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What type of tool would I use to do that?
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How do you make loose rings on a spindle?
- Thread starter flyturnskater
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john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Many people use what is called a ring tool. It's sort of got a hook shaped cutter on the end. I just use the toe of my skew unless it's going to be a small ring, then I have a homemade ring tool that I ground from a screwdriver.
ring tool
You can also use the bent end of a dental pick, just don't dig it in or try to be aggressive. it works very well on small rings on pens where there is very little room. It you make a tool make sure to grind it on both sides so you can swith sides and still have a sharp edge to cut with.
You can also use the bent end of a dental pick, just don't dig it in or try to be aggressive. it works very well on small rings on pens where there is very little room. It you make a tool make sure to grind it on both sides so you can swith sides and still have a sharp edge to cut with.
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Here's a shortcut to a tool which will do the job.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=247-0485
If you can't follow it, got to www.woodturnerscatalog.com and look up item 247-0485
I made one out of one of those Home Depot scrapers. Took about an hour or so to drill and then grind. But it's the way I like it, cheaper.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=247-0485
If you can't follow it, got to www.woodturnerscatalog.com and look up item 247-0485
I made one out of one of those Home Depot scrapers. Took about an hour or so to drill and then grind. But it's the way I like it, cheaper.
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Like John said using the skew works quite well. remember to sand the surface of the ring just before you cut it loose. Once the ring has been cut free you can roll some sandpaper on the spindle and hold itin place with a rubber band or a bit of masking tape. this allows the sanding of the inside of the ring.
You can also cut them quite nicely with a pointy spindle gouge.
I had a 12 year old student who pestered me to teach him how to make "bracelets" on wood. Mostly he wanted a skill his father had not mastered. He got quite good a rolling the gouge over on the underside of the bead from each side and getting nearly a finished surface from the tool.
I definately suggest putting a 2x2x4 on the lathe and turn 3 rings. and do it untill you get three rings you like then try it on a goblet or whatever.
Every time you break a ring just rember the 12 year old broke his second one.
Darn kid!!! I think I broke the first 5 I tried. This kid put a captive ring on everything he turned. gavel handles with captive rings, whitles with captive rings, lidded boxes with captive rings....
Happy Turning
-al
You can also cut them quite nicely with a pointy spindle gouge.
I had a 12 year old student who pestered me to teach him how to make "bracelets" on wood. Mostly he wanted a skill his father had not mastered. He got quite good a rolling the gouge over on the underside of the bead from each side and getting nearly a finished surface from the tool.
I definately suggest putting a 2x2x4 on the lathe and turn 3 rings. and do it untill you get three rings you like then try it on a goblet or whatever.
Every time you break a ring just rember the 12 year old broke his second one.
Darn kid!!! I think I broke the first 5 I tried. This kid put a captive ring on everything he turned. gavel handles with captive rings, whitles with captive rings, lidded boxes with captive rings....
Happy Turning
-al
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captive rings
I hope you all won't mind me adding to this thread.
I think "ring tool" could be misleading. A ring tool, strictly speaking, is for hollowing out vessels, and I can't imagine anybody forming a captive ring with one. I only mention this so you don't rush out to buy one hoping to form captive rings with it!
A captive ring begins life as a deep bead which is then undercut, or cut round the back from each side, evenly, until it parts from the core timber. The link to the tool supplied by Craft Supplies, provided above, will give you an idea of the tool's shape, and function. The narrow finger is used to cut the timber around the back of the bead, and has already been stated, if you have sanded and finsihed the ring before it parts off, the ring is complete except for a little sanding around the back.
So, basically, cut a deep bead, clear a little room either side to get the tool into to work, and then gently cut around the back from each side, manitaining the shape, sand, seal and finish, and then make the last few cuts to release the ring. You can tape it to the spindle out of the way to allow you to finish turning the wood beneath it if you need to. When you develop some proficiency you'll find you can work with the ring bouncing about.
And "well done" to Teacher and 12 year old pupil! That's great. We have some MUCH older members in our club, and long-time turners, who still struggle with captive rings.
regards,
Andy Coates
www.cobwebcrafts.co.uk
I hope you all won't mind me adding to this thread.
