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hoist????

Charlie Knighton

Charlie Knighton

Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
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Location
Martinsville, VA
is it time to invest in hoist?????

i am trying to screw the faceplate on, it only goes about an inch. it is not cross threaded yet. the center of the dogwood is punky, cannot use drive center, was going to use a faceplate on tailstock also, but til i can get the headstock screwed on.... i was trying to use left hand on hand wheel on headstock....

i am willing to listen to suggestion at this point 😀😱
 

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I'm guessing you still don't have the tailstock end supported at the right height. If you can get someone else to turn the headstock while you wiggle the tailstock end you will probably get it on.
What in the world are you turning? If it's green it's going to crack so I hope you take that into consideration.
 
Charlie,

I'm a bit confused by the trying to use left hand on handwheel on headstock. I am thinking you mean that you are using your left hand to turn the headstock, and only getting the faceplate to the point in the picture. If you mean you are trying to use a left hand thread faceplate, then it will not screw on the right hand thread of the spindle.

In the picture, I think the problem is that if the end of the log is not cut perfectly square with the axis of the log, then the tailstock end of the log will need to be moved into a position that aligns the faceplate square with the spindle. This may result in the log not being able to mate up with the tailstock center.


In my opinion, the best way to proceed would be to put the log between centers, and while turning by hand, observe if the ends are square to the axis. If not, draw pencil lines on the ends of the log while rotating it, and try to cut the ends square as defined by the lines. This cutting would have to be done off the lathe with a saw. Once the ends of the log are cut as square a possible, screw the faceplates onto the log, but do not tighten the screws tight. Leave them perhaps a 1/4" loose. Mount the faceplate onto the spindle, supporting the opposite end with suitable props, and tighten the faceplate onto the spindle. Screw the tailstock faceplate onto your live center. This will have the log between centers, with the faceplate mounting screws loose. Do not try to run the lathe at this point. Snug up the faceplate mounting screws, paying attention to any gaps that exist between the faceplate and the end of the log. Where gaps exist, a well fitting shim will be needed in those areas. When all areas are perfectly shimmed, finish the tightening of the faceplate mounting screws. The use of long hex head lag bolts for faceplate mounting is strongly suggested, and doing the in-place tightening with the log mounted should be possible with a box end wrench.

From what I see in the picture, your setup looks like it has the possbility to get you hurt. Also, you mention that the log is punky, and if so, I don't think it is a good idea to try and turn it in a large piece. It it comes loose from either end when spinning, it could do serious injury and damage.

What are you trying to turn from this piece?

Later,
Dale M
 
What in the world are you turning? If it's green it's going to crack so I hope you take that into consideration.
Click to expand...

John, this is an outgrowth from a couple of multi-axis pieces i tried. i read the Mark Lindquist article with interest, and having a neighbor who had a dead dogwood tree that was pretty straight....i am at this point, sort of feeling my way, i was going to just rough it down fairly smooth and then take a right angle grinder with lancerlot chain to it a little bit

John and Dale, this is definitly a practice piece and it already has a crack in it, i was going to epoxy the crack after getting the bark off.

The use of long hex head lag bolts for faceplate mounting is strongly suggested, and doing the in-place tightening with the log mounted should be possible with a box end wrench.
Click to expand...

Dale, thats a good idea, and keeping them loose should help
i was planning to turn the speed down, great thing evs

to get the ends straight i have been using a level, the headstock end seems very level

the trunk is only punky at the base in the pith, not sure how far up the soft wood goes, i was hoping to keep the lenght, this is a learning experience, not sure if it will lead anywhere, just one of those branches one takes
 
If you add two matching, and opposing, wedges to each stack of planks, you can micro-adjust the height of the workpiece. Similar to perfectly fitting a door frame into an existing opening with tapered shims. The only difference is you knock the wedges and planks free afterwards.
 
If you add two matching, and opposing, wedges to each stack of planks, you can micro-adjust the height of the workpiece. Similar to perfectly fitting a door frame into an existing opening with tapered shims. The only difference is you knock the wedges and planks free afterwards.
Click to expand...

thanks, Joe 😀
 
only got back to the turning this afternoon, will try a little more tomorrow

thanks John, Dale, Joe
 

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Looks like you got it set up well.............im still not very clear what you are trying to make............??
 
Dan, it will not be utilitarian, i am sure it will be spontanous, limited in scope, and "go with the flow" as one 2 dimensional describes her work 😀
 
Your just trying to justify that extra lathe you bolted on the end.
Click to expand...

Mark, there is a certain amount of truth in that statement, we all want something a little bit unique. 😀😀
 
Hoist

Charlie,
Danny Hoffman makes a really great hoist for wood lathe. Gene Gross has one and is very happy with it, I've tried it with a 60lbs crouched log and it was great. Both are members of the AAW and are listed in the members section.
Bill😱
 
thanks Bill, but

If you add two matching, and opposing, wedges to each stack of planks, you can micro-adjust the height of the workpiece.
Click to expand...

Joe's suggestion worked really well and

Once the ends of the log are cut as square a possible, screw the faceplates onto the log, but do not tighten the screws tight. Leave them perhaps a 1/4" loose. Mount the faceplate onto the spindle, supporting the opposite end with suitable props, and tighten the faceplate onto the spindle. Screw the tailstock faceplate onto your live center. This will have the log between centers, with the faceplate mounting screws loose. Do not try to run the lathe at this point. Snug up the faceplate mounting screws, paying attention to any gaps that exist between the faceplate and the end of the log. Where gaps exist, a well fitting shim will be needed in those areas. When all areas are perfectly shimmed, finish the tightening of the faceplate mounting screws. The use of long hex head lag bolts for faceplate mounting is strongly suggested, and doing the in-place tightening with the log mounted should be possible with a box end wrench.
Click to expand...

Dale's directions worked, when you get it squared up it just screws onto the spindle like a three inch bowl blank.

unforturity, after trying two different spots to locate a spindle steady, i was starting to get vibration at 90 rpms. that being the case, and remembering what my 1st bowl attempt looked like, i have started removing the bark by alternate means, i do not believe Dixie Biggs will feel threaten by my effords, and i have a

July 10th - 10am to 12 - at PAA's classroom.

Figure Study by Roland Guidry.

Bring a sketch pad and pencil.

Everyone welcome. Whether you are a beginner or advanced writer, quilter, painter, sculptor or painter, everyone will benefit.

Hope to see you there.

Iris Gillispie

so i am going to try to get free sculptor ideas tomorrow. 😀
the punky wood at the bottom and being aligned where i had to take too much wood away from cyllinder/trunk for spindle steady makes mm statement very real.
Stand clear, rest near, and cut the wood as it wishes to be cut.
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this was/is a learning experience and watch out Dixie/Mark, i have been at the bottom of the learning curve before, it really is fun to look back and see improvement. btw, when turning uneven spindle in this case a small toolrest is mandatory.
 

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good opportunity to consider a Lancelot for preliminary shaping
Click to expand...

right you are Joe, in the second photo of message just before this , there is a right hand grinder with lancelot (on the sand bags) that i have used to remove the bark, it makes an amazing amount of dust, so be prepared, i had to clean filter on air filtration unit after only 1/2 trunk debarking
 
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