• January Turning Challenge: Thin-Stemmed Something! (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

I'm turning air and need advice

Joined
Jun 13, 2008
Messages
23
Likes
0
Location
Richmond Virginia
Last night I grabbed a chunk of maple that was a remnant cutoff of a hollow maple tree I have been learning with. The thing was ugly with voids, pits, punky spots etc, and my plan was just to continue practicing basic skills on a “Scrap†piece.

I also wanted to learn how wood reacts when turning those vessels that look like they should have flown apart due to all the voids. As this “Scrap†piece continued to spin, the voids etc. started to come to life. I few of the punky pieces flew off to underscore my thankfulness for the safety visor, and a little CA glue helped some pieces hold on (by the way, I learned to make sure it is dry before turning the lathe back on, a small CA shower did wonders for my education).

I’m amazed that this thing hasn’t flown apart yet, but it now has the basic shape of a vase, and tonight my plan is to attempt to hollow it. The piece is missing about 60-70% of where wood normally resides on the few other pieces I have hollowed, and how do I keep the other 30-40% from flying across the room? I thought about covering it with thick paper and tape on the outside as I hollow the inside, but in some places there isn’t enough wood to keep the paper out of the path of the hollowing tool.

Challenges tend to help me learn, and I’d appreciate any advice you could lend. I had trouble with my camera last night, but will attach a picture when possible (assuming the piece doesn’t explode and become the scrap I once thought it to be).

Thanks,
James
 
Saran wrap--not the kitchen variety, but the shipping wrap which you can get in a variety of widths works great. Wind it around opposite the lathe's direction of rotation, away from you at the top. Much easier to remove than tape, it's quite strong, and stays on pretty good.
 
I use blue painters tape for the base and then nylon strapping tape over that. The painters taper comes off easy and doesn't leave residue. The strapping tape will not break and will hold the vessel together. Be sure to wrap in clockwise so any loose ends won't pick up air and then unwind themselves. Rapidly. Don't ask how I know this.
When you have large void where the tape might interfere with the hollowing put some chicken wire or even coathanger wire over the void shaped like the vessel. Then put the strapping tape over this.
 
Thanks guy's,

I bought some stretch wrap and headed for the house. I didn't have any chicken wire but I use some thick craft paper and used it instead. So far I've drilled a depth hole, and began to hollow. This is a fantastic learning project as it is redefining "Light" cuts.

I've attached a picture before I wrapped to try to show what I described. I certainly appreciate you advice and hope to be able to post a complete picture.

Two more questions. Assuming a make it to the stage to finish the bottom, how will I reverse chuck this thing when the opening has missing areas and couldn't withstand much pressure? What kind of finish should I use since I won't be able to buff this thing?

Thanks again.
 

Attachments

  • hollow form.JPG
    hollow form.JPG
    36.9 KB · Views: 145
Two more questions. Assuming a make it to the stage to finish the bottom, how will I reverse chuck this thing when the opening has missing areas and couldn't withstand much pressure? What kind of finish should I use since I won't be able to buff this thing?

Thanks again.

Jam chuck. A dowel turned to fit in a scroll chuck if you have one, or with a reasonably well-fitted plug if not. Let the dowel press against the inside bottom of the piece while the tailstock provides assistance. Leave a small nubbin for the tailstock until the last moment; cut off by hand chisel or Dremel.

Gloss polyurethane spray would provide a nice finish without buffing, but satin finish might be better. One man's fish is another man's poisson (bad linguistic pun).

Joe
 
Thank You!!

Thank you all for the advice. I finished the piece this weekend without any flying bits. I must admit, I had to remind myself the breathe a few times as I made some of the final passes.

This piece of "Scrap" wood has helped me learn several things and so has your advice. This was only the 4th hollow form I've turned, and I am addicted.

I'm going to build myself a small photo tent, and post my first "Critigue" picture as soon as possible. Should I attach the request to this thread, or post to the members gallery?

Thanks again. My family is coming to my home next week for a woodworking vacation. They typically bring all sorts of project plans for me to build for them as we visit and relax. This year they are bringing blanks of various bits of wood they have collected and I am going to spray shavings all over them!
 
Please critique

Your're right. It was actually fun to watch the hollowing tool make a pass on the inside. Being able to see this helped me understand/work on my next piece and be able to produce a smoother finish on the inside. Still a lot to learn, but this is very addicting. I've attached the finished piece in the gallery and on this message. I'd appreciate all feedback to help me learn on the journey. Give me the good and the bad, it won't hurt my feelings.

Thanks for all the advice on this thread!!!
James
 

Attachments

  • Turning_Air.jpg
    Turning_Air.jpg
    12.7 KB · Views: 30
Back
Top