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Hollowing systems
- Thread starter Denny Nebgen
- Start date
I'm a hollowing novice. I went with the Trent Bosch system. He sells his Stabilizer and tools in 5/8" or 3/4". I believe the 5/8" is good up to 6" in depth, probably a bit more.
trentboschtools.com
You can use any hollowing tools, but I also bought his straight tool, swan neck tool, and handle. I think it was about $600 total.
5/8″ Hollowing Tool Stabilizer – Trent Bosch Tools
trentboschtools.com
You can use any hollowing tools, but I also bought his straight tool, swan neck tool, and handle. I think it was about $600 total.
Hands down, Trent Bosch Stabilizer as Kent stated above. Compact and easy to use.
Just to whittle down your choices, the Monster and Kobra have not been made for a number of years.
Hi Denny,
I would love to help with your hollowing questions.
First, they all work....that's the good news. But each one has different limitations in hollowing. You pointed out one of the biggest obstacles - depth or size of the hollow form.
I designed my system around over coming these obstacles. All of the systems come standard with a 3/4" boring bar which will hollow 8-9" deep until the metal starts to flex - (depending on a number of variables)
An option on my system is the 1 1/8" jumbo bar, which would allow you to hollow something 16-17" deep.
I have a number of YouTube videos explaining the features and use of my hollowing system.
Here's a start:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nutI3lYKuXk&t=12s
I would love to help with your hollowing questions.
First, they all work....that's the good news. But each one has different limitations in hollowing. You pointed out one of the biggest obstacles - depth or size of the hollow form.
I designed my system around over coming these obstacles. All of the systems come standard with a 3/4" boring bar which will hollow 8-9" deep until the metal starts to flex - (depending on a number of variables)
An option on my system is the 1 1/8" jumbo bar, which would allow you to hollow something 16-17" deep.
I have a number of YouTube videos explaining the features and use of my hollowing system.
Here's a start:
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
Part of the decision revolves around your lathe and how you like to hollow / turn.
If your headstock slides, and you like to stand at the end of the lathe, then some of the systems may be a better fit.
If you have a short bed lathe, there might not be enough room for a some of the systems.
Some take longer to setup, with multiple things to attach to the bed ways. Something to consider if you go back-and-forth between captured and free-hand or between hollowing and exterior turning.
If you want to go back and forth between free-hand and captured hollowing, some systems let you use the same body mechanics as you use free-hand (maybe an advantage, maybe not).
Captured systems (vs articulating arms) are probably better suited to deeper turnings.
Some may limit your selection of hollowing tools, others will work with wider variety (like anything with a 1/2, 5/8, 3/4" shaft etc).
Thinking about some of the above you can probably eliminate some systems and maybe prioritize the rest.
Then, the best thing is to find someone in your club or neighboring club with one of your candidates and get them to let you try it out.
If your headstock slides, and you like to stand at the end of the lathe, then some of the systems may be a better fit.
If you have a short bed lathe, there might not be enough room for a some of the systems.
Some take longer to setup, with multiple things to attach to the bed ways. Something to consider if you go back-and-forth between captured and free-hand or between hollowing and exterior turning.
If you want to go back and forth between free-hand and captured hollowing, some systems let you use the same body mechanics as you use free-hand (maybe an advantage, maybe not).
Captured systems (vs articulating arms) are probably better suited to deeper turnings.
Some may limit your selection of hollowing tools, others will work with wider variety (like anything with a 1/2, 5/8, 3/4" shaft etc).
Thinking about some of the above you can probably eliminate some systems and maybe prioritize the rest.
Then, the best thing is to find someone in your club or neighboring club with one of your candidates and get them to let you try it out.
I purchased two of David Ellsworth's hollowing tools then made my own handles. Since then I have made a couple of my own tools out of old screwdriver shafts and a torch to bend them. It's almost just as much fun to make your own tool as it is to use it and make a hollow piece.
- Joined
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If you are connected with a club find out what your club members are using.
If you can take a class or get a day of mentoring it will do wonders.
I took a class with Davis Ellsworth and that made hollow forms a primary focus.
I started with David’s tools, moved to the arm brace and then the Jamieson.
You will need hollowing bars and a hollowing rig or handle if you go hand held.
My recommendation is based on my preference of being close to the work.
The jamieson system will work well for you can be mounted on just about any lathe - I’ve done club demos with the Jamieson on a jet 1221. I also like the Simon home but it’s a lot more money now. Both worth well with a lazer or video. I love the video.
One thing to think about with urns and the lazer is that you need to see lazer beyond the wide spot. Often easy to do with the Jamieson or Hope. I used to mount a mirror near the headstock to see the lazer beyond tge horizon of the form.
I’ve only hollowed a few times with the Bosch. It’s a good system. My preference is to be closer to the work. I think I have more control. You’ll need a mirror to see the lazer beyond the forms horizon.
I also use Bosch hollowing bars in both the Jamieson and Hope systems.
If you can take a class or get a day of mentoring it will do wonders.
