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Hobby Kiln

W

Will Roos

Joined
Jul 17, 2008
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I am researching a small kiln to be used for turning wood, no lumber. Does anyone have info on kilns for this use? Would a old refridgerator work? Any help would be helpfull.
 
I have several friends that have used old dishwahers with a 25 watt lightblub.
These "kilns" seem to work very well.

stan
 
I've seen Cindy's setup. It really works well and makes great use of a dead fridge. She drilled vent holes along the top and bottom; one of those holes was big enough to get a light fixture in there. 1 60 watt bulb is all she uses. She repurposed oven racks for shelves. Does an amazing job considering she lives in such a dry climate.
 
I recently built a "freezer" kiln by going by the instructions of Kelly Dunn and Chris Pytlik. I've been very happy with the results thus far. I found a "dead" upright freezer at the local Menards for $9. I bought one of the "aluminum dome" farm/shop lights at a hardware store for $8. I drilled the holes in the top and bottom, one in the bottom slightly larger so I can pass the cord for the light through it. For $17, a little elbow grease to get the holes drilled and the "mechanics" gutted-I have a pretty nice kiln. No more buying DNA. The shelves in the unit worked out perfectly. They were basically "rack" style shelves from an oven or something but already part of the freezer. I've got a 60 watt bulb in it right now.
 
how does a kiln work?

Unless I am mistaken, all methods I have read about regarding drying blanks, ie., soaping, boiling, denatured alcohol and the use of anchor seal, all still take some time to complete the drying process while allowing (supposedly) controlled drying. How would a kiln work for drying blanks and why haven't I heard more about kiln drying for turners in the past? Yes, I am still rather new to turning.
 
Gary Slater said:
Unless I am mistaken, all methods I have read about regarding drying blanks, ie., soaping, boiling, denatured alcohol and the use of anchor seal, all still take some time to complete the drying process while allowing (supposedly) controlled drying. How would a kiln work for drying blanks and why haven't I heard more about kiln drying for turners in the past? Yes, I am still rather new to turning.
Click to expand...

Basically, because kilns take effort to ensure success that control of RH by enclosing with bags, boxes, coatings and so forth don't. The curing process is too easily done with benign neglect to bother oneself with other methods. Avoid extremely dry air and properly turned blanks will do well in most cases. Avoid extremely wet or slow drying and they won't mildew. Between the extremes, an inch of wood will be at equilibrium and ready for use in three-four months in all but the driest climates. Lesser thicknesses in half or less.

Then there are the woods from H*ll, like madrone and a bunch of expensive tropicals where you pick your method and take your chances.
 
MichaelMouse said:
... The curing process is too easily done with benign neglect to bother oneself with other methods....
Click to expand...

I resemble that remark 😛
Speaking for myself only, drying/curing woodturnings has too many variables to be approached scientifically, at least for the amateur turner. I have a bucket of LDD, a microwave, a big pot for boiling, some DNA, and an old food drying cabinet that could be used as a kiln. If you are a fairly serious woodturner, it's good to have a few of those angles covered as different situations call for varied solutions.
 
This probably won't help much but I am somewhat against kiln drying. I prefer naturally dried timber. It is not as hot and it can have a better color than kiln dried timber. But if you do use a kiln make sure you keep a very high humidity or you will have built a cracking machine and not a kiln. 🙁
 
Wyatt Holm said:
This probably won't help much but I am somewhat against kiln drying. I prefer naturally dried timber. It is not as hot and it can have a better color than kiln dried timber. But if you do use a kiln make sure you keep a very high humidity or you will have built a cracking machine and not a kiln. 🙁
Click to expand...

You might want to read up on how a kiln works, and especially on what determines the "dryness" of wood. If you keep the humidity high, the wood will not dry. Principle of the kiln is to control the step-down while reducing the time it takes to get there.

Great source on wood technology at http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/ Get the Wood Handbook first.
 
I wasn't saying to put the humidity too high. I was saying that you want it high enough so the heat does not dry the surface too quickly. I have never used a kiln, nor do I plan to.
Wyatt
 
Wyatt Holm said:
I wasn't saying to put the humidity too high. I was saying that you want it high enough so the heat does not dry the surface too quickly. I have never used a kiln, nor do I plan to.
Wyatt
Click to expand...

If you check the references cited you'll find that it's not the heat, but the humidity.

Steam is pretty hot, but it's also 100% humidity. Fogs happen in cold air, but they're the same 100%. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dew_point The air, being saturated at either temperature, can carry no more moisture away. No danger of too-rapid drying under either circumstance!🙂
 
Texian said:
Melissa, I gotta ask. Did you make up that word ("repurposed")?
Click to expand...


From www.dictionary.com

re·pur·pose (rē-pûr'pəs) Pronunciation Key
tr.v. re·pur·posed, re·pur·pos·ing, re·pur·pos·es
To use or convert for use in another format or product: repurposed the book as a compact disk.

The American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition
Copyright © 2006 by Houghton Mifflin Company.
Published by Houghton Mifflin Company. All rights reserved.
Cite This Source
 
Wouldn't matter if it wasn't in the lexicon.

nonce word

(plural nonce words)
noun
specially coined word: a word that is coined for a single occasion

Microsoft® Encarta® Reference Library 2005. © 1993-2004 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.

Thus does language grow. I can recognize the meaning of these constructs a lot easier than things like "phat."

Maybe next year http://www.lssu.edu/whats_new/articles.php?articleid=1695
 
The rule I've always followed is an inch a year plus one year. I've never understood methods that produce rapid drying other than twice turning which avoids much of the cracking that ruins a percentage of the wood we all use. In fact, for early house restoration, the rule was always to use air dried lumber and that this was especially important with lumber used in basements.

If one keeps enough wood on hand, there isn't much reason to use methods that shorten drying time.

Malcolm Smith.
 
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