I 'm going to purchase a CBN Wheel..but. Which one??

[Michael Lyle]

They are all alike right????

Maybe I need help selecting a CBN wheel. 8" ....

Any one got any ideas??

MLyle

 

[Bill Boehme]

There are several variations such as rounded edges or square edges. You also need to decide what grit is best for you. I would search for recommendations by Reed Gray (Robo Hippy). You could search "robo hippy" and keywords "CBN grit". Here is one of his recommendations.

 

[Roger Chandler]

I’ve had CBN for several years now. If it were me, and I was only able to get one wheel, it would be 180 grit. If you have a good AO wheel or blue Norton for reshaping a grind, then maybe a 220 grit. Most woods will dull the higher grit edges on a tool fairly quickly. They all have their place, but for putting a fresh edge on a grind 180 or 220 grit is an all purpose, tried and true solution.

Now if you’re getting two wheels, and plan to keep your Aluminum Oxide wheels on a different grinder, then maybe 180 and 320 grit. I personally see little value in grits over 320.

 

[hockenbery]

I use an 80 and a 180.
The 80 for my 1/2” bowl gouges(5/8 bar diameter)
The 180 for everything else.

If I had to have just one CBN it would be the 180. It will do ok on the bowl gouges.

For bowl gouges the 80 is a little faster and leaves a better cutting edge sort of micro serrated.
You can always add the 80 later.

 

[Paul M. Kaplowitz]

I have D-Way's CBN wheels. 2 - 80 Grit. One set for bowls gouges, one for scrapers. Have used them for about 5 years and are happy with them.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

I have two 180 grit wheels, one set up with the oneway gouge jig and the other with a platform. It does take a long time to reshape a profile on the 180, so access to a coarse wheel for occasional work is helpful, though not essential. I do it so seldom that I just swap an AlOx wheel on when I need it.

Since learning to use a diamond hone (the teardrop shaped card from Alan Lacer) and how to raise a burr with a burnisher on scrapers I'm going to the grinder less than a tenth as often as I used to. Saves a ton of time (and tool steel, though that's not a major concern) and gives a much sharper edge and correspondingly better results. Doing it again now I'd consider a coarser wheel, though there is little drawback to the 180.

 

[Dave Landers]

I have 2 180s, an 80 and 220. I have both square and rounded corners, and two have flats on the sides. Two grinders because I got tired of changing platforms etc. Both grinders are the low end Rikon low speed models.

If I could have only one wheel it would be the 180 with rounded corners and flats on the sides, assuming I had a traditional wheel for shaping. That’s how I started and it worked out. My second wheel was the 80 which is good for sharpening and adequate for minor shaping.

I got all my wheels from Woodturners Wonders cause they seemed to have the best prices and a good reputation.

 

[Owen Lowe]

I also have D-Way wheels on my 1800rpm grinder -- 180 & 360 -- and really like them. I've no experience with other brands but have no complaints whatsoever about the D-Way wheels. When I bought mine, Dave really steered me away from grits higher than 360; he said he didn't see any need for 600 for wood turning. He then showed me the freshly ground edge quality of 360 vs. 600 and it was really such a minuscule difference with less versatility in speed and heat gain. There is a break-in period with CBN where the roughness evens out, meaning they feel coarser when new and give off a fair bit of dust. Once you break off those surface crystals they perform very predictably and consistently.

In use, it's no exaggeration that I use the 360 wheel probably 99% of the time when refreshing an edge. The 180 wheel is only used for reshaping a profile, which doesn't happen very often.

 

[robo hippy]

Bill's link up above, to a thread a while back, pretty much covers it. the wheels I use the most: 180 and 600. Wheels I use the least: 80 and 1000. I am still mystified by the debate about more serrated/coarser grit = better cutting/longer life and less serrated/finer grit = longer life and cleaner cuts. Makes me think of the old Miller Beer commercials.... Less filling/tastes great.... I have just about all D Way wheels. I still don't like the radius edges. Saw Stuart Batty earlier this year and he commented that the wheels go for about 5 years for a production turner. I would agree with that, as I have one set that would just polish the bevel and not really cut/refresh the edge, and they were over 5 years old. Might have been the first set I got from D Way. I have no clue as to there being any real quality difference between the D Way, Ken Rizza/Woodturner's Wonders, Optigrind, or Cuttermaster wheels. Probably minimal for the average turner.

robo hippy

 

[Owen Lowe]

I still don't like the radius edges.

Not correcting Robo's post, just clarifying that D-Way offers both square edge and radius edge wheels.

 

[Dean Center]

One other thing to consider, Mike, is the mass of the wheels. If you have a bargain import grinder, the grinder will take a while to get up to speed with heavier wheels. If you're not in a hurry, this may not be a problem. If it's a concern, there are aluminum wheels with some weight saving.

