Inserts for Hunters Tool

[Alex Ku]

Guys,

I've found some posts where people discussing resharpening Hunters Tool inserts since they are $22 each. Actually you can get them much cheaper. Hunter Tool cutter is nothing more than a RCMT type insert.

R - means round
C - means 7 degrees relieve angle(also available from 0 to 30)
M - tolerance(doesn't really matter for wood working)
T - describes this particular shape of cutter

They cost around $5-9 each. The only problem that suppliers sell them in a pack of 5 or 10 pieces. But I am sure you can find buddies to split a 10 pack.


BTW Looks like these cutters($4):
http://www.pgstools.com/servlet/the-Carbide-Inserts-cln-Wood-Cutting/Categories
will fit Ci1 Easy Rougher

 

[Dennis Taylor]

source link? ***NM****

thanks for the info on the cutters...Dennis

 

[Alex Ku]

You are welcome

I don't know exact measurements of Hunter Tool cutter. But if someone measures it I can find exact replacement.
For now I found some cutters that should be pretty close to what Hunter Tool has.

This cutter is similar to hunters tool
diam 0.315"
thickness 1/8"
polished top

Another similar cutter.
diam 0.394"
thickness 5/32"
polished


Bigger cutter
diam 0.472"
thickness 3/16"
polished

BTW If you are not making DIY Hunter Tool make sure that replacement cutter has the same screw type and size!!!

 

[Alex Ku]

As I just discovered you can find great deals on eBay on carbide inserts. You can get brand name carbide insert for $2 each if you buy 100 pack.

Guys,
would any of you be interested in buying 100 pieces and reselling them to rest of us here on AAW? I guess people would be happy to pay up to $8-10 for an insert.
Just make sure you get the right type, size etc. before committing to buying a hundred of them.
Maybe even carbide insert tool DIY set: insert, screw, metal rod.

 

[Ron Sardo]

RCMT Carbide inserts do not come as sharp as Hunter inserts.

 

[Tom Lewis]

Ron is right. The carbide inserts used on a metal lathe are not as sharp as carbide inserts made especially for wood. A carbide insert made to cut wood would not last very long on a metal lathe.
I have made several wood lathe tools using metal lathe carbide inserts. They have their place like when you find a nail in the wood, but they do not cut nearly as well as the inserts made for wood.

 

[Alex Ku]

Thanks for your input.
I've checked a few inserts and this one seems to be the sharpest(has more acute angle than other)
I don't have a Hunter's cutter but judging from pictures this cuter is pretty close. Full description of this cutter does say that it can be used for wood.

Of course without seen an actual cutter it's hard to tell if it has sharp edges.

 

[GLENN ROBERTS]

Thanks for your input.
I've checked a few inserts and this one seems to be the sharpest(has more acute angle than other)
I don't have a Hunter's cutter but judging from pictures this cuter is pretty close. Full description of this cutter does say that it can be used for wood.

Of course without seen an actual cutter it's hard to tell if it has sharp edges.

For what it is worth, the carbide inserts worth checking would be those designed to cut non ferous metals eg: aluminium. they are so sharp, on wood, that they can be too 'grabby'. And yes they do often sell in packs of 10. At least that is what I have found. However I do not know if they are used by the brands mentioned here, but worth checking.

Glenn

 

[john lucas]

Hunter cutters can be grabby if you don't rub the bevel. It is a very sharp tool will function just like a bowl gouge if you come off the bevel. When I teach people to use the Hunter tools I tell them to imagine you are cutting with the nose of the bowl gouge. It is the same geometry except a bowl gouge has a cutting angle of about 55 degrees or so because the flute is flat. The Hunter cutter has recessed top which gives it a cutting angle of about 30 degrees or so which is quite sharp.
I haven't ordered any of the other cutters to see if they are the same. They look similar but I don't know if the upper surface is polished like the Hunter. They might also be a different metal composition. I have used the Hunter cutters to cut aluminum with no damage to the edge. In fact I used my #4 cutter to do this and just this weekend I was showing someone how clean the cutter works on tearout prone woods. This cutter is a year old and has been used a lot. Unless you bang the tools together to chip the edge or drop them and chip the edge I don't think you will need other cutters for a long time.

