't holding a toolrest. .

I would strongly recommend at the very least getting the short bed that mounts on the outboard end to anyone who does not have it.

Malcolm Smith

 

[hughie]

Odie.
I have both 😀 which is the best of two worlds. I guess the best thing would be to find somebody with one an give it a test run.

Having said that, the reason I have one, is for the reasons you outlined. 🙂
I now use it finish off my bowls on and carry my 2' dia Longworth chuck.

The length of my bed is 20" and it will swing a 28" bowl or platter and Its mounted on a short stand. Definitely easier to get around such a short lathe as this and its a great benefit.

I have mounted a short bed [ 6"] at right angles at the headstock to allow me to move the banjo for doing both sides of the bowl with removing it from the chuck. Have yet to build a tailstock for it, been a bit slack there.

I also have a old Woodfast 400 1987 vintage with a 16" bed. I am in the process of changing it over to a 1hp motor three phase with variable speed control.

 

[Wyatt Holm]

I got long bed. I have not wished it was shortbed yet. I have turned mostly bowls.