Several years ago I cut down some small maple trees, and left the logs in 4' to 6' lengths. Recently I cut them into more managable lengths, and today I've got a whole bunch of spalted maple logs ranging in diameter from 5" to 8", and lengths from 8" to 14" or more. I took a few and stripped the bark, cut off the checked ends and waxed the ends, but still quickly lost some from checks running lengthwise. There is some beautiful, spalted maple in there, and it will make some great boxes, candlesticks and small bowls, and I want to preserve as much of it as I can. What is the best way to dry these blanks? Thanks in advance... By the way, I'm new to the forum, and although a woodworker going back years and years, I'm giving turning a try again.
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I need advice on drying wood...
- Thread starter Ziffy
- Start date
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Ziffy
I rip or split the logs through the heart and seal the ends. This saves some. For the last 3 years I have been cutting these into 12 to 16" lengths and then ripping them on the bandsaw to 4x4, 3x3 2x2 and 1x1 strips. I seal the ends. After several years of this I am getting a collection of dry timber in sizes just right for spindle and box turning.
I started this after having a bunch of pieces that I was saving for bowls go bad. I didn't want to toss the wood so I ripped out all the good wood into sizes I might use.
I rip or split the logs through the heart and seal the ends. This saves some. For the last 3 years I have been cutting these into 12 to 16" lengths and then ripping them on the bandsaw to 4x4, 3x3 2x2 and 1x1 strips. I seal the ends. After several years of this I am getting a collection of dry timber in sizes just right for spindle and box turning.
I started this after having a bunch of pieces that I was saving for bowls go bad. I didn't want to toss the wood so I ripped out all the good wood into sizes I might use.
for maple that diameter, you'll almost always get a split if you leave in the pith. Cutting to 2-3ft lengths then only cutting off the ends when you're ready to turn it helps a little but you still have to turn it hollow and thin or it will split even then. The suggestion to mill out the pith is the best one to save wood.
Dietrich
Dietrich
dkulze said:
I'm in the same situation as Ziffy. I have some small log/branches about 4" to 6" in diameter. I'm thinking about drilling out the pith but I'm wondering what size hole and how am I going to mount the piece on the lathe once it's dry. If the hole is too big the centers have nothing to grab. If the hole is too small I may not get out all the pith. Any suggestions?
Personal opinion....
There's so much wood available out there that, unless the 4-6" logs have a special quality (burls, amazing figure, hard to get wood, came from a tree with personal connection), it's usually not worth the trouble. At this point, I work mostly with pieces milled off much larger trees at the local log disposal yard. A sawn off piece of a large log is usually much more stable that a smaller full trunk or branch.
Good luck,
Dietrich
There's so much wood available out there that, unless the 4-6" logs have a special quality (burls, amazing figure, hard to get wood, came from a tree with personal connection), it's usually not worth the trouble. At this point, I work mostly with pieces milled off much larger trees at the local log disposal yard. A sawn off piece of a large log is usually much more stable that a smaller full trunk or branch.
Good luck,
Dietrich
Dietrich beat me to expressing the same opinion. I just cut a nice 6" branch off our silver maple 2 days ago. The wood is clean, unstressed, and fresh. But it's much easier to work with the larger more stable cuts I get from local tree trimmers.
There is nothing special about the grain in the 6" maple branch. However I've encountered and used 5" diameter branches from cedar elm which have much more character...so I used them. So it depends on the wood, but generally 9" and larger are worth the time.
There is nothing special about the grain in the 6" maple branch. However I've encountered and used 5" diameter branches from cedar elm which have much more character...so I used them. So it depends on the wood, but generally 9" and larger are worth the time.
The trunk is lumber. Thje branches firewood.
High of 42 here yesterday but I am nice and warm thanks to those branches. 😀
High of 42 here yesterday but I am nice and warm thanks to those branches. 😀
many thanks...
I appreciate all of your input... I figure you're all propbably right... But, I've got a lot of practicing to do, and probably a lot of mistakes to make. Several of the pieces look pretty stable, so we'll just see what comes out. Who know, maybe something cool will come out of one of the pieces...
another quick question... and maybe I should post another thread for this, but what is a minimun speed for a grinder wheel? I've got an old 1/4 horse motor that I can attach a grinding wheel to, but it only spins at about 1750 rpm. Think that's fast enough?
Ziffy
I appreciate all of your input... I figure you're all propbably right... But, I've got a lot of practicing to do, and probably a lot of mistakes to make. Several of the pieces look pretty stable, so we'll just see what comes out. Who know, maybe something cool will come out of one of the pieces...
another quick question... and maybe I should post another thread for this, but what is a minimun speed for a grinder wheel? I've got an old 1/4 horse motor that I can attach a grinding wheel to, but it only spins at about 1750 rpm. Think that's fast enough?
Ziffy
1750 is plenty fast. Actually it's just great. You don't want the grinder wheels to go too fast or they will end up heating your gouges and burning the tips.