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How is an inverter programmed?

Joined
Nov 26, 2009
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Location
Rockingham, Virginia
Hi all,

I thought that I would ask some of you that have knowledge in this area of electronics:

How is an inverter on a lathe programmed? What equipment is used to do so, and are there certain parameters that produce torque at low rpm's etc.

I am trying to find out if my G0698 is reprogrammable to eliminate the pulsing at low rpm. Anyone with understanding of how this is done, or how it can be obtained would be appreciated.

I don't know if I am going to change anything as far as factory settings, but I would at least like to know what is the process and what is the likely cost if I were to pursue having it reprogrammed to take out the pulsing at low rpm...

Thanks!
 
It is programmed by using the push buttons on its front panel. You also need the technical service manual to tell you how to program each parameter since each controller is a bit different and has different features and capabilities. Many of them have an automatic tuning procedure for setting up the control loop stability parameters since that is not something that the technician (unless very experienced) would be able to do by manually estimating these terms. Manually doing that part could get complicated and require a lot of modeling of the entire control loop to determine parameters such as moment of inertia, undamped natural frequency, and open-loop step response. Performing this part of the automatic tuning, if available on your controller usually requires partial disassembly of the drive train to get open-loop response. In some cases where manual tuning is necessary, you might even need to obtain motor parameters from the motor manufacturer. If the motor is from Asia, chances are slim of getting it.

Some of the set up procedure involves user options. While many of these would be self-evident, there are some others that are not so obvious what they mean. My experience is that most of these manuals can be found on the web, but there some that are notorious for having really poor useless manuals -- the name Yaskawa comes to mind as probably the worst (I think that they have since changed their name). It is also marketed under various different labels such as Magnatek. I normally go with well known quality brands such as Siemens, Allen-Bradley, and Baldor, but there are also some very good low cost ones too. One of those is Delta. The older Reliant controllers are another that I shy away from.

If you have pulsing at low RPM, it could be several different things causing it:
  • The best case scenario is that you have the drive belt set in the wrong speed range. Trying to turn at minimum spindle speed while the drive belt is in the high range will cause the motor to run below the point where a V/Hz controller can provide stable speed regulation. This condition is greatly aggravated by having a heavy chunk of wood mounted in the chuck because it increases the load moment of inertia well beyond what is controllable. The situation can normally be fixed by putting the lathe drive in the correct speed range.
  • A variation of the previous condition is that the lathe drive is set to the low speed range and the spindle speed is set very high with a heavy blank mounted. In this case the load moment of inertia reflected back to the motor is multiplied by the square of the drive ratio. The result is unstable operation. The cure is to put the drive in the correct speed range.
  • The next situation is a little more difficult. The lathe drive is set to the correct speed range, but the speed continues to "hunt". The cause could be that the controller is not tuned correctly or that the blank that is mounted is too heavy for stable operation especially at low speed. This would be a design deficiency that tuning may not be able to improve. The cure would be to not use large pieces of wood or do more trimming on the bandsaw before mounting them. Another cure would be to modify the lathe hardware to change the drive ratio to allow the motor to run faster at low spindle speed.
  • A simple V/Hz controller, which is most likely what your lathe uses does not have good speed regulation at low speed. They use them because they are cheap. It would not have cost the manufacturer but a few dollars more to use a sensorless vector controller which has far better low speed control provided that the rest of the drive system is adequately designed (drive ratio, HP, etc). One solution is to replace the drive with a sensorless vector controller. Another is to restrict what you turn. There are other solutions that are left as an exercise to the reader's imagination.
 
narrowing down my issue

It is programmed by using the push buttons on its front panel. You also need the technical service manual to tell you how to program each parameter since each controller is a bit different and has different features and capabilities. Many of them have an automatic tuning procedure for setting up the control loop stability parameters since that is not something that the technician (unless very experienced) would be able to do by manually estimating these terms. Manually doing that part could get complicated and require a lot of modeling of the entire control loop to determine parameters such as moment of inertia, undamped natural frequency, and open-loop step response. Performing this part of the automatic tuning, if available on your controller usually requires partial disassembly of the drive train to get open-loop response. In some cases where manual tuning is necessary, you might even need to obtain motor parameters from the motor manufacturer. If the motor is from Asia, chances are slim of getting it.