I think "ring tool" could be misleading. A ring tool, strictly speaking, is for hollowing out vessels, and I can't imagine anybody forming a captive ring with one. I only mention this so you don't rush out to buy one hoping to form captive rings with it!
A captive ring begins life as a deep bead which is then undercut, or cut round the back from each side, evenly, until it parts from the core timber. The link to the tool supplied by Craft Supplies, provided above, will give you an idea of the tool's shape, and function. The narrow finger is used to cut the timber around the back of the bead, and has already been stated, if you have sanded and finsihed the ring before it parts off, the ring is complete except for a little sanding around the back.
So, basically, cut a deep bead, clear a little room either side to get the tool into to work, and then gently cut around the back from each side, manitaining the shape, sand, seal and finish, and then make the last few cuts to release the ring. You can tape it to the spindle out of the way to allow you to finish turning the wood beneath it if you need to. When you develop some proficiency you'll find you can work with the ring bouncing about.
And "well done" to Teacher and 12 year old pupil! That's great. We have some MUCH older members in our club, and long-time turners, who still struggle with captive rings.
regards,
Andy Coates
www.cobwebcrafts.co.uk
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Andy Your right. We should call it a captured ring tool which is totally different than the ring tool or hool tool used to hollow end grain. Good description of how it's done.
Just wanted to add that I made a pair of captive rings tools from 20p nail. I made a right hook and a left hook. Nails are soft malleable material and easy to work with hand files. Being a cheap metal, it doesn't hold an edge but since you are only using them to free your prevoiusly formed bead, they work fine.
- Scott
- Scott
sharpening?
After an exhausted search I have, as yet, been unable to find any information on how to properly sharpen a captive ring tool. Can anyone help me out with this?
After an exhausted search I have, as yet, been unable to find any information on how to properly sharpen a captive ring tool. Can anyone help me out with this?
Last edited:
I always reffered to a captive ring tool as a "cats claw",
Ring tool makes you think of hollowing.
Ring tool makes you think of hollowing.
For the DIY ones I made, I just take a flat file to the top rather then try and rework the curved portion that hooks around the ring. By filing the top you create a new edge.
Since you are only freeing the bead, you do not really put a huge amount of wear on the captive ring tool so it will make more captive rings than any sane person will ever make before you file away too much material to require a new tool.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
It depends a little on the tool. I make my captured ring tools by drilling a hole in the flattened end of a round rod or in some cases a flat blade screwdriver tip. Then I file away some of the circle to leave a sort of flat hook.
If I am using the same tool for both left and right side of the ring I grind the tip flat or perpendicular to the top and bottom. Then I polish the top and bottom and the flat tip.
If I have made a separate left and right tool I grind the tip to sharper angle and then will often run the diamond hone up the tip to raise a burr. This cuts cleaner of course but does require 2 tools.
I sand the inside of the ring by fixing sandpaper to the shaft of the object being turned, such as the goblet stem. I either super glue the paper to the shaft or use rubber bands. Depends on how much room I have. Then I turn the lathe on and so it spins the sandpaper (and goblet) and then rotate the ring by hand. If you can do this successfully you don't need the right and left tools because the single tool will usually cut clean enough to easily be sanded.
The 2 tool technique is better when you can't sand the rings such as doing 10 or 20 rings on one stem. On those you won't have room to sand so the rings need to be cut really clean.
If I am using the same tool for both left and right side of the ring I grind the tip flat or perpendicular to the top and bottom. Then I polish the top and bottom and the flat tip.
If I have made a separate left and right tool I grind the tip to sharper angle and then will often run the diamond hone up the tip to raise a burr. This cuts cleaner of course but does require 2 tools.
I sand the inside of the ring by fixing sandpaper to the shaft of the object being turned, such as the goblet stem. I either super glue the paper to the shaft or use rubber bands. Depends on how much room I have. Then I turn the lathe on and so it spins the sandpaper (and goblet) and then rotate the ring by hand. If you can do this successfully you don't need the right and left tools because the single tool will usually cut clean enough to easily be sanded.
The 2 tool technique is better when you can't sand the rings such as doing 10 or 20 rings on one stem. On those you won't have room to sand so the rings need to be cut really clean.
