Is this a good deal? Regular price is $80 but is this tool of any value? I'm using an Oregon jig which is OK but wouldn't mind something more accurate and consistent.
Burt
Burt
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HF Chainsaw Sharpener $29.99
- Thread starter Burt Alcantara
- Start date
Big discussion in the Tips Forum
HERE
Personally, I just bit the bullet and got a Oregon file and jig, black Sharpy to mark my starting tooth, brass brush, and old 2x4 and learned how to clean and touch up the teeth by hand. Less than 3 minutes. Easy on the steel. After the first couple times it is second nature, no big deal. Done it about 8 times so far and haven't had to adjust the rakers yet, but I have the file for that too. One of these days I will take the chain in for a "pro' to get it locked in again. I can't imagine that HF thingy being any faster or better, and can easily imagine it mucking up my chain. I can also easily do this in the field on a wood cut which is a good skill to have.
This is much easier to learn to do than to use a skew:cool2:
HERE
Personally, I just bit the bullet and got a Oregon file and jig, black Sharpy to mark my starting tooth, brass brush, and old 2x4 and learned how to clean and touch up the teeth by hand. Less than 3 minutes. Easy on the steel. After the first couple times it is second nature, no big deal. Done it about 8 times so far and haven't had to adjust the rakers yet, but I have the file for that too. One of these days I will take the chain in for a "pro' to get it locked in again. I can't imagine that HF thingy being any faster or better, and can easily imagine it mucking up my chain. I can also easily do this in the field on a wood cut which is a good skill to have.
This is much easier to learn to do than to use a skew:cool2:
Last edited:
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I picked up one a year or two ago. Made such a difference in my life that I gave some away for Christmas last year. I sharpen a chain in about 12 minutes. No more semi-sharp for me. pros: Simple, easy to use, cheap wheels, low cost.
cons: low quality construction. Be sure you make a good support for it, keep it dry and don't force an issue.
Worth the bucks? Certainly. Even better when it's on sale. I'm going to pick up one for our next members' rewards program now.
cons: low quality construction. Be sure you make a good support for it, keep it dry and don't force an issue.
Worth the bucks? Certainly. Even better when it's on sale. I'm going to pick up one for our next members' rewards program now.
I believe there was a thread on this subject about 4-6 months ago. Might want to search it.
I find a vise to hold the saw and a file works best for me. I have a grinder but never use it.
Get 2-6 extra chains and then when you are in the field cutting and need a sharp chain - you can just change the chain for a sharp one. Sharpen the dull ones when you get home so they are ready for the next trip out. Google the name of Baileys for chainsaw stuff. Chains are fairly cheap. Almost as cheap as having someone else sharpen the chain.
Hugh
I find a vise to hold the saw and a file works best for me. I have a grinder but never use it.
Get 2-6 extra chains and then when you are in the field cutting and need a sharp chain - you can just change the chain for a sharp one. Sharpen the dull ones when you get home so they are ready for the next trip out. Google the name of Baileys for chainsaw stuff. Chains are fairly cheap. Almost as cheap as having someone else sharpen the chain.
Hugh
Another option that I've had great luck with is the Dremel sharpening attachment. I'm not a big Dremel user and up that point I used a file with pretty good success. If you have the tool add a $9.99(?) kit and try it. I use it most of the time and it's quick. One thing that helps with any of them of course is to lightly sharpen often. The chains I've taken to a local hardware store kept coming back nearly as dull as they were received so I chose this option. Maybe I'll try one of the HF sets. By the way there may be a long thread on these here or one of the other forums. I remember coming across it before. I see someone else saw it as I posted.
Lengthy in-depth discussion here:
http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=751
BTW, I haven't read it, because I have no need nor intention of getting one.
Gordon
http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=751
BTW, I haven't read it, because I have no need nor intention of getting one.
Gordon
HF Sharpener
I'll admit to having one, got it cheap. I tried it on some smaller chains and it worked OK. The link Gordon posted helped me out. It works, but remember where you got it. Not a high precision machine. You have to be consistent with your motion when you bring the wheel down. I haven't used it on any good chains yet, but I just got a new saw. I also got some better hand filing tools from Bailey's. I'm pretty comfortable with that.
I'll admit to having one, got it cheap. I tried it on some smaller chains and it worked OK. The link Gordon posted helped me out. It works, but remember where you got it. Not a high precision machine. You have to be consistent with your motion when you bring the wheel down. I haven't used it on any good chains yet, but I just got a new saw. I also got some better hand filing tools from Bailey's. I'm pretty comfortable with that.