Some of the set up procedure involves user options. While many of these would be self-evident, there are some others that are not so obvious what they mean. My experience is that most of these manuals can be found on the web, but there some that are notorious for having really poor useless manuals -- the name Yaskawa comes to mind as probably the worst (I think that they have since changed their name). It is also marketed under various different labels such as Magnatek. I normally go with well known quality brands such as Siemens, Allen-Bradley, and Baldor, but there are also some very good low cost ones too. One of those is Delta. The older Reliant controllers are another that I shy away from.

If you have pulsing at low RPM, it could be several different things causing it:
  • The best case scenario is that you have the drive belt set in the wrong speed range. Trying to turn at minimum spindle speed while the drive belt is in the high range will cause the motor to run below the point where a V/Hz controller can provide stable speed regulation. This condition is greatly aggravated by having a heavy chunk of wood mounted in the chuck because it increases the load moment of inertia well beyond what is controllable. The situation can normally be fixed by putting the lathe drive in the correct speed range.
  • A variation of the previous condition is that the lathe drive is set to the low speed range and the spindle speed is set very high with a heavy blank mounted. In this case the load moment of inertia reflected back to the motor is multiplied by the square of the drive ratio. The result is unstable operation. The cure is to put the drive in the correct speed range.
  • The next situation is a little more difficult. The lathe drive is set to the correct speed range, but the speed continues to "hunt". The cause could be that the controller is not tuned correctly or that the blank that is mounted is too heavy for stable operation especially at low speed. This would be a design deficiency that tuning may not be able to improve. The cure would be to not use large pieces of wood or do more trimming on the bandsaw before mounting them. Another cure would be to modify the lathe hardware to change the drive ratio to allow the motor to run faster at low spindle speed.
  • A simple V/Hz controller, which is most likely what your lathe uses does not have good speed regulation at low speed. They use them because they are cheap. It would not have cost the manufacturer but a few dollars more to use a sensorless vector controller which has far better low speed control provided that the rest of the drive system is adequately designed (drive ratio, HP, etc). One solution is to replace the drive with a sensorless vector controller. Another is to restrict what you turn. There are other solutions that are left as an exercise to the reader's imagination.


Hi Bill,

You are the very one that I was hoping would catch my post and would respond. Thank you for taking the time.

In regards to my newly purchased Grizzly G0698 18x47 lathe, the machine runs great, and the only issue is that Grizzly advertised it 0-1200 rpm on the low belt setting, and 0-3200 on the high belt setting. On the low end, it starts to "hunt" as you put it [I have been saying "pulse" which may be incorrect] at 100 rpm, and on the high it hunts at about 300 or so.

I did not get what I believe was an acceptable explanation from the tech support guys at Grizzly. They just told me that they got the specs wrong, and offered me a refund if I shipped it back. I like the lathe, and it does a great job, and this very low rpm is probably not going to hinder my turning, however if the inverter is programmable, I wanted them to make the adjustment.

What they did was go back to their web page and change the rpm specs. Owners of the Laguna 18x47 lathe [same machine] that have posted on this issue report no "hunt' in theirs, so I felt like this was something that Grizzly could indeed address if they would "man up" and do what it takes.

The tech guys did tell me that this was "their spec" that the machine was manufactured to, and offered me and another owner with the same issue a choice of return or "live with it." They did not say it in those words, but that was what it amounted to.

Evidently the particular parameters of this inverter or pulley size, or vz controller are what their engineers accepted as their specs, and I just wanted to know if that adjustment to eliminate "hunt" at very low rpm was one that was do-able.

Thank you so much for taking time. Any additional comments would be helpful to me and very much appreciated.🙂
 
Roger,
There was a thread here some months ago about the frequency drive on the PM. The inverters can be programmed all sorts of ways to increase or decrease speed ranges, braking, torque, and the on/off speeds. I have had a couple of adjustments done to my Robust, and love them. The manufacturers don't like the really slow speeds for fear that the motors will over heat and burn up. My experiences with slow speeds, and sanding for hours, and maybe 8,000 bowls, is that my motor runs cooler than when I am bowl turning because the motor isn't working as hard. I checked it frequently when I first changed the speeds on my Robust when Brent expressed his concerns about over heating. The older PM A models came with the settings to go down to almost zero before shutting off, while the newer ones shut off at about 50 rpm. If you want to check your inverter, call the manufacturer, not Grizzly, or get the owners manual, and have an electrician check it out.

robo hippy
 
Be careful!