 

[GRJensen]

I have an 80 for shaping and a 180 for honing. Bought my CBN wheels from Woodturners Wonders a little over 6 years ago ... happy as a clam with them.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I have an 80 and one 180. When Mike Mahoney visited me he asked me why I have the 180? e has all 80's On my second grinder I have an 80 and one rubber expandable wheel with Aluminum Z wheels so I can grind some old tools that are carbon steel.

 

[Michael Lyle]

Thanks All very informative...

I just purchased a Rikon bench grinder.8 “
So I think I will start checking out all the vendors
That have been mentioned.
I will buy just one for now prob a 180...grit
So now I need to determine what of the diff styles
To choose from. I think I want a wider than 1 “
Wheel. I m very bad at sharpening my gouges
So I have to get going on the sharpening

thnx all

 

[Richard Aldrich]

I was also not very good at sharpening. I like the wider flat wheel from dway. I did not get a radius because it takes away from the width. I think the extra width and non radius allows me to do a better job on the wings of my bowl gauges and spindle gauges. Especially the 5/8 and 1/2 bowl gauges. I have an 80 and a 180. Use and like both. Would like to try the 360. The intrigue is not yet strong enough for a purchase on the 360.

 

[Philip Rose]

I have an 80 and one 180. When Mike Mahoney visited me he asked me why I have the 180? e has all 80's On my second grinder I have an 80 and one rubber expandable wheel with Aluminum Z wheels so I can grind some old tools that are carbon steel.

I've heard this before about other National turners, and I always wonder why -- how much that thinking is tied to the type of work they do, for example

 

[robo hippy]

Mike Mahoney likes the 'more serrated' edge for cutting. Glenn Lucas likes the 600 or so grit edge. I have had a few pieces of wood that cut much more cleanly with the 600 grit edge than the 180 grit edge. As I said, 180 will work for 90% of what you will ever cut, and the leather hone wheel on my Tormek can take care of the rest, though it takes less time to hone out a 600 grit bevel than it does an 80 grit bevel. As near as I can tell, the coarser grit edge holds up better for heavy roughing, and the finer edge does not take that abuse. Others will dispute this.

Oh, after thoughts here on grinders... I consider the 1/2 hp Rikon to be under powered for how I would use it. I did concrete construction for years, and prefer things to be overbuilt rather than underbuilt, which is why my forms never blew up, well after I learned. The 1 hp Rikon is a far better grinder for the shop. It isn't near the quality of a Baldor 3/4 slow speed grinder, but you can buy 3 or 4 of the Rikon for the price of one Baldor.

robo hippy

 

[Michael Lyle]

I did get the 1 hp Rikon...looks like a monster compared to my
Delta 6" ....
And I have the Oneway Wolverine on the way.....hoping the jig
will help with my gouge sharpening..

I also have the Carter & Son Wood Beater 5/8 gouge...Which though i have yet to grind a great edge on it...is such good steel
it cuts really easily.

And of course the smaller gouges get more use than the
wood beater....so i need to perfect the edge i put on the 1/2" and
3/8" gouge.

I have watched on Youtube a number of turners in "how to" vids on
sharpening....i am beginning to think I should get with a
tutor....

This discussion has been great for me.....
Thank you all for chiming in your 2 cents.....
I am fortunate to be in this forum with all the most
big brained woodturners on the planet.....

MLyle

 

[Michael Lyle]

My CBN wheel choice i think is an 8" square edge 180 grit...

Not sure about Aluminum or steel yet.....

I need to reread this thread again.....as yall have provided
me with so much great info....

 

[Dean Center]

Mike, If you have the 1 hp Rikon grinder, you shouldn't have problems with steel wheels from the most popular vendors.

 

[Mike Johnson]

If you had the 1/2HP you would most likely want to go with the aluminum wheels.

 

[Michael Lyle]

I was thinking of the D-Way wheels I think they are they are
steel.....

 

[Michael Lyle]

and ...D-Way is close to me here in Washington....just across
the sound.......

 

[robo hippy]

Jimmy Allen, who now owns D Way is a great guy. With my 1 hp Rikon, I had to put a 5/8 or 3/4 shim under the Wolverine base to get it up to height. I did remove the rubber feet and bolted it to plywood. I also took off the light they had on it, since it is pretty much totally worthless... I have a couple of sharpening videos up as well, but mostly I just use the platform. I totally forgot how to use jigs.... There are a number of clubs up that way, get in touch with them.... You can't beat hands on teaching. If you ever get down Eugene way, let me know.

robo hippy

 

[Mike Johnson]

As Robo mentioned above, removing the rubber feet from grinders is a must when using grinding jigs and sharpening long tools on a grinder. Leaving the rubber feet on the grinder provides too much "flex" in the setup which can quickly "eat" the edge of the tool being sharpened into the grinding wheel and ruin your day.

