How to marry a Wolverine to a 1" strip sander?

[Carol Reed]

I want to use my 1" strip sander (has to be good for something!) to sharpening my turning tools. I put Lee Valley's blue zirconium belt on it. I also put a slow speed motor on it.

I can do everything but bowl gouges and skews.

I do have a Wolverine but sure would like to see some pictures and read some commentary about this set-up.

Thanks.

 

[Bart Leetch]

Carol

Really you shouldn't have to look to far for a minister with a degree in routeroligy to take them down that route.😱🙂😀

Have you tried using the sander & the Jig & some pieces of scrap wood to mock it up to see what you can do? I don't have a strip sander so can't help you out .

 

[Jake Debski]

Carol,

I don't own a strip sander, but a base for the Wolverine, riser blocks, and a second base above to secure the sander should do.



________________ sander/w belt_______________
l_<spacers>_____l_<sp>_l wolverine_______l_<spacer set back to
access locking lever

You will need to experiment somewhat to find the most optimal placement for the jig base, front to back.

I'm sure some of the engineers that frequent the forum can offer some improvements to the basic idea,and certainly the "drawering." 🙂

 

[Bill Boehme]

... I do have a Wolverine but sure would like to see some pictures and read some commentary about this set-up.

I think that you have an original idea. Implementing it should be a piece of cake since you have already visualized what you want it to do.

... Really you shouldn't have to look to far for a minister with a degree in routeroligy to take them down that route.

Thanks, you evil man. 😀 That was my exact thought when I saw the title. Wonder what the bride will wear?

... I'm sure some of the engineers that frequent the forum can offer some improvements to the basic idea ...

I don't have an "improvement" to offer -- just a thought. Make sure that there is a solid backer behind the part of the belt where the tool touches it to prevent the tool edge from developing too much of a convex edge. The backer plate could even have a slight convex shape so that the tool edge would be slightly concave. The backer could be wood covered with graphite cloth to reduce friction.

The whole project sounds like a fairly simple to make jig and since you have all of the necessary ingredients, just put together a mock-up of the fixture and move things around until you have what you want. After that, build a permanent fixture.

 

[Carol Reed]

Bart, you misspelled 'routerology.' Bad boy. 😛 But then that was a BS degree! The ministry degree is a Master's degree! And there are more (bad) puns in those two statements than are apparent! 😀

But to "turn" back to the topic at hand...

I like the idea of putting a slight radius on the platen to aid to concave grind. And I like the idea of using wooden blanks to simulate grinds.

The Wolverine sits directly under the wheel a specified distance from the vertical center of the wheel, according to the installation directions. The problem with the strip sander is that the sander is much taller than a eight inch grinder.

I appreciate all the ideas and the brain is 'grinding away' 😀 at them all. Keep them coming. I'll get back to it on Monday.

Tomorrow I am otherwise occupied. No marriages. Just a simple Holy Communion service. :cool2:

 

[john lucas]

Carol I tore my shop apart yesterday looking for the jig I set up on my 2" belt sander. Apparently I used that part for some other jig somewhere else. It attached to the bolt holes for the original tool rest and hung down to about where the Oneway V jig would sit. I just used the Wolverine jig in that.

 

[DOCworks]

1 inch belt sander

Carol,
I have a 1" belt sander and use it for Wood and metal. I haven't tried using a wolverine jig, but use a bunch of other stuff on it. I'm in the middle of making a KMG type sanding rig as I'm making more and more of my jigs and tools. My 1" is a POS, really noisy, but it works and for many thing much better than the grinder. Belts are cheap and after they are used I keep them because they work really well sharpening knives for SWMBO. 🙂 Having a platen behind the belt where you sharpen is critical as you run the risk of destroying the belt and worse have a blade with a curve ( instead of | or ) bevel. Most come with a simple one, but I've seen folks move the tool above it in unsupported areas. There is a reason for doing that but not when you are sharpening a tool or knife. I have some 3/4" square tube I'll see if I can come up with something tonight. I need to fire up the mig welder and see if I can scare the cats.😱
Bill

 

[Carol Reed]

Today, the Wolverine base was mounted under the sander. There was barely enough room to lock the base, but it worked. Added a backer to the platen and a stop to control the flex.

Started with an 80 grit belt but it leaves a burr. The 120 did much better. But the leather belt charged with the green stick is just awesome! I ran the 1/4" BG thru the 120 grit and leather belts. Had a piece of alder on the lathe that had been used as a jam chuck on the last bowl. That BG seemed to be removing wood before it touched the piece. End grain was as smooth as a baby's butt!

I am going to love this set-up. Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions. It was very helpful and encouraging.

 

[Bart Leetch]

Come on Carol how about a picture don't want to call you on that one degree you mentioned we really need to see your creation.

You see I remember sitting under the tree at the BBQ in Sophie's back yard up here in Custer Washington swapping stories with you .😱🙂😀

 

[Carol Reed]

Hey Bart!

We were talking about Sophie yesterday. Dave and Sandy Smith from Longview were here visiting and helped me with the sander. They have been wintering in Mesa, AZ.

Sophie's BBQ was my first venture in turning. Remember Wally getting me going? Good times! I do remember meeting you then. Sophie and Beckie have moved but it is hard to get a hold of them.

About pictures. I'll try to do that this week. Promise. :cool2: