Help With Tailstock Problem Please

[Wally Wingnut]

Howdy,

I am doing some boring with my Delta Lathe via a drill chuck on the tailstock. I move the quill in to bore but the quill eventually strips.

See parts 63 and 61 that get stripped here on this diagram

http://www.acetoolrepair.com/DeltaHtml/WL/WL9.htm

I am in the process of ordering these parts but fear that they will just go bad again.

I am making some complex headphone cups that require the inside of the cups to be bored out in several depths. Does anyone know a way around this problem with this tail stock? Or can anyone suggest a lathe more suitable for this application?

Thanks

Wally

 

[john lucas]

Wally I had one of those lathes many years ago and did a fair amount of drilling. I didn't have any problems with stripping. In fact when I rebuilt a J-line lathe it was missing all the tailstock parts. I ordered the same parts you are talking about and turned the quill down about .025" to fit the J-line tailstock. I used this lathe for several years and sold it to a guy who is a professional turner. He's still using it.

 

[GeorgeH]

I have the same lathe and do quite a lot of end boring on it but have never had a problem with the quill or quill screw stripping when boring using tail stock quill pressure. And my end boring includes running the quill to it's full travel, repositioning the end stock, and adding an extension to the bit to permit drilling deeper.
Forgive me for asking, but I'm wondering if you have somehow failed to release all of the pressure from the stop "stud" (PN 68 on the diagram)
while boring. It might also be possible that, if you have relieved most of the pressure from the stop "stud", the stud is engaging the end of its permitted travel within the notch in the quill and, by being unable to move further, the quill and/or quill screw have no alternative than to strip because the quill itself can no longer mover laterally along the boring plane.
You might also want to check inside the tail stock bore to see if there's something interfering with the quill screw from seating all the way back. Perhaps someone left two of the spacer washers (PN 64 diagram) in the bore causing the quill screw to extend deeper into the quill than it's supposed to. It's difficult to see them when they're tucked all the way back into the bore. If all else fails, you might try replacing the thick spacer washer (#64) inside the bore with a thinner version.
Many machines that use a screw quill feed system, not necessarily wood lathes, have a slip ring that is positioned to coincide with the stop position of the quill "stop stud". But that's expensive to engineer and manufacture so I doubt you'll find that feature on the level of equipment most of us use. Whatever adjustment you have to make, either developing a "feel" for when the quill reaches its intended stop point or modifying the tail stock so that the quill feed runs out of thread before it reaches the stop stud, you'll find that some adjustment will be necessary to avoid destroying the new parts you've ordered.
Using an indelible marker to mark the quill at the point where the stop stud hits the end of the slot (see image) might be the simplest option.

 

[Barry Elder]

Tailstock problem

The parts breakdown for your tailstock looks remarkably similar to the tailstock on my Jet 1236. I managed to strip out the same piece but it was because I was using too much pressure. I think the replacement parts are no better. You can be gentle, or ............I don't have any ideas that would help!

 

[Joe Greiner]

What size drills are you using? If you're using Forstner bits [(very slow speed, I hope)], you might be applying so much pressure that you don't notice when the quill reaches bottom. Away from the workpiece, extend the quill to full travel and place a warning mark, like nuturner says.

Joe

 

[Jim Keenan]

On my old Delta, there was a little friction pin you could get to from the bottom of the tailstock (upside down). The pin had to go into the groove deep enough to keep the quill from spinning but not so deep that it would impede the movment in and out.

Howdy,

I am doing some boring with my Delta Lathe via a drill chuck on the tailstock. I move the quill in to bore but the quill eventually strips.

See parts 63 and 61 that get stripped here on this diagram

http://www.acetoolrepair.com/DeltaHtml/WL/WL9.htm

I am in the process of ordering these parts but fear that they will just go bad again.

I am making some complex headphone cups that require the inside of the cups to be bored out in several depths. Does anyone know a way around this problem with this tail stock? Or can anyone suggest a lathe more suitable for this application?

Thanks

Wally

 

[David Somers]

Wally,

That also looks very similar to the tail stock mechanism of my Jet 1642.

A suggestion.

If you look at part 61, the Quill with the ruler printed on it, you should see a slot on one side if it. That slot is designed to mate with part 67, the lever that locks the quill in place. The lever needs to be turned in enough that it is in that slot and the quill is guided by it as it moves in and out. Obviously though the lever needs to be just loose enough to permit the travel of the quill.

I am guessing, but I have a feeling that your lever is loosened so much that it isn't engaging the slot in the quill allowing the quill to rotate and put pressure on park 63, the other half of your stripping problem.

I almost had this happen while drilling and caught it before I damaged anything. I am very careful now to make sure I have just loosed the lever enough to free the quill for movement, but not so much that it no longer guides the quill.

This is just a guess of course based on comparing your schematic with my 1642.

Let us know what you find!

Aloha!

Dave

 

[massmans]

tailstock problems on Jet 1236

I am also having tailstock problems. I have a Jet 1236 that the c-ring which prevents the tailstock quill from sliding backwords when under pressure, keeps coming out of its groove.

I have attached a picture to help explain. The c-ring is part #48-1. It sets in a groove on part #47. Part #47 also has threads that pushes the quill forward or backword depending on turning the handcrank on back of tailstock.

