Hollowing tools/set-up question

[Darrin]

Anyone out there have any recommendations on hollowing tools or set-ups? I was looking at the Jamieson system as well as a few others. We had our dog 'Duke' cremated after his bout with cancer and I want to make an urn for his ashes. Any info would be greatly appreciated as I'll need to start this project within a month. Thanks guys,
Darrin

 

[David Wilkins]

I have the full set of Keltons, love them, also have a rolly munro, it works great too.

 

[KurtB]

Hollowing Tools

Even though I have a set of the Kelton hollowers, I would recommend that someone relatively new to hollowing try the David Ellsworth set. It is less expensive, lets you get the feel for deep hollowing tools, and, after all, if he's been doing it that way for all these years, there must be something to it!🙂 It is also a good idea to buy his new book so that you can really understand how to use the tools properly.

 

[john lucas]

I'm a fan of the john Jordan tools for the same reason as the David Ellsworth. That's what John has done all his life and his tools reflect it.
I also like the Jamieson system for captured bar hollowing. The 3/4" Jordan tools will also fit the Jamieson system.
If your new at hollowing I would suggest the captured bar systems. They aren't as versatile hand held systems but they are much easier and safer for the beginner.
Ideally I suggest starting with smaller hollow vessels and hand held devices and working your way up but since your trying to do something large right off the bat try one of the captured bar systems.
Sorry for your loss. My dog means everything to me and I'm sure you miss yours.

 

[Burt Alcantara]

Darrin,
I started with boring bars and ended up becoming a turning terrorist - explosions, fragmentations, missles everywhere.

I bought Randy Privetts Articulated Arm because the price was very reasonable. After using it for some time, and making some nice hollow forms, I've begun to try my hand at free hand hollowing again (using Ellsworth tools) now that I've got a better idea how hollowing works. Still a struggle but a lot of fun.

Randy's site: http://www.monster-wood-tool.com/

I recently tried to hollow a small piece of old olive wood free hand. Gave up as the tools beat me up too much. Will finish it on the arm.

While in good shape for my age, I don't have the upper body strength to fight thru dense woods that you spring chickens can zip through.


YMMV,
Burt

 

[Tony K. in NC]

I have tried ALOT

In the past year i have tried alot of hollowing tools, excuse my inability to name them all but they are as follows

captive "D" style with carbide tips
armbrace with carbide tips
Elbo tool
Pro-forme
hook blade
termite
As well as a few home-made that my mentor had made over the years.

The best experience is when i combine one type or another. currently for not quite so deep up to about 9" i use the pro-forme mounted in the elbo, or just the pro-forme by itself. Deeper up to about 15" i use the pro-forme in a custom 5' long handle with an irons gate type rest.(planning a captive style as soon as i get bed extension)

Some advice though if you get the pro-forme just buy the bars and cutterheads. get the handle from peebles that he makes for the 5/8 thompson gouge, or if you feel frisky get you some 6061-T5 1" round bar and make your own. you can make different lengths, if you go more than about 30" use 1 1/4 round bar. And if you are really good at tool making buy the cutterheads and make your own bars. One advantage i will give to buying the stock handle, you can slide the cutter bar all the way up in it mate another handle (bought or made) to the butt end of it and you now have a 1" bar tool, If you can bore a hole in a made handle that is about 5 or 6 inches deep you can make this yourself also.

I was introduced to the pro-forme a while back and bought the advanced kit, Now i use it for major stock removal in bowls also, with a bowl gouge for finish cuts. The one main thing i like about it is the gauge on the cutterhead, you adjust it for green or dry, hard or soft and so forth and just go to it. VERY EFFECIENT. I have even found that you can get set the gauge for a very small cut and it works as good if not better than a scraper. AND (pounding head on wood desk) i have yet to get a catch.

my 2 cents

 

[John Jordan]

Darrin,
I started with boring bars and ended up becoming a turning terrorist - explosions, fragmentations, missles everywhere.

I bought Randy Privetts Articulated Arm because the price was very reasonable. After using it for some time, and making some nice hollow forms, I've begun to try my hand at free hand hollowing again (using Ellsworth tools) now that I've got a better idea how hollowing works. Still a struggle but a lot of fun.

Randy's site: http://www.monster-wood-tool.com/

I recently tried to hollow a small piece of old olive wood free hand. Gave up as the tools beat me up too much. Will finish it on the arm.

While in good shape for my age, I don't have the upper body strength to fight thru dense woods that you spring chickens can zip through.


YMMV,
Burt

"old olive wood" is the problem.😱 Use green wood.

John

 

[Steve Worcester]

"old olive wood" is the problem.😱 Use green wood.

John

I don't think that is a good practice/learning curve block, but green wood will yield much quicker , better results to start with. Definitely. And maybe some of Johns videos :cool2:

 

[Burt Alcantara]

I intended to make a bowl with the olive wood but the wood told me to do a hollow form. It's still mounted on a chuck oiled and wrapped in plastic. I may end up finishing it in stages.

I agree that green wood is the better way to go. For the next piece of olive I think I'll try C4.

Burt