If you decide to make programming changes, record EVERY parameter before making any changes. These inverters commonly have ± 250 parameters. We are usually concerned with 15 to 25 of them. Sometimes parameter "C" can not be changed or even show up until parameter "R" is changed. Do not attempt any changes unless the manual is in your hands. After you believe that you have destroyed your lathe, step "one" will allow you to get back to factory settings. Also realize that a reset to defaults resets to the inverters default, not the lathe manufacturer's default. Your needed default is what you recorded in step "one." Normal, light-commercial or household electricians usually will not have a clue as to how to help you. Find an industrial electrician that has some experience with inverters.
 
very helpful info -keep it coming!

If you decide to make programming changes, record EVERY parameter before making any changes. These inverters commonly have ± 250 parameters. We are usually concerned with 15 to 25 of them. Sometimes parameter "C" can not be changed or even show up until parameter "R" is changed. Do not attempt any changes unless the manual is in your hands. After you believe that you have destroyed your lathe, step "one" will allow you to get back to factory settings. Also realize that a reset to defaults resets to the inverters default, not the lathe manufacturer's default. Your needed default is what you recorded in step "one." Normal, light-commercial or household electricians usually will not have a clue as to how to help you. Find an industrial electrician that has some experience with inverters.

Thanks Bill and other posters,

I don't think that I am going to try to make any changes on my own with the inverter. I have 2 concerns: one, to find out the process so as to know what is involved so that I can understand Grizzly tech support's reluctance so far to address this issued of "hunt" "searching" or "pulsing," whatever is the correct terminology for describing the problem, and two, to find out how to go about having a competent electronics technician do it, maybe later after the machine goes out of warranty.

I do not want to make alterations on my own, as it might void the manufacture's warranty, but it is still my contention that they should do this themselves, as they are the ones who advertised one thing as far as the specs go, and then pulled back and changed them after the fact.

I believe Grizzly could solve this if they would just do whatever it takes, and would have a very happy customer on their hands, but I am still waiting, and as of now I feel they have skirted the issue for what is easy for them, when it is in the realm of the possible to fix this as other vendors versions of the same lathe do not have reports of this pulsing issue at low rpm.
 
Roger
I've been a happy customer of Grizzly for many years, but I know that the reason their prices are cheaper, is because they don't employee people needed to do some real technical jobs. Like re-programing controllers.
Part of why I didn't go with Griz for my lathe, was the idea that, since it has a controller and can be reprogrammed, I wanted a firm that might support this. I can access some of the control parameters and adjust them. But I know, both from the Control Systems Theory class (a 400 series Engineering class) I took a long time ago, and the work I've done in Control Systems (in this case for some really unusual underwater systems) that I would not change any parameter I didn't completely understand

TTFN
Ralph
 
IMHO - They could

Roger
I've been a happy customer of Grizzly for many years, but I know that the reason their prices are cheaper, is because they don't employee people needed to do some real technical jobs. Like re-programing controllers.
Part of why I didn't go with Griz for my lathe, was the idea that, since it has a controller and can be reprogrammed, I wanted a firm that might support this. I can access some of the control parameters and adjust them. But I know, both from the Control Systems Theory class (a 400 series Engineering class) I took a long time ago, and the work I've done in Control Systems (in this case for some really unusual underwater systems) that I would not change any parameter I didn't completely understand

TTFN
Ralph

Thanks Ralph,

I know that with current knowledge that I have that I would not attempt changing any specs, or default programming. I would let a trained professional do that, but I believe Grizzly has the capability, as they rewind motors, and do a number of other technical things.

They would most likely have to secure a new inverter that had been tested at the factory, and have it shipped to them to address this, but it is in the realm of the possible, and it is probably a little more trouble than they want to go into, and maybe a little cut into their profit margin, but they would certainly gain in customer satisfaction, and in maintaining their good reputation.
 
... What they did was go back to their web page and change the rpm specs.

Evidently the particular parameters of this inverter or pulley size, or vz controller are what their engineers accepted as their specs, and I just wanted to know if that adjustment to eliminate "hunt" at very low rpm was one that was do-able.

