Help needed for finishing bowls

[Old Bolivian]

Hi,

Could some of you walk me through the process of finishing a bowl. Those that I coat with oil are smooth but not shiny and when I spray them with lacquer they are shiny but not smooth. I've finally made some bowls that don't reveal my sloppy turning techniques so clearly, and would like them to look nice. Thanks, HB

 

[KenN]

HB,

Stand back, I'll bet you'll get a bunch of methods to chew on. I finish on the lathe using either tung oil or satin wipe-on polyurethane with the same technique for both. With the piece chucked in the lathe and spinning, I apply the finish with a paper rag (blue towel type) - not enough at a time to spray around the studio - until the whole piece is nice and wet. Then I burnish the surface back and forth over the whole piece with enough pressure to let friction heat the finish - forcing it into the wood and hardening it. Then I sand lightly with 400 P grit and repeat the whole application and burnishing, then finish with a final burnishing using a white scoth-brite pad. Tight, hard woods can be done at one crack while thirsty woods may need to be returned to in a couple days.

Both the oil and wipe-on poly give an oil-like finish with a very smooth, hard surface and nice reflected highlights without that high plastic look of lacquer.

If you are doing work intended for food another material might be better and I could not comment on how this method might work with walnut oil, for example. I'd be interested in other's experience.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Difference between surface or built-up finishes and penetrating finishes is the reason. You'll want to suit the finish to the intended use if you're making something to be used rather than just looked at. Makes a popcorn bowl a simple oil finish at my house, a salad bowl gets a couple thinned coats of poly and a scuff off of any surface shine, while dry use bowls for nuts/chips get built-up coats of varnish. Looker stuff generally gets shellac, either a seal under wax or a full build, depending on my objective.

Penetrating finishes don't make a new level surface to return the light to the eye unless you do many coats. If you want a higher return on light, you can burnish the wood, perhaps even wet sand to soften the pores. Long oil finishes are soft, so they just don't buff like a high-solids type will.

I don't like to finish on the lathe. It's pretty messy, and I hate to clean up anything. Better to finish off the lathe for me, and in a place far away from where I'm generating dust. Now if there were only a cure for dog hair.

 

[Martin Braun]

I have had good success with poly gel varnish lately for display pieces. The general procedure is to apply with a lint free cloth (I use old nylon stockings). Then let set for a few minutes, then buff off with something more absorbent (I use an old, clean sock). I finish off the lathe for the reasons Michael mentioned.

The reason I like it is because it gives a nice satin finish with just a hint of shine for the camera. It is not sticky like wipe on or thicker poly, so no dust nibs to sand back. One can blend in different sections quite nicely if the geometry of the piece does not allow the entire piece to be finished at once. It builds really well, and one can often do 3-4 coats or more in a day depending on conditions. That's been my experience. I'm sure other folks have their favorites and I'll be looking forward to trying them too.

 

[Bernie Weishapl]

I like Mahoney's walnut oil and then his walnut oil/beeswax/carnuba wax he put's out on most of the stuff we use to eat with. Salad bowls I like Seal-A-Cell and then Arm-R-Seal. I have some mahogany salad bowls about 2 yrs. old with the Seal-A-Cell then Arm-R-Seal that still look great. If they are for show I like Waterlox or will use tung oil followed by wipe on poly or Lawrence-McFaddens poly gel varnish.

 

[S. Clark]

I have found that the key to a successful finish, no matter what type or brand, is to have an intimate knowledge of the material you're applying. Strictly follow the manufacture's instructions at least until you have a feel for how the product was designed to work. Once you have the feel for drying times at different temperatures and humidity levels, its' response on different wood densities, its' ability to build, its' ability to sand and buff etc., you can then tweak your process. Start simple and follw the manufactures instructions.

DO SAMPLES! This is boring but well worth the time and it may well save you spoiling an otherwise nice turning. Turn some simple cylinders out of scraps from your other projects and apply finishes to these. You'll learn a lot! If you are trying to apply finish to textured surfaces, make sample boards or turnings and texture those. Then test the finish.

 

[Martin Braun]

I second the sample idea. The samples stay in the shop for comparison later. Don't have to try to remember what a finish piece looked like or look for the finished pieces hidden in your house if you still have them.