• Congratulations to Alex Bradley winner of the December 2024 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Holly help

Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
255
Likes
1
Location
Gaston, Oregon
Will someone PUHLEEZ tell me how to properly cure Holly for turning???? I have 10 acres of trees...they average 135 or so years old, some are over 12" on the stump, and a VERY nice marbled color (whites thru greys, greens, etc.). I have tried air-drying, micro-waving, boiling, all the while waxing the ends, both indoors and outdoors, buried and tarped....and the damn stuff keeps warping, cracking and checking!!!! This is not the bleached out bone white you people are used to seeing, but incredibly beautiful wood, way too good to toss into the shop stove (burns great!!!) I have tried using the trunks as well as the stumps (best wood in the stumps!!) Also tried various cuts on 16" bandsaw...slabbing, 1/4 sawing, etc. Spalting seems to help a bit (the logs spalt VERY nice!!), but I think this wood is worth all the trouble!!!
Thanks in advance to any and all help on this!!!! Mr. Don
 
Don, You don't say if you have rough turned the green wood and then tried to dry the rough turned pieces, or just tried to dry the wood. Sounds like you have a source of wonderful wood, so must solve this problem. Others here will know what to do.
 
Mr. Don,

I am afraid I have no experience with Holly. But here in the Pacific Islands many of the turners use a product called Turners Choice from Cedar Cide. The link to their web page is http://www.cedarcide.com/woodturners.asp (I don't sel this stuff or have any interest in the company by the way)

It is a non toxic product marketed as a wood stabilizer. It gets used for the same purpose soaking wood in Denatured Alcohol. Remove moisture, stablize the wood, reduce cracking, etc. It also seems to kill and drive off certain insects we suffer from here in Hawaii like the Powder Post Beattle.

I have been using it, but only on a few bowls so far. Nothing challenging yet though.

The turners here who use it swear by it. They started using it for Koa, a local wood, highly prized for bowls and calabash forms, and a wood that sells for big dollars if you have even modest skill as a turner. The turners found that they had to rough a Koa bowl and then sit it on a shelf to dry for 6 months to a year before they could safely do the final turning and finish it. Even then they were losing an unacceptable number of bowls to cracking as they dried.

They tried a variety of things but didn't find anything that satisfied them until they tried the Cedar Cide stuff. To use it, they rough turn from green stock, then paint the stuff on liberally and let it soak in. For Koa they let it dry about 2 weeks. For other woods they let it dry about 3 days. Then they do the final turning and finish it. All done. Once dry it does not appear to alter the color or affect the woods ability to take a finish. It costs about $50/gallon on the mainland, $60/gallon here in Hawaii, but they pay it readily because of the way it has changed their turning timetables. Understandable. If a turner can take a highly priced bowl from green to the gallery in under a month versus having to set it aside for year, and risk losing a fair amount of their work to cracking while they wait, then this is a great stuff.

I also believe a few turners are doing the alcohol soak method as well, and they seem satisfied with that. Someone in Hawaii wrote to me in another post about that and I will be darned if I can remember who. If that person is reading this would you mind chiming in please???

The wood I want to try this on is Ohia. It is very dense, and as it dries has a tendency to crack like mad. I have done OK with it so far but want to try it with some of the Turners Choice on it and see how it changes this characteristic. I get the impression Ohia does not sell well in galleries here, but I really like the looks of it myself. Very Subtle figure and colors. (I have 2 pieces of it posted in my gallery here if you want to look) So it would be nice if I could get it to behave better, even if I only end up using the wood for personal stuff rather than for sale.

I hope this helps a little!! Let us know what you end up using!!! If you want to try it but don't want to spend the bucks on a test let me know. I will be happy to see if I can find a waterproof container I can trust and ship you some. I don't believe this is flammable so it should be OK to send from here.

Dave
 
Holly

Mr Don, Holly should be cut in winter when the sap is not running. If you have cut the wood with the sap at a fresh state and the wood grows in soil with a high mineral content then you may have streaks. You will also get streaks from blue/green mold that infests the wood after it is cut. My extensive experience- -over 10 years- -leads me to believe that you are either going to have discoloration or you are not, depending on a whole list of factors. My suggestions are that you seal the wood (assuming it is already cut) and leave it in log form until you locate a kiln and have it cut and kiln dried immediately. If you are doing it all yourself then you should work hard to keep the wood off the ground, stickered, sealed and protected. Given all that you may, repeat, may end up with clear white wood, but no guarantees. For small pieces used in works I have used bleach to whiten the wood and that does seem to kill the stains on the surface of the wood. I have many pieces of holly that are white as a bone but some that are colored and there is little you can do once the stain sets into the wood. Good luck! Phil
 
What about boiling a rough turned bowl and then let it dry (a few months) and then re-turning it? I do that with Madrone wood and it works well. Something to try.
Hugh
 
Holly Wood

Have tried Pentacryl with some luck.....boiled some rough-turned. same. Tried winter versus summer harvest....not a major factor. I repeat..I am not looking for the bleached out white Holly. Have to give the alcohol a try....
As for where I am located....West of Portland, Orygun. E-mail me for details if you want....woodward@spiritone.com Thanks to all for the help!!!!!
 
Back
Top