A V/Hz controller (or volts per Hertz) is the most basic type of controller. That type of controller is best suited for an application where the load torque is very predictable and directly proportional to speed. Examples of this type of load would be a blower or a pump that does not have to work against a large head pressure. A lathe certainly would not fall within that requirement, but since the V/Hz controllers are very cheap, that is probably what is most common on the lower cost lathes (not the high end lathes).

A V/Hz controller does not attempt to sense what the motor is actually doing and just goes on the assumption that when it outputs a certain voltage at a certain frequency that the motor will turn a certain speed -- end of story. While this is fine for a well-behaved system such as a transfer pump, it is not the case for a woodturning lathe (not saying that turners are not well-behaved 😀, but the lathe torque load cannot be predicted based on spindle speed). Having the right V/Hz ratio from the controller is important. If the speed is low and the voltage high, the motor's iron core will magnetically saturate, which will lead to loss of speed regulation, a.k.a. "hunting". If the opposite happens, the magnetic field strength in the iron core will be weak and inadequate torque will be developed. In both cases, the motor's efficiency drops which is a fancy way of saying that it will run hot.

BTW, there is no way in heck to make a V/Hz controlled motor run satisfactorily at 100 RPM. I am surprised that it is satisfactory anywhere below 300 RPM and certainly not great below 500 RPM.

One notch up the food chain is the "sensorless vector" controller. It attempts to sense motor slip frequency and load torque, thus enabling it to provide "on the fly" compensation from the controller to maintain the desired speed. They really do a great job, but performance begins to suffer below 300 RPM and while they will actually run at or below 100 RP, I would recommend that you do not do it. This is a good way to overheat a motor very quickly.

At the top of the food chain is the very expensive full vector feedback controller. It not only knows the precise motor speed, but also the exact shaft angle at any instant. They usually use an optical shaft position encoder mounted on the back of the motor to provide speed and position information to the controller. They truly can operate from zero RPM up to the upper speed limit of the motor. This type of controller requires a special motor designed for this type of service. In addition to the encoder, there is a second motor that runs a blower to keep the main motor cool even at full torque and zero speed. These motor frequently can run as fast as 6000 RPM.

.... The manufacturers don't like the really slow speeds for fear that the motors will over heat and burn up.

I do not blame them. If Brent or anybody else built a lathe with a full vector control system, nobody could afford one. In practical terms, ther is very little occasion where a spindle speed below 300 RPM is necessary.

... After you believe that you have destroyed your lathe, step "one" will allow you to get back to factory settings. Also realize that a reset to defaults resets to the inverters default, not the lathe manufacturer's default.

Good point -- the controller manufacturer does not know what motor or application will be used with his controller. Defaults are just a starting place and not the destination. It is handy when one needs to get back to some sort of known configuration.

I have 2 concerns: one, to find out the process so as to know what is involved so that I can understand Grizzly tech support's reluctance so far to address this issued of "hunt" "searching" or "pulsing," whatever is the correct terminology for describing the problem, and two, to find out how to go about having a competent electronics technician do it, maybe later after the machine goes out of warranty.

I believe Grizzly could solve this if they would just do whatever it takes, and would have a very happy customer on their hands, but I am still waiting, and as of now I feel they have skirted the issue for what is easy for them, when it is in the realm of the possible to fix this as other vendors versions of the same lathe do not have reports of this pulsing issue at low rpm.

I think they "solved" it by redefining the performance specs. 😀

A better and more expensive controller might be the answer, but somewhat reluctantly in their defense, I would have heartburn about operating at 100 RPM because of motor thermal concerns. Even a better sensorless vector controller is likely to have "hunting" issues at 100 RPM depending on the drive ratio and moment of inertia that the motor sees. A general design guideline is that the load moment of inertia shall not exceed 10 X the motor's rotor moment of inertia -- otherwise it is difficult to have stable speed control regardless of the controller.

Most woodturners understand it better when I explain it in more simple terms: Bubba, if yew hang that thar 300 lb. chunk of soppin' wet wood on that faceplate, that sucker is gonna' go all wonky on yew when yew flip da switch.

..... I believe Grizzly has the capability, as they rewind motors, and do a number of other technical things.

I'm with Ralph. I seriously doubt that they have the technical expertise. Rewinding motors is more like a skilled trade -- like rebuilding an engine, etc. The scope of a design change should not be minimized. Fixing this issue would involve some specialized engineering expertise to redesign the whole system. On the outside it may seem simple, but it is really much more complex than just swapping boxes as far as optimal design is concerned. In practice, swapping boxes is what many companies lacking the expertise actually wind up doing.
 