I took a class with Davis Ellsworth and that made hollow forms a primary focus.
I started with David’s tools, moved to the arm brace and then the Jamieson.
You will need hollowing bars and a hollowing rig or handle if you go hand held.
My recommendation is based on my preference of being close to the work.
The jamieson system will work well for you can be mounted on just about any lathe - I’ve done club demos with the Jamieson on a jet 1221. I also like the Simon home but it’s a lot more money now. Both worth well with a lazer or video. I love the video.
One thing to think about with urns and the lazer is that you need to see lazer beyond the wide spot. Often easy to do with the Jamieson or Hope. I used to mount a mirror near the headstock to see the lazer beyond tge horizon of the form.
I’ve only hollowed a few times with the Bosch. It’s a good system. My preference is to be closer to the work. I think I have more control. You’ll need a mirror to see the lazer beyond the forms horizon.
I also use Bosch hollowing bars in both the Jamieson and Hope systems.
Denny,
I recommend starting with freehand hollowing then if you catch the bug and want to hollow large things move to a captive system.
It can be cheaper to go freehand and hollowing can be done on a smaller lathe than needed for a captive hollower. I have the John Jordan hollowing bars (the other JJ, may he rest in peace), handles, and arm brace handle. These will easy hollow moderate sized forms. I also use some of the Hunter tools for hollowing and have some mini hollowing tools for small things like ornaments. Look here under Tools for the Jordan tools.
If not aware, there is a simple way to easily hollow deep things taught by several (Jake Niedling did a demo on this recently in the Knoxville club). Shape the outside of the piece, part it somewhere in the middle, hollow both halves from the middle, make joints on both halves just as you would a lidded box, glue the halves together, and use some means to hide the joint if desired. A lot of people in the club who had never hollowed anything successfully made hollow forms on the first try.
For urns, Niles bottle stoppers sells some threaded bronze rings that will let the lid be fastened securely and still come off easily.
JKJ
I recommend starting with freehand hollowing then if you catch the bug and want to hollow large things move to a captive system.
It can be cheaper to go freehand and hollowing can be done on a smaller lathe than needed for a captive hollower. I have the John Jordan hollowing bars (the other JJ, may he rest in peace), handles, and arm brace handle. These will easy hollow moderate sized forms. I also use some of the Hunter tools for hollowing and have some mini hollowing tools for small things like ornaments. Look here under Tools for the Jordan tools.
If not aware, there is a simple way to easily hollow deep things taught by several (Jake Niedling did a demo on this recently in the Knoxville club). Shape the outside of the piece, part it somewhere in the middle, hollow both halves from the middle, make joints on both halves just as you would a lidded box, glue the halves together, and use some means to hide the joint if desired. A lot of people in the club who had never hollowed anything successfully made hollow forms on the first try.
For urns, Niles bottle stoppers sells some threaded bronze rings that will let the lid be fastened securely and still come off easily.
JKJ
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Did the McNaughton not work out for you Denny?
I'm sure all hollowing systems work. For me it is the tooling that makes them work good, bad or otherwise. For many years I used the John Jordan and the Kelton Hollowers. They worked but when Mike Hunter brought out his two different hollowing bars to support his carbide hollowers it was a huge change. The Jordan's and the Kelton's are scrapers and while they worked there is a certain amount of chatter and most of which you air hosed out of the piece was dust. With the two different hollowing bars from Mike Hunter and his tools there is basically no vibration as they cut the wood not scrape. I can easily go about 12" with the 3/4" bar and the Hunter Captive Hollowing Set and 18 to 19" deep with the 1" bar and the Hunter Captive Hollowing Set. I've had many different hollowing systems and I've tried the video setup but I have stayed with the laser as I prefer to look at the piece and not a monitor for many reasons. While I have both articulated and trapped systems I really like the articulated system the best and I can use it on everyone of my lathes.
Just a point of information, Trent also makes a 1” hollowing tools to fit in his 3/4” stabilizer, as well as fairly new 1/4” and 3/16” mini tools. When you want to make very small hollow forms through a small opening, a la Laurent Niclot (Trent’s son-in-law), they are terrific.
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john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Take a look at woodturnerswonders new captured bar system with video system. It was priced at $600 at the TAW symposium and includes everything. A very well thought out system abd once you use a video system to measure wall thickness you won't go back.
I have not tried it yet. I am wanting too. I've just been working at a bit slower pace since my wife passed last fall. I'll get there eventually. Thanks for asking.
I did pick up one of the threaded rings to try and I plan on putting it to use. I have hollowed some smaller things(4-5 inches deep by hand. I will consider what you said about splitting the urn in two. ThanksDenny,
I recommend starting with freehand hollowing then if you catch the bug and want to hollow large things move to a captive system.
It can be cheaper to go freehand and hollowing can be done on a smaller lathe than needed for a captive hollower. I have the John Jordan hollowing bars (the other JJ, may he rest in peace), handles, and arm brace handle. These will easy hollow moderate sized forms. I also use some of the Hunter tools for hollowing and have some mini hollowing tools for small things like ornaments. Look here under Tools for the Jordan tools.