 

[Dennis J Gooding]

I was thinking of the D-Way wheels I think they are they are
steel.....

Don't sell the 1/2 hp Rikon slow speed grinder short. I have two grinders and my go-to is the Rikon fitted with two 8" D-way wheels and which has operated flawlessly for over two years. The only minor drawback is that it takes 4-5 seconds to come up to speed. To me, that is not a problem. I turn it on before fitting the tool into a sharpening jig or adjusting the sharpening platform. If I expect to require frequent sharpening, I simply let the grinder run continuously.

 

[Richard Hodsdon]

I have a 180grit CBN wheel (200mm Steel)from Axminister. Been using it for about a year now and it works a charm. Have the old 120 white wheel on the other side if a High speed grinder (My slow speed Woodcraft rig burnt out , and here in South Africa (220V) they are scarcer than hens teeth) Like Dennis above it does take a while to get to speed but it is as steady as a rock. One question how often and is it necessary to clean a CBN wheel. And what do you use. I see Axminister sell a cleaning stick/bar which I am considering gettin when my son goes over tto the UK on business in Feb.

 

[robo hippy]

Well as for cleaning the CBN wheels, it varies.... My first set, before the electroplated ones were available, was about 3/16 inch of a CBN matrix bonded to an aluminum hub. Woodcraft used to have a diamond one that was similar. This wheel did need to be cleaned because metal would load up on the surface. The place I got them from gave me some very hard aluminum oxide chunks to clean the wheel off with. I believe it is the same material as offered by a couple of suppliers for the modern electroplated wheels. Personally I won't bother with them, as the only thing they really do is put a lot of ALO dust into the air. The modern CBN wheels don't load up with metal on the surface, unless you grind softer metals on them. What does load up on the surface of the wheel is 'gunk' from the wood you turn. If you turn a lot of wet wood, this can be a bit of a problem. For me, most of the time I don't bother to clean it off. What I do, is regularly apply a bit of lapping fluid or light oil, to the bevel of the tool being sharpened, then sharpen as normal. This does a lot to help lift the gunk off of the surface. Note here, I don't apply the fluid directly to the wheel because it sprays all over the place. This is generally enough to keep the wheel clean enough to still cut well. In the event that you want the wheel to look better, according to Dave Schweitzer, the original owner of D Way, you take the wheel off the grinder, put it in a bucket, cover with water, add detergent, let soak for an hour or two, brush off with a stiff bristle brush, and put back on the grinder. I consider having a bit of 'color' on the wheel to being normal.

In the event that you do get some soft metal on the wheel, you can feel the tool start to bounce as you sharpen. So, to clean that off, again, apply some lapping fluid to the bevel of a heavy scraper, and sharpen the scraper. You may have to do it several times, depending on how badly your wheel is loaded up. I experimented once with an old wheel that was pretty much worn out. I left a very visible stripes of aluminum, copper, brass, and steel on the wheel, then went back to sharpening as normal. All visible traces gone in about a month. Do save an ALO wheel for softer metals though, it just makes things easier.

robo hippy

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

If your grinder gets up to speed slowly you can give it a spin before flipping th switch and reduce the initial load. I have the grinder Woodcraft sold before it was Rikin and it may be a unbranded Rikin because it looks like it. Been going about 14 years and no problems. I have had Al CBN on it for two years now.

 

[Daniel Miller]

I'd throw my hat in the ring for https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/cbn-wheels. I purchased one of their wheels for my Tormek and it's been excellent! Ken Rizza, the owner, is extremely knowledgeable of CBN wheels and was very helpful when I goofed and ended up ordering the incorrect wheel for my Tormek!

 

[Russell Nugent]

I just ordered the 80 and 180 Spartans. Hopefully they work out well. And hopefully don't get killed by customs.

 

[Richard Hodsdon]

Thanks Reed, for the great advce on cleaning.
Richard

 

[Rob Price]

I just bought the mega square wheels from woodturners wonders and I’m very happy with them. The flat on the side is a great feature. I’ll stay out of the grit debate, I’m still trying to figure out which grit I like best. I went just planning on getting one higher grit wheel but they had some scratch and dent stuff on clearance so I bought 600 and 350 grits. I already have their Spartan 220 and 80. We’ll see how they compare.

 

[Michael Lyle]

So many choices.....so little time...

I still have not purchased a wheel yet..
As my stove / range went out so I had to
Buy a new range...
So now I have to wait for my money tree
To bloom.

Life always gets in the way.

Uh oh power just went out!!!

later

Mlyle

 

[GRJensen]

So now I have to wait for my money tree
To bloom.

Wow! You have a money tree? When it blooms, send me some seeds! LOL