Bill Boehme - Thank You!

A V/Hz controller (or volts per Hertz) is the most basic type of controller. That type of controller is best suited for an application where the load torque is very predictable and directly proportional to speed. Examples of this type of load would be a blower or a pump that does not have to work against a large head pressure. A lathe certainly would not fall within that requirement, but since the V/Hz controllers are very cheap, that is probably what is most common on the lower cost lathes (not the high end lathes).

A V/Hz controller does not attempt to sense what the motor is actually doing and just goes on the assumption that when it outputs a certain voltage at a certain frequency that the motor will turn a certain speed -- end of story. While this is fine for a well-behaved system such as a transfer pump, it is not the case for a woodturning lathe (not saying that turners are not well-behaved 😀, but the lathe torque load cannot be predicted based on spindle speed). Having the right V/Hz ratio from the controller is important. If the speed is low and the voltage high, the motor's iron core will magnetically saturate, which will lead to loss of speed regulation, a.k.a. "hunting". If the opposite happens, the magnetic field strength in the iron core will be weak and inadequate torque will be developed. In both cases, the motor's efficiency drops which is a fancy way of saying that it will run hot.

BTW, there is no way in heck to make a V/Hz controlled motor run satisfactorily at 100 RPM. I am surprised that it is satisfactory anywhere below 300 RPM and certainly not great below 500 RPM.

One notch up the food chain is the "sensorless vector" controller. It attempts to sense motor slip frequency and load torque, thus enabling it to provide "on the fly" compensation from the controller to maintain the desired speed. They really do a great job, but performance begins to suffer below 300 RPM and while they will actually run at or below 100 RP, I would recommend that you do not do it. This is a good way to overheat a motor very quickly.

At the top of the food chain is the very expensive full vector feedback controller. It not only knows the precise motor speed, but also the exact shaft angle at any instant. They usually use an optical shaft position encoder mounted on the back of the motor to provide speed and position information to the controller. They truly can operate from zero RPM up to the upper speed limit of the motor. This type of controller requires a special motor designed for this type of service. In addition to the encoder, there is a second motor that runs a blower to keep the main motor cool even at full torque and zero speed. These motor frequently can run as fast as 6000 RPM.



I do not blame them. If Brent or anybody else built a lathe with a full vector control system, nobody could afford one. In practical terms, ther is very little occasion where a spindle speed below 300 RPM is necessary.



Good point -- the controller manufacturer does not know what motor or application will be used with his controller. Defaults are just a starting place and not the destination. It is handy when one needs to get back to some sort of known configuration.



I think they "solved" it by redefining the performance specs. 😀

A better and more expensive controller might be the answer, but somewhat reluctantly in their defense, I would have heartburn about operating at 100 RPM because of motor thermal concerns. Even a better sensorless vector controller is likely to have "hunting" issues at 100 RPM depending on the drive ratio and moment of inertia that the motor sees. A general design guideline is that the load moment of inertia shall not exceed 10 X the motor's rotor moment of inertia -- otherwise it is difficult to have stable speed control regardless of the controller.

Most woodturners understand it better when I explain it in more simple terms: Bubba, if yew hang that thar 300 lb. chunk of soppin' wet wood on that faceplate, that sucker is gonna' go all wonky on yew when yew flip da switch.



I'm with Ralph. I seriously doubt that they have the technical expertise. Rewinding motors is more like a skilled trade -- like rebuilding an engine, etc. The scope of a design change should not be minimized. Fixing this issue would involve some specialized engineering expertise to redesign the whole system. On the outside it may seem simple, but it is really much more complex than just swapping boxes as far as optimal design is concerned. In practice, swapping boxes is what many companies lacking the expertise actually wind up doing.

Dear Mr. Boehme,

You Sir, are a prince among men! Thank you for putting this issue in an understandable context for me. While I live near a number of bubba's [affectionally we call them rednecks] I do get what you are saying and and after turning an additional large cherry blank [very hard by the way] and seeing this thing operate with the power and performance that it did, then I have had my appreciation for it arise once again.