If not aware, there is a simple way to easily hollow deep things taught by several (Jake Niedling did a demo on this recently in the Knoxville club). Shape the outside of the piece, part it somewhere in the middle, hollow both halves from the middle, make joints on both halve just as you would a lidded box, glue the halves together, and use some means to hide the joint if desired. A lot of people in the club who had never hollowed anything successfully made hollow forms on the first try.
For urns, Niles bottle stoppers sells some threaded bronze rings that will let the lid be fastened securely and still come off easily.
JKJ
Unfortunately the one I need is $1,000 for the American Beauty.
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
Another option is to hollow from both ends. Tenon on the top, turn most of the outside shape and part off a plug for the bottom. Then hollow half or so from the bottom. Fit and glue in the plug, add a tenon, and flip it around to finish it from the top.
If you’re looking for the most flexible system at the best value IMO it’s Lyle Jamieson’s System. I have the 1-1/8” bar and carbide cutter along with the 3/4” bar. After studying all the systems mentioned, its what I went with. The swivel heads and different bar mounts create tremendous flexibility. Bought mine ~ 5 yrs ago, so relative pricing of systems may have changed.
I put together a camera/monitor system and do not use the laser anymore. The camera mounts in place of the laser. Its pretty cheap to pit together a vision system, I had a 20” vga monitor, and spent $65 on the camera and signal converter, no pc, laptop, tablet etc needed.
I put together a camera/monitor system and do not use the laser anymore. The camera mounts in place of the laser. Its pretty cheap to pit together a vision system, I had a 20” vga monitor, and spent $65 on the camera and signal converter, no pc, laptop, tablet etc needed.
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
Denny, as @John K Jordan mentioned above about hollowing in two parts and disguising the joint. These urns are relatively small but the technique works for any size. I usually make the cut on the band saw while the blank is still square (or whatever), then re-attach with double-sided tape or hot-melt glue. Then mount between centers and rough out the exterior shape and tenon(s) before separating and hollowing.
Sorry to hear about your wife passing. I still have to make three urns for my wife's cremains (r.i.p.- 2000). It is hard to get started, and I'm a procrastinator by nature. But, now I'm 80 ... so I better get on it.
Sorry to hear about your wife passing. I still have to make three urns for my wife's cremains (r.i.p.- 2000). It is hard to get started, and I'm a procrastinator by nature. But, now I'm 80 ... so I better get on it.
I don't suppose you have any sales coming up soon... asking for a friend
Made my hollower a couple yrs ago from scrap wood, junk yard steel/alum and a cutter assembly from AZ Carbide. It was a fun project (although a bit time consuming ;-). I love the
way it cuts without chatter/catches/stress/anxiety etc. and it got me into turning hollow forms quickly and with ease. Some may call it cheating ... I figured the only thing scarier than a bad catch was a blind catch inside a hollow form so I started out this way ... to each his own.
Here's a link to some pics .... made several mods since (replaced the plywood backrest with a post and spare banjo, made a 1-1/8" boring bar, etc.) Didn't go the camera route, stuck with a laser, works for me.
If I was looking to start again with a hollower, and wanted to skip the obsession of building one, I'd definitely go with Lyle's system ... as mentioned - flexible, comfortable, easy to use, etc. and Lyle shares a lot of
great hollowing tips and advice on YouTube and other platforms. Just my $0.02.
way it cuts without chatter/catches/stress/anxiety etc. and it got me into turning hollow forms quickly and with ease. Some may call it cheating ... I figured the only thing scarier than a bad catch was a blind catch inside a hollow form so I started out this way ... to each his own.
Here's a link to some pics .... made several mods since (replaced the plywood backrest with a post and spare banjo, made a 1-1/8" boring bar, etc.) Didn't go the camera route, stuck with a laser, works for me.
If I was looking to start again with a hollower, and wanted to skip the obsession of building one, I'd definitely go with Lyle's system ... as mentioned - flexible, comfortable, easy to use, etc. and Lyle shares a lot of
great hollowing tips and advice on YouTube and other platforms. Just my $0.02.
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
I have the Lyle Jamieson system and have been very happy with it.
Those are very nice!
Cindy Drozda made an overview video about hollowing systems a couple years ago. They all work but there are advantages to the different styles in some applications. I went with Lyle's system myself.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1L6KXTa8ir4&t=849s
As a follow up question: Has anyone ever tried Ron Brown's Hollowing Stabilizer?
I purchased the Oneway system a year ago and have been very pleased with it. The only dislike is the laser light which does not hold up to the vibration. Oneway sent me a replacement at no cost but indicated they were having trouble locating a supplier for a better brand. The second light is still working fine.
On the plus side, I haven’t found any shape that I could not hollow.
On the plus side, I haven’t found any shape that I could not hollow.
I just bought a Jamieson hollowing system from an older turner in my club. So far so good.