I tried my Lyle Jamieson System

[David Wyke]

Received the system Saturday, assembled, and watched videos all Saturday night. I should have practiced first but I jumped right into it😁.
This one measures 9-1/2” x 5” when I reduce the foot, and the entrance hole is 1-5/8”.
Did a few things right but had a hard time reaching the widest point of the form and I adjusted everything I could think of, the bar would hit the entrance hole and prevent the reach I needed. Not the tools fault but the operator. Top is around 1/8” thick and probably 1/4” at the widest part, bottom is good.
I should have started with a larger entrance hole and maybe not as wide. The important thing is I learned a lot and didn’t do too bad for my first piece. However no one with long fingers will hold the form😂. I’ll try the carbide on the next one and try it on a piece of cherry.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

nice form and good job. Keep posting so we can see the progress. I’ve been considering the system so this helps.

 

[David Wyke]

nice form and good job. Keep posting so we can see the progress. I’ve been considering the system so this helps.

Thank you! It is a first piece so hopefully I’ll improve. I really like the system.

 

[Lyle Jamieson]

Received the system Saturday, assembled, and watched videos all Saturday night. I should have practiced first but I jumped right into it😁.
This one measures 9-1/2” x 5” when I reduce the foot, and the entrance hole is 1-5/8”.
Did a few things right but had a hard time reaching the widest point of the form and I adjusted everything I could think of, the bar would hit the entrance hole and prevent the reach I needed. Not the tools fault but the operator. Top is around 1/8” thick and probably 1/4” at the widest part, bottom is good.
I should have started with a larger entrance hole and maybe not as wide. The important thing is I learned a lot and didn’t do too bad for my first piece. However no one with long fingers will hold the form😂. I’ll try the carbide on the next one and try it on a piece of cherry.
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Hi David, Thanks for sharing the photos. Great piece, beautiful shape. I wish my first hollow form looked that good. You picked a very difficult shape for the first piece using the captured boring bar. With the small entry hole and flat top there is a fiddle factor to reach it all. You can do any shape you like but some just take a lot more time to reach the entire inside shape with a nice clean surface. And the need to use all three of the reach capabilities of the hollowing system. Did you use the swivel cutter in the other end of the boring bar with the 45 degree hole, to get way over to the largest diameter?? May I suggest you review my DVD again and consider using a faceplate. A chuck is a weak link that might lead to some vibration issues with vessels that size. Keep in touch.

 

[Paul May]

A great start David! Love the form.

 

[Richard Coers]

Bent hollowing bars make that easier. I have both the Jamieson and a DIY articulated hollowing system that was based on the KOBRA design. I've worked through 5/8" holes with the KOBRA design and some custom tool bars. You can also hollow through the bottom and fill that hole with a plug of wood taken from the same blank. Then you can show a 1/4" hole in the top if you want to. There is also the late John Jordan's technique to hollow through a larger hole, then add a contrasting material to make a collar with a smaller opening.

 

[David Wyke]

Hi David, Thanks for sharing the photos. Great piece, beautiful shape. I wish my first hollow form looked that good. You picked a very difficult shape for the first piece using the captured boring bar. With the small entry hole and flat top there is a fiddle factor to reach it all. You can do any shape you like but some just take a lot more time to reach the entire inside shape with a nice clean surface. And the need to use all three of the reach capabilities of the hollowing system. Did you use the swivel cutter in the other end of the boring bar with the 45 degree hole, to get way over to the largest diameter?? May I suggest you review my DVD again and consider using a faceplate. A chuck is a weak link that might lead to some vibration issues with vessels that size. Keep in touch.

Thanks Lyle! I didn’t use the 45* bar but thought about it. I knew this was not the piece to start with but I’m hardheaded😁. I figured I’d see just how good I could do for a first attempt. I used every fiddle factor you show except the 45*😁. The maple was not a hard turn so I decided to give the chuck a go instead of the faceplate. I’ll use the faceplate for the next one and try an easier shape. The system works great and very happy with it, I just need more practice.

 

[David Wyke]

A great start David! Love the form.

Thank you!

 

[David Wyke]

Bent hollowing bars make that easier. I have both the Jamieson and a DIY articulated hollowing system that was based on the KOBRA design. I've worked through 5/8" holes with the KOBRA design and some custom tool bars. You can also hollow through the bottom and fill that hole with a plug of wood taken from the same blank. Then you can show a 1/4" hole in the top if you want to. There is also the late John Jordan's technique to hollow through a larger hole, then add a contrasting material to make a collar with a smaller opening.