I have called Jet and received a new c-ring and also part #47 but even with the new parts it still jumps out of the groove over time.

I only use the tailstock for support when using a woodworm screw or a friction/jam fit when turning off the tenon on the bottoms of bowls. I dont apply a lot of pressure to the tailstock, but it continually jumps out of the groove.

Does any other 1236 owners have this problem, if so what have you found to remedy the problem. Would it be possible to weld or glue this c-ring in place. Is there a different manufactures tailstock that will work with the 1236.


Thanks,
Steve Massman

 

[4mikee]

Same problems with the jet 1236

I've had the same issue with my Jet 1236 and even more with my 1642. Odd the Delta's doing the same. Jet replaced #47 and #48 on the 1236 and the 1642 had to have a new tailstock assembly. I've since sold the 1642 and picked up a PM 3520. The 1642 was in great shape after the tailstock was changed. It was apparently out of spec. The 1236 continues to be a problem. I don't think it's designed to take a lot of tailstock pressure. However, I'm still a Jet fan.
Thanks

 

[John Nicholas]

Howdy,

I am doing some boring with my Delta Lathe via a drill chuck on the
...
I am making some complex headphone cups that require the inside of the cups to be bored out in several depths. Does anyone know a way around this problem with this tail stock? Or can anyone suggest a lathe more suitable for this application?

Wally, Why the drilling? How deep are you going? How wide at the surface?

Sounds like a small bowl to me! Graduated size decreasing as you go into the piece of wood. I am wondering why you don't use a gouge and/or scraper to hollow these headphone cups to meet the specifications?

John

 

[GeorgeH]

I am also having tailstock problems. The c-ring is part #48-1. It sets in a groove on part #47. Part #47 also has threads that pushes the quill forward or backward depending on turning the handcrank on back of tailstock.

How 'bout installing the 48 -1 onto the 47, placing the assembly on a piece of VERY hard wood atop an anvil, placing a second piece of VERY hard wood on top and, with 48-1 resting between the wood blocks, striking 48-1 with a nice heavy hammer a couple of times so it can't slip off of the screw drive.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I am doing some boring with my Delta Lathe via a drill chuck on the tailstock. I move the quill in to bore but the quill eventually strips............

WW,

First of all, I will assume that you mean that the whole quill is spinning because the locking screw jumps out of the guide groove. The other possibility is that you meant that the chuck arbor is spinning inside the quill socket.

I have a couple suggestions. The first is to bore with the drill in the headstock rather than the tailstock. This will make the boring easier and straighter and be much less likely to result in the tailstock quill spinning.

Perhaps I should explain further since many woodturners do not recognize the significance between the two ways of drilling. An important factor in understanding this is to recognize that on a woodturning lathe, the centerline axes of the headstock and tailstock are never collinear. You could go through the typical alignment where you get the points of a drive center and live center to match within some eyeball tolerance, but all that means is that the two axes cross each other at that particular point since the procedure does nothing to correct for angular misalignment.

Now lets take the case in which we are drilling from the tailstock and there is a foregone understanding that the two axes are not in perfect alignment. In this case, the drill remains stationary while the wood is rotating. Here is the problem: The wood is spinning about the headstock spindle centerline axis while the drill is in a fixed position along the tailstock axis. Even though the alignment error is very small, it still results in a very significant side loading of the drill and it only gets worse as the drilling progresses. If you want a precise diameter, this method is also bad news because the side oading is wallowing out the hole.

In the case of drilling from the headstock, think of it simply as a drill press on its side. It does not really matter where the tailstock centerline is located because only the axis of the drill is involved in drilling the hole.

The other suggestion that I have has already been made, bu is worth repeating: use only light feed pressure and clear the chips out of the hole frequently.

Bill

 

[Wilford Bickel]

Using the right drill bits!

I watched a demo at our last club meeting and the demonstrator was using a fostner bit to drill a hole to start hollowing with a hollowing rig. He had to make numerous in/out cycles to allow the fostner bit to clear the shavings. I asked him why he was using this bit over a spiral drill bit that would clean out the shavings and he said basically because it gave a smoother finish. I did not push it but why would he need a smooth finish on a hole he was going to start hollowing out??? I have a large set of drill bits with shanks downsized to fit my 1/2 inch chucks and find they do much better drilling as they move the shavings out of the hole. I will admit even with them you have to clear them a few times but you just don't seem to get the stress on the tailstock unit that a fostner or spade bit will give. I love my fostner bits for shallow holes but really go for my spiral bits and work my sizes up from small to large when drilling deep holes.

Wilford

 

[john lucas]

To follow up on what the last two have said. If you want a really accurate hole it should be bored instead of drilled. Drilling will follow the grain somewhat now matter how big the drill. If you look at a lamp auger, it only has one tooth. This is more of boring action. The same with a metal lathe.
I try to use twist drills to drill out waste on hollow vessels but I don't go overboard. It's pretty fast to cut this out with my hollowing tools. I have a 1" x 14" twist drill that I picked up at the flea mkt. It had a #3 morse taper on it so I had it turned down to a 1/2" shank so I could us it in my tailstock. It vibrates and doesn't run true but who cares. I'm just using it to waste away wood. It also take very little pressure to drill with compared to my forestner bits.