I have one, it's worth the money. Would a better (and more expensive) be better??
Probably, but for my (limited) needs, it works just fine
Probably, but for my (limited) needs, it works just fine
Worth it
I had hand sharpened many times and felt I was doing a decent job of it.
Wasn't.
Or else the HF unit made it so much easier and better.
Well worth the money. I paid more. Still happy.
As others have said, its not a quality unit, so be gentle with it. And use consistant moves and pressure.
The HF unit also changes the tooth shape slightly. A file is round, the grinding wheel has square corners. With my admited limited experience, it seems the HF grind cuts a little more aggressively (faster) with my somewhat underpowered saw.
I'm well pleased with it.
Will still carry the hand file in the carrying case, but will have spare chains and prefer to simply change it instead of sharpen in the field.
Local sharpening shops charge about as much as new chains.
Besides the HF sharpener, my best purchase was a supply of extra cutting chains. Walmart stocks twinpacks at decent prices (imo).
T-Bird
I had hand sharpened many times and felt I was doing a decent job of it.
Wasn't.
Or else the HF unit made it so much easier and better.
Well worth the money. I paid more. Still happy.
As others have said, its not a quality unit, so be gentle with it. And use consistant moves and pressure.
The HF unit also changes the tooth shape slightly. A file is round, the grinding wheel has square corners. With my admited limited experience, it seems the HF grind cuts a little more aggressively (faster) with my somewhat underpowered saw.
I'm well pleased with it.
Will still carry the hand file in the carrying case, but will have spare chains and prefer to simply change it instead of sharpen in the field.
Local sharpening shops charge about as much as new chains.
Besides the HF sharpener, my best purchase was a supply of extra cutting chains. Walmart stocks twinpacks at decent prices (imo).
T-Bird
Had one. Had to shim out the chain depth stop to take the slop out of it to make the tooth-set repeatable.
Lasted about a year, did "ok", and then the cheezy little micro switch went bad.
"Hello? HF? My switch went bad. How much for a new one?"
"Sorry, sir, but we don't sell just the switch. You have to buy the whole circuit board which is $45.95 plus shipping and will take about 2 months on special order."
"Thanks, anyway."
And into the dumpster it went.
Then I bought a Tecomec grinder from Madsens who I also buy my chain from. $230, but it is phenominally better, and opened up the option for variable compound grind angles to match the chains to the wood I'm cutting. Softer woods get a more acute set of angles while cutting the eastern hardwood that is the bulk of both my turning and burning is set to leave a bit more meat behind the beak for better durability. Also the chain depth stop and clamp are within 1/1000th when switching sides on the chain so the chain runs laser straight with no pulling or wandering in the cut.
Lasted about a year, did "ok", and then the cheezy little micro switch went bad.
"Hello? HF? My switch went bad. How much for a new one?"
"Sorry, sir, but we don't sell just the switch. You have to buy the whole circuit board which is $45.95 plus shipping and will take about 2 months on special order."
"Thanks, anyway."
And into the dumpster it went.
Then I bought a Tecomec grinder from Madsens who I also buy my chain from. $230, but it is phenominally better, and opened up the option for variable compound grind angles to match the chains to the wood I'm cutting. Softer woods get a more acute set of angles while cutting the eastern hardwood that is the bulk of both my turning and burning is set to leave a bit more meat behind the beak for better durability. Also the chain depth stop and clamp are within 1/1000th when switching sides on the chain so the chain runs laser straight with no pulling or wandering in the cut.
sharpening
My limited experience is that with a new chain I get many more cords of firewood cut than after the next sharpenings, whether they are "professionally" done at the Stihl shop, or my H. Ft sharpener, (I use the dremel and a diamond stone for most of my sharpenings and then every now and then get the gumption to take 5-6 chains at a time to put them on the H F sharpener). Same with scissors. Why don't they hold the edge like new ones??????? Gretch
My limited experience is that with a new chain I get many more cords of firewood cut than after the next sharpenings, whether they are "professionally" done at the Stihl shop, or my H. Ft sharpener, (I use the dremel and a diamond stone for most of my sharpenings and then every now and then get the gumption to take 5-6 chains at a time to put them on the H F sharpener). Same with scissors. Why don't they hold the edge like new ones??????? Gretch