I’m sure once I turn a few it will get easier and then go to more challenging pieces. I’ve seen the hollowing through the bottom and plugging but really don’t want to go that way. I like a challenge and can’t wait to try my next form.

 

[Dean Center]

For a wide hollow form, that's a really good result. Impressive. It took me about 8 years to feel competent as a wood turner, and another 5 to get over doing things the hard way. You're on your way!

 

[David Wyke]

For a wide hollow form, that's a really good result. Impressive. It took me about 8 years to feel competent as a wood turner, and another 5 to get over doing things the hard way. You're on your way!

Thank you, I have been turning for about 5 years however only halfway knew what I was doing for the last 2-1/2 years after finally watching some videos. Self taught and have a passion for turning( no longer build hobby furniture😁). The hollow form is something I really want to conquer and then get into more artistic pieces.

 

[Ted Pelfrey]

Received the system Saturday, assembled, and watched videos all Saturday night. I should have practiced first but I jumped right into it😁.
This one measures 9-1/2” x 5” when I reduce the foot, and the entrance hole is 1-5/8”.
Did a few things right but had a hard time reaching the widest point of the form and I adjusted everything I could think of, the bar would hit the entrance hole and prevent the reach I needed. Not the tools fault but the operator. Top is around 1/8” thick and probably 1/4” at the widest part, bottom is good.
I should have started with a larger entrance hole and maybe not as wide. The important thing is I learned a lot and didn’t do too bad for my first piece. However no one with long fingers will hold the form😂. I’ll try the carbide on the next one and try it on a piece of cherry.
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Great form on this piece, would love to see the bottom when finished!

 

[David Wyke]

Great form on this piece, would love to see the bottom when finished!

Thank you. I’ll posts the bottom once I finish it.

 

[Richard Coers]

I’m sure once I turn a few it will get easier and then go to more challenging pieces. I’ve seen the hollowing through the bottom and plugging but really don’t want to go that way. I like a challenge and can’t wait to try my next form.

Nothing wrong with going through the bottom. This one is 6" tall and weighs 2.9 ounces. 5/16" hole in the top. Pictures of the form and the bottom

 

[David Wyke]

Turned my second and third hollow forms today, both cherry.
First one I’m not happy with the shape but it was for practice. I was able to keep the walls a uniform thickness and measures 6-1/4 x 7-1/2.
Second one was harder but I kept the thickness uniform and used every piece of Lyle’s system 😁, measures 7/1/4 x10-1/4.
I’ve have a long ways to go but starting to get the hang of it.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Second pic from the top. I actually like that form. Inverted elegance. I do think the base could stand some refinement.

 

[David Wyke]

Second pic from the top. I actually like that form. Inverted elegance. I do think the base could stand some refinement.

Yes it could. I haven’t finished the base yet. Planning on doing that this week.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Like Lyle said, it takes some fiddling with all the options supplied with his system to figure out what configuration is best for various areas. Your forms look pretty good to me. The more you do the better you get.

 

[Graham Dolby]

Received the system Saturday, assembled, and watched videos all Saturday night. I should have practiced first but I jumped right into it😁.
This one measures 9-1/2” x 5” when I reduce the foot, and the entrance hole is 1-5/8”.
Did a few things right but had a hard time reaching the widest point of the form and I adjusted everything I could think of, the bar would hit the entrance hole and prevent the reach I needed. Not the tools fault but the operator. Top is around 1/8” thick and probably 1/4” at the widest part, bottom is good.
I should have started with a larger entrance hole and maybe not as wide. The important thing is I learned a lot and didn’t do too bad for my first piece. However no one with long fingers will hold the form😂. I’ll try the carbide on the next one and try it on a piece of cherry.
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I used the Stewart system bar for the piece to the left. The part is RS210 made by Sorby: https://federatedtool.com/robert-sorby-rs210-reversible-hooker-for-rs2000-system/

Oneway makes something similar: https://www.thewoodturningstore.com...-with-cutter-for-the-oneway-hollowing-system/

I don't know whether either of these would fit Lyle's system but I've made several similar bars for smaller openings from hot-rolled steel bars.

