Improvements over the Rolle Munro System?

[John Tisdale]

About three years ago I started using the Rolle Munro systems - like any other tool of this nature, you have to go over a learning curve to get "acceptable" results. To my thinking the adjustability of the guard is crude and the tool-head too light - doing a 22" diameter mesquite will challenge any tool plus the human stupid enough to hold it.
What's out there? Woodturners by nature are "problem solvers" and there is bound to be a bunch of machinists / designers that have come up with a better mouse-trap.
Care to share?

 

[Bill Boehme]

I have the Rolly Munro carbide cutter for use with my Steve Sinner (Acvanced Lathe Tools) boring bar rig. I assume that you are referring to the carbide cutter.

My understanding is that the guarded cutter is best for final turning wood after it has dried ... or at any rate that is how I use it. Setting up the top shield is a bit touchy -- not unlike setting the throat clearance oln a bench plane. There is a fine line between dealing with the thing constantly clogging up and risking some really big bites with the cupped carbide cutter. I don't think that it is any worse than similar tools with a guarded tip. I am generally happy with the way that it works on my boring bar rig. My only pain was the initial cost.

 

[Don O. Jr.]

I know a turner who uses his Munro tool in a Monster articulated rig. I've tried it and it works great. I have a tough time getting the guard adjusted for a reasonable cut on mine.

 

[john lucas]

Why not modify a Hunter Hercules or Osprey tool do the same thing without the cap. No adjustment needed and it takes a very controllable bite depending on how much you push. You also have the advantage of tilting the tool to get a cleaner cut. Or try the smaller Hunter #1 cutter in a Lyle Jamieson bar.

 

[Pete Blair]

Modified Hunter

Why not modify a Hunter Hercules or Osprey tool do the same thing without the cap. No adjustment needed and it takes a very controllable bite depending on how much you push. You also have the advantage of tilting the tool to get a cleaner cut. Or try the smaller Hunter #1 cutter in a Lyle Jamieson bar.

Hi John. I don't quite understand how one would modify the Hunter? are you suggesting adding a restrictor to the top of the tool?
Sketch?
Thanks!

 

[hockenbery]

Hi John. I don't quite understand how one would modify the Hunter? are you suggesting adding a restrictor to the top of the tool? Sketch? Thanks!

I have a set of Trent Bosch hollowing bars with the small Hunter tips.
I use then like scrapers they give a clean cut.
Only issue I have with these is the small cut that they take.
I prefer the HS Steel cutter which can take a 1/4" cut when removing material from the interior.

For a big hollowing rig a larger Hunter should do a nice job.

 

[john lucas]

Peter No the Hercules and Osprey tools should work good as they are although my thoughts are it would be possible to make the cutter bar shorter with a tenon so that it would fit into other tools. The Hunter #1 is simply a small cutter already mounted in a 3/16" bar so it will fit into tools like John Jordan's or Lyle Jamiersons. the small carbide cutter will cut very aggressively. I've thought about modifying a Hunter Osprey to fit a longer larger tool bar and that would fit into my copy of A Lyle Jamieson bar so that it could be used in a captured bar system. If i had my new shop built I would go out and build one and show you but that's at least 4 months away.

 

[Pete Blair]

Cutters

Thanks John. I guess I misunderstood what you had said sorry.
I do have a Kobra and have made or modified about 20 cutters down to a 3/16" dia.
I have one of the small hunters and have used it but now it is sitting in my home made sphere jig. Works great.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Peter No the Hercules and Osprey tools should work good as they are although my thoughts are it would be possible to make the cutter bar shorter with a tenon so that it would fit into other tools. The Hunter #1 is simply a small cutter already mounted in a 3/16" bar so it will fit into tools like John Jordan's or Lyle Jamiersons. the small carbide cutter will cut very aggressively. I've thought about modifying a Hunter Osprey to fit a longer larger tool bar and that would fit into my copy of A Lyle Jamieson bar so that it could be used in a captured bar system. If i had my new shop built I would go out and build one and show you but that's at least 4 months away.

One problem when using a captured bar hollowing rig is that you can't vary the tilt of the cutter on-the-fly. Mine will go up to 24" deep and the largest model of Steve Sinner's boring bar will go up to 36" deep. I am concerned that the small Hunter cutters could be more difficult to precisely control for getting a smooth bottom on a deep hollow form. Small cutters have a greater tendency to create a stalactite in the bottom, especially if the tool shank is curved.

Maybe a gun drill is the best option to drill the center, but no matter what I try, it seems like I too often have problems dealing with the bottom and creating a well where it's a real pain to get the cutter to cut across dead center.

 

[Hal Taylor]

At 24-36in. inside a hollow form, I would not be able to see a stalactite. 🙂