The thing is to get the wood thin enough that it will eventually dry. The longer it sits in a log or chunk, the more it will crack because it dries on the ends but not in the middle - so it shrinks differently and stresses the wood. The sealer (of whatever type) on the end grain will help slow down the drying, but won't stop it.
There are basically 2 common choices for bowls. Both start with green/wet wood, usually turned as soon as practical.
You can turn green to finish. Start with a wet blank and make a bowl. The thin walls will dry fairly quickly. The bowl will warp and move as it dries, so the end result won't be round - will be either oval or wavy or something. Usually you need to get a completed bowl in one session - even a lunch break will let the wood move and make it challenging to complete the process. And sanding usually needs to be done when the wood dries after a few days, so may have to be done by had as sanding an oval on the lathe is difficult at best.
Other option is twice turning. Turn a thick bowl from a green/wet blank. The norm is make the wall thickness 10% of the bowl diameter (so a 5" bowl would have 1/2" wall thickness). For most woods, this 10% will let the wood dry throughout, and there's enough material that once it's dry and oval, you can turn it a second time and there's still something round within that oval. Storing the thick bowls for drying is highly dependent on your environment (humidity, air movement, etc). Recommendations range from "just stack them" to paper bags to plastic to anchorseal ... Find another turner in your area (
join a club!) and start with what they do. Anyway, it may take between 9 and 18 months for it to dry. Frustrating when you're starting out to have to wait that long, I know.
Some like the randomness or oval of a green-turned bowl, some need their bowls to be round.