 

[Alex Ku]

This cutter also has polished surface. I've checked other aluminum cutters and it looks like all quality cutters for aluminum have polished surface to avoid aluminum chips sticking.

 

[Russ Fairfield]

Maybe I am doing something wrong, but I am wondering what people are doing to the tools that they need to sharpen or change the cutters. I have one of the original Hunter tools that I picked up from Bill Hunter in Minneapolis 2 years ago. I quit counting at 75 goblets, small boxes, and similar size items that have been hollowed with the tool. I have yet to rotate the cutter because it is still cutting the same as it did when it was new. Maybe others are using their Hunter tool a lot more.

 

[robo hippy]

I talked to Mike about this. There are different types of carbides. What he uses is different from those listed here, a much finer grain, which gives a much finer cutting edge. The cut you get from a circular saw blade isn't good enough for a turning cut. He also has a special coating that is done in a vacuum chamber. I guess the only way to find out is to try some out and see. The cost isn't too much.
robo hippy

 

[Odie]

I talked to Mike about this. There are different types of carbides. What he uses is different from those listed here, a much finer grain, which gives a much finer cutting edge. The cut you get from a circular saw blade isn't good enough for a turning cut. He also has a special coating that is done in a vacuum chamber. I guess the only way to find out is to try some out and see. The cost isn't too much.
robo hippy

Just wondering robo.......

What is the purpose of the coating?

OOC

 

[robo hippy]

Not sure exactly, I did notice that some of the metal ones also said they had a coating on them. It did sound more like a non stick coating than anything. The place here in town that made my CBN grinding wheels, also does a lot of work for the saw mills. They were trying to get me to bring in a tool (HSS) for an electroplating that makes the cutting edge last longer. I probably should try it some time, but they need the tool unhandled. I would need 2 so I could compare. There is a lot of metalurgy stuff out there that none but the specialists out there know about. I talked to Doug Thompson about it as well. Mostly, the new stuff is very expensive, to the point where most of us could not afford it. Dang, I guess I just have to win the lottery, then I can experiment to my hearts content.
robo hippy

 

[KEW]

FWIW, hoping to find a less expensive option, I bought the "Carbide Insert with Hex Stem" from monster-wood-tool.com for $30 (which includes a hex shank for mounting in hollowing tools).
From casual inspection, this bit is the same shape as the Hunter, but not as polished; however, I never use it because the Hunter cuts so much cleaner.
Note: I am not bashing MT; I am a fan of Monster Tool Products - usually they represent quality tools at good value. However, IMHO this specific insert does not compare favorably with the Hunter insert.

It seems outrageous to spend more than $10 for a disposable insert. However, based on the comments from Russ Fairfield and John Lucas on insert durability, it may make more sense to categorize the Hunter inserts with other disposable cutters such as router bits or saw blades. That is to say the incremental cost over the long haul does seem reasonable.
(Nonetheless, I'll definitely be watching to see if anyone finds a comparable insert at a lesser price!)

 

[Alex Ku]

Kew,
I went to monster-wood-tool.com and looked at their cutter.
What can I say.... They did not do their homework. They are using wrong cutters for wood. Theirs have a tiny radius on cutting edge. It make it more robust for cutting metal but too dull for wood.

For wood you need what's called "up-sharp, polished inserts for nonferrous materials"

Up-Sharp means - no radius on cutting edge.

 

[Ron Sardo]

This cutter also has polished surface. I've checked other aluminum cutters and it looks like all quality cutters for aluminum have polished surface to avoid aluminum chips sticking.

Thanks for that info