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Hunter Tool vs. Eliminator

Joined
Oct 6, 2007
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Hi, I don't want to hijack the Hunter Tool thread, so I will start a new one. Has anyone out there used both the Hunter Tool and the Eliminator? How do they compare? They look from the pictures like they both have sort of a raised lip around the edge of the carbide. Is that true? Thanks.
 
I have the Eliminator, and have only seen the Hunter tools. The only difference that I can see is that the Elimintor is only available in straight configurations while the Hunter comes with a goose neck variety.
robo hippy
 
I have both with the straight shaft, and have used them for almost 2 years.

Everything that has been said about the Hunter tool, both good and bad, can be said about the Eliminator. They have the same style cutter, and make the same type cut. The difference is in the tool shank. The Eliminator has a 3/4" shaft that is tapered down to a smaller diameter cutter tip, and has two flats milled along its length to automatically orient the tool at a 45-degree presentation to the wood. The Eliminator is longer and is turned down to 1/2" at the end to accept a tool handle. The Hunter I have has a 1/2" diameter straight shaft.

Which one you prefer would be a matter of personal preference. Having used both, I personally prefer the Hunter because it doesn't have the flats and I can orient the tip to the wood any way I want without the flats getting in the way, and the straight shaft allows me to make any tool length I want with a Oneway tool handle.

To me, the Eliminator is too long with a handle attached to the 1/2" stub on the end, and a handle with a 3/4" bore that will grip on the tool shaft is way too big and heavy. I usually use it as-is without a handle.

Note that my preference is based on the tool shaft and the handle attached to it, and not the cutter. The cutters are the same and do the same thing.

Others will have a different answer to your question.
 
I have not use the eliminator but have handled it. I have a bunch of hunter tools. As Russ said they have the same cutter and both look like they are polished or you might call it sharpened, on the top. I like the Hunter because I use the cuttter in several different angle for different cuts.
My favorite is the new 5/8" tool that tapers down to 3/8" and has the 3/8" cutter. It's just the right length for a lot of things and doesn't vibrate. I liked the #4 a lot but it's easy to get too aggresive with the cutter and get some chatter. My #3 that I mounted in the 3/4" bar has the same chatter when extended very far and I think it is because of the 3/8" shaft. The new tool solves both of these problems.
The new crooked tool is great for reaching under boxes with lips and hollowing.
I really like the #1 used in my arm brace or Jamieson style rig. I also have a couple of custom tools that I made from #1 cutters that I use for hollowing christmas ornaments.
to answer your question I like the Hunter better because it's less expensive and you can roll it easier. The Eliminator is a really beautiful tool and those I talked to that own one like them.
 
I have the Eliminator, and have only seen the Hunter tools. The only difference that I can see is that the Elimintor is only available in straight configurations while the Hunter comes with a goose neck variety.
robo hippy

Robo,
You say the only difference is the Eliminator does not have the hook tool option. I met the maker of the Eliminator at the Utah Symposium, he said that they are going to come out with a hook tool soon.
They both look like pretty good tools to me, the only advantage I see of the Eliminator over the Hunter is the thicker bar, the disadvantage of the Eliminator is those flats which do not give you the option to choose what angle you want.
Thanks
Wyatt
 
The Novice

I have been turning for less than a year and have only used my straight shaft gouges and scrapers for hollowing. I am now thinking of buying a bent shaft hollowing tool. The above posts talk of the Eliminator or the Hunter tool and it would seem that the hunter is the more favored because of the round shaft. My question would be what size would you recommend and is it wise to purchase the bent shaft for my first experience with a hollowing tool. Most of my work has been with vessels and boxes with a depth of 5 to 8 inches. I am really getting tired of scraping the right side of the opening trying to reach around a corner to hollow. My present lathe will only take up to 12" swing.
 
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... it would seem that the hunter is the more favored because of the round shaft. ...

