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Hollowing a longer goblet

D

devonpalmer

Joined
Sep 24, 2004
Messages
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Location
Columbus, Ohio
Website
www.devonpalmer.com
All,

I'm attempting to hollow a goblet 3" in diameter, and almost 10 inches long and I just can't keep it on the lathe. I'm using oneway #2 jaws in a stronghold with a decent tenon, .3 inches long and firmly seated against the jaw's shoulder. I'm hollowing using a siragas type shear scraper. I get the typical squeal, vibration and it pops out. It doesn't "feel" like I'm forcing the cut, or doing something I shouldn't (but, I guess I AM right? LOL)

Am I just beyond the design limits of the chuck? Is there a better way of mounting? Spindle steady?

- Devon, Columbus Ohio
 
time to build or buy a steady rest. Stewart Batty turned one about 24" long using a homemade steady rest at a demo I attended at the Southern States Symposium
 
The other thing to do would be to do a back cut with a spindle gouge. This will provide a bit of self support. I'm not even going to try and describe in detail how you do it but it includes boring a center hole, rotating the gouge and cutting at about the 2pm position with the gouge body supported against the wood. Google it and let us know what you find.

Also, a spindle steady is pretty easy to build and well worth the time and financial investment ($12.95 for a cheap set of rollerblade wheels and some bolts).

Good luck,
Dietrich
 
Bowl steady, really. One that supports the piece at 8 and 10 o'clock. That way you're cutting into it, not across from it.

Got some jaws that will allow you to get more shoulder contact? I've done 16 overhang with the Nova powergrip jaws. They give 3/8 or more contact between the shoulder and the chuck rim, and the dovetail draws them up tight together. Shoulder contact is a lot more important than length of tenon when your'e hollowing a goblet.
 
Thanks!

Thanks for the responses.

I'd been considering a bowl/spindle steady as I've been having problems with chatter on some larger bowls. AND, I just got a Jamieson Hollowing system from my dad, so, now is the time. I vaguely remember seeing lotsa plans on building your own. Anyone have any good links/Success stories?

- Devo
 
Use a 3" faceplate. Glue block about 1"-1 1/2". Make block big enough for the base of goblet to set in. You will remount goblet between centers. Base is too be flat with a tenon you will make to fit in recess of glue block. 1/2" tenon should be plenty. I would just use regular white or yellow glue. Let set overnight. Use your tailstock for pressure against base until it sets for a while 1/2 hr. should be enough, then remove, set aside and find something else to turn. Part off excess wood when goblet is done and undercut base somewhat. Base of goblet should be approx 1/4" smaller than rim for rule of thumb. GT
 
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