Help With Oneway Easy Core

[Griesbach]

I just got the Oneway Easy Core system with the number one and two knives. Yesterday, all excited, I cut and formed some 15" to 16" blanks of silver maple to try the system and quickly ran into a problem. Seems as though every time I ran into the slightest resistance I would get a minor catch and the blank would break off the tenon. Now, the largest jaws I have for my supernova2 will only give me about a 2.25 dia. tenon and I'm suspecting that this just isn't enough to provide and adequate hold. I'm considering going to the 130mm jaw set in hopes that this will cure this situation and would like any and all suggestions.

I've watched the instructional information several times and I'm quite sure I've set up the equipment properly. However, the instructions on sharpening of the cutter are quite unsatisfactory because of poor camera work. Advice on this will also be appreciated.

I'm using this on a PM 3520B at about 400 RPM for the coring.

Thanks,

 

[Steve Worcester]

The tenon size is a major factor. On a bowl that size, I would be with about a 4" + compression tenon. I don't know if those are smooth (inside) walled jaws or not, but I went to a dovetail jaw on my oneway stronghold because of the same problem you are having (with Ash though).

Also make sure the tenon doesn't bottom out on the chuck but rides flat up against the top of the jaws. That will give it a larger surface to bear the sideways force the cutter puts on it.

The speed isn't an issue, but chip clearing is big and stopping to readjust the follower (finger or whatever it is).

As far as sharpening the cutter, touch up the edge with a diamond file, until you hit a rock, then just use a fine wheel and duplicate the grind on it.

(Now when the instructions used to tell you to regrind the profile completely, that was a different story)

 

[gkulibert]

You could always come over and borrow a chuck with bigger jaws to see if that works. I usually use the #3 jaws on my stronghold with a 5" diam tenon.
Even so if your tenon is sapwood it may break off no matter what.

 

[Ed Koenig]

Double check to be sure your cutter is dead center on your spindle. If it is above the center point, you will have problems.

Ed

 

[Griesbach]

Thanks for the help so far. Hope to get more comments.

Greg, I'll call you when I get some stuff ready to try again soon.

 

[Gynia]

Using the tailstock will help a LOT.

 

[Steve Worcester]

I did forget the tailstock part. You can get a morse taper extention pretty cheap and it is deigned so that you can use one.

 

[bob elliott]

Double check to be sure your cutter is dead center on your spindle. If it is above the center point, you will have problems.

Ed

I've found that the centering of the cutter is an important issue. I do this by getting the Easy Core ready and on the lathe, but not tightened, the blank in the chuck ready to be cored. Then swing the blade around toward the tailstock. Bring the tailstock / live center point up toward the cutter tip and determine if they are dead center. If not, make the necessary adjustment, and recheck. Once this is set initially, it should not have to be reset every time you core, unless you use the Easy Core on a different lathe.

 

[spinsdawood]

If you go to the Oneway site on the opening page in the upper right corner is a MEDIA button. Click on that and it will take you to several down loads. One of them will help you with your coring tool. I have the directions that come with their tools to be somewhat lacking, especially for one with no experience. The folks @ Oneway are also friendly and helpful if you call their 800#.
Jim