Also, letting me know the difficult position that this would most likely put Grizzly in is helpful to me as well. It will indeed go from ZERO to 3200 rpm, when the lathe is off, so I guess technically speaking the previous specs might slide by, albeit the working load should have been researched better by them before publishing specs that created expectations in their perspective customers.

Overall, I consider this a minor issue, and what I wanted most was a quality machine with features, capacity to do higher end work that I was not able to do with my former lathe, and availability of parts and service down the line if the were to be needed sometime in the future, and good customer service. Most likely, I have done pretty well in all these areas, and I got what I consider a good value for my money.

Once again, you have been very helpful, and you have my gratitude!🙂
 
Roger Just as a point of reference my Powermatic 3520A only goes down to about 60 rpm on the high pulley. It will go to zero but the first step (which looks very slow) is actually around 50 or 60 rpm. Maybe they did that to prevent it from searching.
 
Roger Just as a point of reference my Powermatic 3520A only goes down to about 60 rpm on the high pulley. It will go to zero but the first step (which looks very slow) is actually around 50 or 60 rpm. Maybe they did that to prevent it from searching.

It was not intentional. The average low cost potentiometer does not go smoothly down to zero ohms, but has a starting hump at the beginning that will translate into a finite speed. Also, we must consider that at that speed, the motor can't develop much torque, so it much first develop enough torque to exceed the "breakout" friction torque in the system. I know ... the poop sheet from the manufacturer says full torque from zero to base speed ... but, that's why they call it a "poop" sheet.
 
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reference points

Roger Just as a point of reference my Powermatic 3520A only goes down to about 60 rpm on the high pulley. It will go to zero but the first step (which looks very slow) is actually around 50 or 60 rpm. Maybe they did that to prevent it from searching.

Thanks John,

You guys are making me feel better all the time. A point of reference such as yours and what Bill Boehme have posted gives me a perspective I did not have and is reassuring as to my purchase.

You guys are great! Thanks!🙂
 
I'm with Ralph. I seriously doubt that they have the technical expertise. Rewinding motors is more like a skilled trade -- like rebuilding an engine, etc. .....

Rewinding motors is pure simple. You can train anyone to do that (trust me, we have). Even though the motors we were rebuilding were, well, large (100's of HP DC motors, no that is not a misprint, it takes a big motor to push something weight a couple of tons around in the water at 10 to 30 knts)

Re-programing control systems..... Well, I know a guy with a PHD that did his thesis on u/w control systems.

Ralph
 
As to using speeds below 300 rpm, I use them a lot for putting on finish and for power sanding my warped bowls. To sand the bowls, I need speeds in the 15 to 20 rpm range. Any faster and I can't keep my hands or the abrasives on the wood on the bowls that are really warped. High torque is not an issue at all here, and is not needed. As I said before, there is NO over heating of the motor at all, and I check by hand. It runs cooler than when I am turning. I don't know what it would do if I ran it for 24 hours non stop with almost no load. It would be drawing the full 220 volts, but minimal amps. It would be interesting to hook up an amp meter to see what kinds of spikes I can get while turning. With my old PM 3520A, at the lowest speed, of around 10 rpm, I could grab a 5 inch diameter cylinder and stop it cold. I could not even slow it down at 100 rpm. Pretty much the same thing with my Robust.

robo hippy
 
I believe that Brent designs his lathes to have roughly a 3 to 1 drive ratio for the motor to spindle in the low speed range which means that the motor will be running closer to 60 RPM. As you said, you really do not need any significant power and at that speed, the motor can't produce much power anyway. So, you could probbly run it for extended periods without any heating problem. The problem would occur if trying to take heavy cuts with a gouge at that speed. The efficiency is low and current through the rotor would increase until it hit some sort of limit. Most of this current would just go into heating up the windings (known as I²R heating loss or just copper loss) rather than doing useful work. The large current would also mean that the iron core would become magnetically saturated which is the main contributor to control instability. So, unloaded is is probably just fine, but the motor will quickly get hot if trying to hog out a rough piece of wood at that speed.
 
...So, unloaded is is probably just fine, but the motor will quickly get hot if trying to hog out a rough piece of wood at that speed.

So would my patience. 😉

My 3520B starts turning at 48 rpm. I use it that slow or a bit higher for sanding, but like Robo, I don't put any significant loads on the motor when I'm running that slow. By the time I'm up to about 100 rpm though, it's capable of roughing a large piece and it'll squeal the belt before it'll stall the motor.
 