That was the problem I had with the "Little Wonder Cup" tool when I first got it. Because it had a round shaft I found it difficult to maintain a consistent cutting angle (lots of catches) because the tool tended to roll and violate the desired 45 degree cutting angle. Maybe it was just my old hands getting tired and weak. The Eliminator appears to have addressed that problem so, if I were making the choice from between these two, I think it'd be the Eliminator
 
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I would say you must have rolled the tool toward the flat or horizontal plane. If you start around 45 degrees it's just a ballpark. I use the Hunter tool from about 35 degrees to60 or 70 depending on the cut I want. I actually flatten it out to do an undercut rim. Not totally flat because that is what leads to a catch bit probably around 30 or 35 degrees of horizontal. at this angle it becomes more of a scraper.
I have a friend who has the eliminator and he says that he doesn't have any trouble rolling it to other angles if necessary.
I have only used the new bent hunter tool for a week or so and it's pretty nice. It is a little more grabby than my homemade scraping tools and I think it is because the cutter is slightly beyond the center line of the tool. These tools are designed to be used with the tool rest on the straight part of the shank, not the curved part. The cutting tip ideally should be aligned with the center of the straight part of the shank to eliminate the torquing movement of the tool. If you put the curved part of the shank on the tool rest you will get a huge amount of torque or twisting of the tool with either the Hunter or any of the scraper tools.
 
Personally, I like the flat sides of the Eliminator. It keeps the tool at the right angle. I never felt the need to change the angle. The round tool is more prone to rolling.
robo hippy
 
I don't have any trouble at all with the tool rolling unless I want to roll it. I also use it backwards to clean up the bottom center portion of some turnings. By that I mean I will have the tool rolled to the right and cut from the outside into the middle. I find this extremely useful for cleaning up the center nub that we always fight.
I feel like we are just beginning to learn all the different ways to use these tools.
 
The Novice

Thank you all for your thoughts on this type of tool. I am starting to think the Eliminator might be the better choice for a less experienced turner, simply because of the flats to orient the tool to the correct angle. I am going to attend meetings at the East Texas woodturners and perhaps will get a chance to try one or both tools. Does anyone know when the bent shaft Eliminator will be available?
 
I'm going to change the subject slightly. I was looking at the new Munro tools and wondering if anyone's tried them. I like the idea of an adjustable curve, but I was wondering if an extended curve wouldn't make the tool prone to twisting.

Of course, I could always pop the tool in my McNaughton rig, which would stabilize it, but who wants to by a tool that needs a 20 lb boat anchor to work satisfactorily?

Marc
 
I wish I had the video done that I'm working on because it shows how I use the roll of the Hunter tool to my advantage. I shear scrape with it and for one cut use it almost vertical, never horizontal that's how you get a catch. It's just like any tool in that it works when you rub the bevel.
I'm brand new at using a video camera and My son is coming over to trouble shoot the problem I'm having downloading the thing. I think it's computer related but I don't know for sure. It might be a week or so to work out the bugs and get a properly edited video without my head in the way of the camera and other problems related to the learning. I left it in record and have some excellent audio of me cussing at the camera. 🙂
With the video I hope to show how I use the tools in various ways and hopefully discuss some of the advantages of this tool. It's definitely not a one tool does it all but it sure has it's place.
 
I'm going to change the subject slightly. I was looking at the new Munro tools and wondering if anyone's tried them. I like the idea of an adjustable curve, but I was wondering if an extended curve wouldn't make the tool prone to twisting.

Of course, I could always pop the tool in my McNaughton rig, which would stabilize it, but who wants to by a tool that needs a 20 lb boat anchor to work satisfactorily?

Marc

Hi Marc,

I have both Munro tools. I think they are great. As with any tool, using them properly is the key. Rolly Munro says that there are three main rules for his tool. They are: "Keep the cutter sharp, sharpen the cutter, and finally, make sure the cutter is sharp." Apart from that, like any other ring-type tool, you you must bring the bevel into contact and roll the tool into its cutting position. I advise taking light cuts because the tool cuts so fast. If used properly, it will leave a very smooth surface. If you don't use it properly or expose too much of the cutting edge, it will tend to be very aggressive and possibly catch. So just take light cuts, create shavings instead of dust and finish faster. I really like this tool(both sizes).

Matt
 
I wish you had the video done too!!! I've had a hunter tool for years and after some bad initial experiences it sat in the drawer until I realized it could be used to shear scrape.

Marc

I wish I had the video done that I'm working on because it shows how I use the roll of the Hunter tool to my advantage. I shear scrape with it and for one cut use it almost vertical, never horizontal that's how you get a catch. It's just like any tool in that it works when you rub the bevel.
 
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