 

[David Wyke]

I used the Stewart system bar for the piece to the left. The part is RS210 made by Sorby: https://federatedtool.com/robert-sorby-rs210-reversible-hooker-for-rs2000-system/

Oneway makes something similar: https://www.thewoodturningstore.com...-with-cutter-for-the-oneway-hollowing-system/

I don't know whether either of these would fit Lyle's system but I've made several similar bars for smaller openings from hot-rolled steel bars.

Not sure if they would fit. Lyle has a 45* on one of the bars and it really helps with the reach.

 

[David Wyke]

I’ve finished 3 of the five hollow forms I’ve made. I have a question concerning pricing.
Do those who sell hollow forms price with a formula like used with bowls as a starting point?

 

[Richard Coers]

I have never charged by any formula for the last 35 years.

 

[Brian Gustin]

What Richard said - I usually just go by what I think it is worth to me, considering the wood, my time, and just by how it looks (Do I think it's pretty, etc.) - If it doesn't sell by the last market of the year, I appraise it for whether I feel it is good enough to go to the artisan center (and add a bit of markup to it) , otherwise I set it out next year with a marked down price. On the other hand, If they seem to sell quickly I will bump my starting prices up a touch, until it seems people will *almost* buy it but see the price and put it back down, then I can back off on it a bit. In other words, it is a moving target, no set formula.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

I’ve have a long ways to go

I think you are doing an amazing job.

 

[David Wyke]

I think you are doing an amazing job.

Thank you!

 

[David Wyke]

What Richard said - I usually just go by what I think it is worth to me, considering the wood, my time, and just by how it looks (Do I think it's pretty, etc.) - If it doesn't sell by the last market of the year, I appraise it for whether I feel it is good enough to go to the artisan center (and add a bit of markup to it) , otherwise I set it out next year with a marked down price. On the other hand, If they seem to sell quickly I will bump my starting prices up a touch, until it seems people will *almost* buy it but see the price and put it back down, then I can back off on it a bit. In other words, it is a moving target, no set formula.

I do a similar pricing but use the basic formula as a starting point for bowls. I was just wondering if there was a basic starting point for hollow forms.

 

[Richard Coers]

I do a similar pricing but use the basic formula as a starting point for bowls. I was just wondering if there was a basic starting point for hollow forms.

You've turned 3 now, you should have a pretty good idea how much time it will take. Why not charge based on time instead of a guess?

 

[DON FRANK]

I'm pretty sure I can speak for most of us. I wish my first three hollow forms looked that nice.

 

[Darryl Fective]

I'm pretty sure I can speak for most of us. I wish my first three hollow forms looked that nice.

I agree, those look awesome!

 

[Ric Williams]

Just curious, what finish did you use on the completed ones? They all look great!

 

[David Wyke]

I'm pretty sure I can speak for most of us. I wish my first three hollow forms looked that nice.

Thank you! I figured by starting with a tougher shape I could learn more even if it took me longer to complete. Some great looking hollow forms on this site and I know I have a lot more to learn. Since I have about 120 bowls drying I thought this would be a good time to start learning hollow forms!

 

[David Wyke]

I agree, those look awesome!

Thank you!

 

[David Wyke]

Just curious, what finish did you use on the completed ones? They all look great!

I applied two coats of Tried and True Danish Oil, once dry I applied 3 coats of satin lacquer. The fourth coat was semi gloss which I picked up by mistake and after this photo was taken I applied another coat of satin to bring the sheen down some.

 

[David Wyke]

Hollow form #7, end grain red cedar, 11-1/4” x 7-3/4”. Weight is 1pound 2 oz., may need to put some marbles in the bottom so it’s not easy to knock over. Still working on shapes.
Just using this thread to document my progress, feel free to ignore 😂

 

[David Wyke]

Hollow form number eight, 11 x 7, weight 1.6 pounds before drying time. I’m really liking the @Lyle Jamieson system!
And, I just sold a system for him😁

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Hollow form number eight, 11 x 7, weight 1.6 pounds before drying time. I’m really liking the @Lyle Jamieson system!
And, I just sold a system for him😁

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You’re doing amazingly well. Are you using a visualizer, laser, or just calipers? How thick is wall?

 

[David Wyke]

You’re doing amazingly well. Are you using a visualizer, laser, or just calipers? How thick is wall?

Thank you! I am using the laser currently. The walls are around 3/16.
I really like doing the hollow forms and trying to improve with each one.