My Robust was programmed to turn off at about 50 rpm. That was too fast for me, and I had Brent walk me through slowing it down, and changing the hertz (spell?) which changed the available speed ranges. Low speed range went fro 800 up to about 1200, mid range went from 1700 to over 2000. This is great for bowls, and good for a lot of spindles as well.

robo hippy
 
Auxiliary Drive

I think you're asking too much of any control system to expect good performance at very low speeds. On large ships, there's an "inching" motor to rotate the propeller shaft when in port, to reduce permanent gravitational distortions. I used a similar concept to build an auxiliary drive for my lathe. It consists of a rotisserie motor (~5rpm) driving the outboard spindle for run-less spray coating of the work still mounted on the lathe. It seems to work best with the lathe set at its highest speed (but not running) to minimize the "reflected" (?) load from the lathe's motor. Bill can probably enlighten that idea.
 
... By the time I'm up to about 100 rpm though, it's capable of roughing a large piece and it'll squeal the belt before it'll stall the motor.

I am fairly certain that you were not advocating operating the lathe so that the belt squeals, but just for the benefit of anybody else who might not already know this, it is not a good idea to allow the belt to squeal.

Whether the belt is multi-ribbed or a standard V belt, they have one thing in common -- they run on the angled sidewalls so that the wedging action enables them to drive the load without slipping. A belt has worn out when the peak of the ribs makes contact with the bottom of the pulley. At that point, there is no longer any wedge locking action and slipping is likely when any significant load is encountered. If the belt has not already become glazed, it probably will in short order. Also, it is not good for the pulley when this happens as it may get hot enough to anneal the metal. If you have ever driven a car with a slipping belt and ignored the noise for a while, is is likely that person replacing the belt noticed that the pulley on the alternator, compressor, power steering, etc has turned a beautiful shade of blue. The final squeal heard in this situation would have been from the owner paying for replacing the damaged pulley.

... On large ships, there's an "inching" motor to rotate the propeller shaft when in port, to reduce permanent gravitational distortions.

At first, I thought that you were referring to something similar to my wife's collection of refrigerator magnets. I mentioned to her that the FAA has a permanent NOTAM on the DFW Sectional chart regarding the disturbance in the earth's magnetic field in the vicinity of our kitchen. 😀

We would not want a wobbly screw on a ship. It would be like turning an off balance hunk of wood on the lathe -- only worse.

... It consists of a rotisserie motor (~5rpm) driving the outboard spindle for run-less spray coating of the work still mounted on the lathe. It seems to work best with the lathe set at its highest speed (but not running) to minimize the "reflected" (?) load from the lathe's motor....

I won't mention any names, but she tossed out my prized rotisserie motor during a clean-up frenzy.

Regarding the part about using the lathe HI range drive ratio with the rotisserie motor, you are correct about it working better than the LOW speed range. Since you are driving from the spindle side (I presume), the friction on the motor side of the drive will be reduced by the drive ratio and moment of inertia (which is pretty small at this speed) will be reduced by the square of the drive ratio.
 
The wobbly screw might not be so bad, but it was probably discovered from sad experience, that the shaft could become bowed to the extent that it shook the bejabbers out of everything. Hence the inching motor. These shafts can be on the order of 2 ft diameter, and substantial distance between bearings.

I picked up some rotisserie motors and appurtenances at garage sales. I didn't have a real use for them until I took up woodturning. The one that turns CW drives the outboard spindle of the lathe, i.e. in reverse, because of the LH internal threads. I was more concerned with the inertia load, and the HI speed setting makes the lathe motor turn slower, as a passive participant. On an earlier lathe, I just disengaged the lathe motor. The other one turns CCW, and is part of a stand-alone system for spray coating other things; it isn't necessarily horizontal, depending on the application.

Best of luck on your recovery.
 
Excellent info on EVS/VSD from Bill in this thread. Any chance you (Bill) could compile this into a single document so we could just say "Go read this" from Bill?
 
Excellent info on EVS/VSD from Bill in this thread. Any chance you (Bill) could compile this into a single document so we could just say "Go read this" from Bill?

I can put it on my "to do" list which is pretty long right now. After the snow storm last week, we have a big mess to clean up with broken tree branches and shrubbery that has completely collapsed. Next, I am off to take care of my parents for a few days.
 
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