• January Turning Challenge: Thin-Stemmed Something! (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Hollowing Rigs Question

M

Myron Smith

Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
10
Likes
0
Location
Northern Colorado
Hi,

I am not yet at point where I am ready to buy a hollowing rig, but I was curious about the pros and cons of an articulated arm (like for instance Monster Tool system) versus a capture system (like Jamison for example).

Thanks,
Myron
 
I can offer a couple of comments.
The articulated arm is more compact - both in use and in storage.
I get the impression that the captured system is preferred for larger projects and the articulated gets the nod for smaller projects. However, confirm this with others - I have never used a captured system.
PS - I really like my Elbo Tool.
 
Love my Monster. Got it set up on my 3520b. Its even painted to match. I haven't been through the side of a vessel since I started using the laser attachment.
 
I have a home made captured system, and the Monster system. The caputred system is better for bigger forms say from 8 inches and deeper, and the Monster it better for the smaller forms, 8 inches and less (some have gone up to 12 inches with it). Because of the articulation, it won't go as deep without chattering. I prefer it because the ones that sell best for me are the smaller ones. It also makes hollowing easy. There is very light action with it, and it has the best laser system that I have seen. The only draw back is that with everything that comes with it, you need an opening of 1 inch plus. I did have an adapter made so I can use my other hollowing blades in it. The medium McNaughton work very nicely in it, but the large McNaughton are just too long, and I get a bit of chattering. I also use the medium Eliminator in it. Almost glass smooth inside surfaces. I need a goose neck to put the carbide disc on, and then I will have everything.
robo hippy
 
Never used anything beyond a Stewart, myself, but it is a "work of risk," with this woodturning tool. Still, I have to ask why, with all the elaborate laser and pointer systems people use, don't they use a captured system and follow a template to cut interiors? Is there something fundamentally wrong with my thought? Has anyone done it with something like the Jamison?
 
MM I thought about using a template but I think it would take more time to make it than it would to use it. I shape each vessel a little different depending on the grain and figure in the wood so I would have to make a template that exactly matched in order to do the interior. A lazar is faster although you do have to stop and adjust it to be perpendicular to the line of cut in order to be accurate.
I have thought about making some "tube" shaped pieces and for that I would like to try making a template so the cutter would travel parallel to the ways so I could make the outside and inside perfectly straight. I would like to make something kind of like a collapsible telescope.
 
I have a home made captured and a home made articulated. I perfer the articulated one. if you want details on how to build it go to Captain's log on www.bayouwoodturners.com and look for the steel snake details. You can build one for under $50.00 including a basic tool and add a laser for another $25 or so.
 
You haven't tried, eh? Seems like the template would be just a scribe and scroll away from any exterior. Intriguing possibility, I guess.
 
MichaelMouse said:
Never used anything beyond a Stewart, myself, but it is a "work of risk," with this woodturning tool. Still, I have to ask why, with all the elaborate laser and pointer systems people use, don't they use a captured system and follow a template to cut interiors? Is there something fundamentally wrong with my thought? Has anyone done it with something like the Jamison?
Click to expand...

If you are hollowing a narrow-mouthed vessel, a template system would have no freedom to move around inside the vessel unless a way is found to pivot the tool with the pivot point right at the cutting tip--so it stays at the same place in relation to the template follower. Probably calls for a round cutting bit like the Hunter, but with no tilt.
Food for thought, and seems do-able without a degree in rocket science.

(addendum)
And after thinking a bit more, and clearing the cobwebs from the belfry, any hollowing rig with a laser guide IS a template-following system which uses the vessel's exterior as the template.
 
Last edited:
I use a home made D bar systems (captive) for pieces from a few inches up to 24" in length. I have a setup made from 3/4" round stock and use the McNaughton inserts and then adapters to use cutters from 3/8" to 1/2" .
I have another with a 1" bar that will take the 3/4" cutters. Once you have all the tubing and welders the rest is not that expensive.
And one still larger that will take 1" cutters.

All use the same gate, it is just adjustable in the height and bar thicknesses it will use.

The articulating systems allow more maneuverability, but as stated, I could see where they would also have more (physical) flexibility. Flexibility it the enemy in deep hollow forms. Since you are hanging the cutters so far off of the toolrest, they want to be very rigid.
 
I don't know if a captured system would work with a template. I move the handle from all sorts of angles, so if the template could move sideways at an angle with the bar as you cut it might work. I think Sorby has a small set and one cutter has a feeler guage that is loose to the outside when the walls are too thick, but when pulled tight to the handle can give wall thickness, or rather proper thinness. I like it, but it isn't practicle for larger (beyond about 6 inches) hollow forms.
robo hippy
 
With my first attempt at deep hollowing I'm using this:

http://www.vicmarc.com/default.asp?contentID=546

Sounds like some tool chatter should be expected given the posts above.

The principal hollowing tool I have is mounted on a 5/8" shaft but the overhang will be long so there's a 3/4" shaft waiting my metal butchery. That's the max diameter the rig will take.
 
Template Based Hollowing System

I've been using a home made template based hollowing system for years now. I never liked the laser solution for thickness control. The big red dot really doesn't tell you where the cutter is. Plus the whole mess about adjusting the laser constantly.

The trick to get a template system to work is to have the pointer that follows the template be larger than the cutting tool. If the pointer is a 'vessel wall thickness' larger than the cutting tool and is the same basic shape as the cutting tool, then when it follows the template, it will leave a constant wall thickness regardless of the orientation of the boring bar and the part of the cutter touching the wood.

I have written up a description of the system I designed here:

http://harderwoods.com/templatebor.html (includes pictures)


Stan Harder
 
I also have a question about the Keith Clark (spin doctor) deep hollowing system. Has anyone used one and if so comment on use. Any feed back would be helpful.
 
If you can get hold of some of David Ellsworth's videos you may not want to collect a bunch of fancy special tools. His modified screw drivers, allen wrenches and other hand crafted tools seem to have worked just fine for him.
 
I bought Randy Privett's Monster Articulated Arm because it was the only system (sans Elbo) that I could afford. It comes with everything! It even comes with a bag of parts that you will eventually loose -- set screws, wrenches, ties.

I made a few attempts with Kelton and Bosch bars but found the stress on my arthritic joints too uncomfortable, to say the least. With the Monster, I was able to whip out hollow forms on my 3rd try (The first two were cups to discover how the tool worked).

About my 8th attempt, I did a 12" with voids. Piece of cake. My only problem now is me; I get stuck on design. Tool works great.

I use the Jamieson method for setting the laser and it is easier then changing belt speeds.

No fuss, no muss. Highly recommended.
My turning experience is 1.5 years.

Burt
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top