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I am pretty new at this stuff so can someone tell me what you do to put oil, wax, and that type of stuff. Hou to do this? What are cheap but good brands, ant that type of stuff to buy.
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help me
- Thread starter flyturnskater
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Is this a question about final finishing a turning? It's not clear from your question.
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yes
sorry I guess it didnt make sense 😀 but yes after it is done being turned.
sorry I guess it didnt make sense 😀 but yes after it is done being turned.
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Simple Finish
I have a special, secret, formula for a finish which is easy to use and simple to make. We have to keep this a secret, because I'd like to sell it at some kind of woodturning meeting. (HA!)
There is a simple finish product which you can use on bowls, jars, spindles, etc (not recommended for pens) that you can blend. Just get a quart of white or clear shellac, a quart of boiled lindseed oil and a quart of denatured alcohol. Then go to the dollar store and get a baby's sippy cup with a lid that closes or ketchup squeeze bottles with lids that close.
Now mix the three components in a plastic cup, just use 2 ounces of each one for the first batch. It does have a shelf life. Pour into your dispenser and save your marked cup for the next batch.
To use this product, apply it directly to the wood with a paper towel while it is moving at a slow speed. (If you're a beginner you have to be told now that you never, never, never, ever take a rag to your spinning lathe.) keep the paper towel, which is folded into a pad, moving around the piece. The finish will slowly develop. Here's what's happening.
Shellac, one of the oldest finishes known, which can be put over and under most other finishes, is now sealing the pores of the wood. The denatured alcohol acted as a solvent to break down and loosed the particulates of the shellac. The boiled linseed oil is acting as a lubricant and a top coat for the finish. As you work the pad you are adding shellac, moving it around to be uniform and then sealing and polishing it. Start with something dense like cocobolo sanded to 400 grit. When you finish you won't believe the depth and clarity of the finish. The Bayou Woodturners call this finish "O.B.'s Shine Jiuce" because one our club sage brought this to us years ago and he sticks by this finish on most of his projects. As a joke, we packaged some and put a lable on it that says, "if it was any easier, I'd have to come over and put it on for you." Good luck with finishes. Now you'll have to endure about 99 other opinions on finishes, most will be excellent, read them all and heed them all. The worst thing a woodturner can do is put a bad finish to a good turning.
I have a special, secret, formula for a finish which is easy to use and simple to make. We have to keep this a secret, because I'd like to sell it at some kind of woodturning meeting. (HA!)
There is a simple finish product which you can use on bowls, jars, spindles, etc (not recommended for pens) that you can blend. Just get a quart of white or clear shellac, a quart of boiled lindseed oil and a quart of denatured alcohol. Then go to the dollar store and get a baby's sippy cup with a lid that closes or ketchup squeeze bottles with lids that close.
Now mix the three components in a plastic cup, just use 2 ounces of each one for the first batch. It does have a shelf life. Pour into your dispenser and save your marked cup for the next batch.
To use this product, apply it directly to the wood with a paper towel while it is moving at a slow speed. (If you're a beginner you have to be told now that you never, never, never, ever take a rag to your spinning lathe.) keep the paper towel, which is folded into a pad, moving around the piece. The finish will slowly develop. Here's what's happening.
Shellac, one of the oldest finishes known, which can be put over and under most other finishes, is now sealing the pores of the wood. The denatured alcohol acted as a solvent to break down and loosed the particulates of the shellac. The boiled linseed oil is acting as a lubricant and a top coat for the finish. As you work the pad you are adding shellac, moving it around to be uniform and then sealing and polishing it. Start with something dense like cocobolo sanded to 400 grit. When you finish you won't believe the depth and clarity of the finish. The Bayou Woodturners call this finish "O.B.'s Shine Jiuce" because one our club sage brought this to us years ago and he sticks by this finish on most of his projects. As a joke, we packaged some and put a lable on it that says, "if it was any easier, I'd have to come over and put it on for you." Good luck with finishes. Now you'll have to endure about 99 other opinions on finishes, most will be excellent, read them all and heed them all. The worst thing a woodturner can do is put a bad finish to a good turning.
Thanks Cappy! I'm gonna give it a try! How many coats are the norm and do you sand in between?
The answer to your question is wide open and can head a thousand directions. Finishing turnings (and any wood work) has many options. You can spend more time finishing than turning and some people do. As a new turner, here's what I'd suggest. Keep finishing simple and focus your learniong on the turning aspect first.
Oil finishes are some of the easiest to use and don't require special processes. Mineral oil being the simplest, is a non-hardening penitrant. Food safe too. Walnut oil is another. Tung oil is used in many combinations with other ingredients but is simple to use on its' own. Dozens of companies sell oil solutions that wiped on and produce nice results; Watco is an example. Just keep it simple at first rather than to try and achieve some kind of hi-gloss museum like surface.
- Scott
Oil finishes are some of the easiest to use and don't require special processes. Mineral oil being the simplest, is a non-hardening penitrant. Food safe too. Walnut oil is another. Tung oil is used in many combinations with other ingredients but is simple to use on its' own. Dozens of companies sell oil solutions that wiped on and produce nice results; Watco is an example. Just keep it simple at first rather than to try and achieve some kind of hi-gloss museum like surface.
- Scott
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I usually work finishes until I'm finished. (Tuesday is my day to be a philosopher) It all depends on the wood. Dense stuff like the hard exotics can take 2-3 applications about 5 minutes apart. Soft woods may take a few more, but at shorter intervals.
I forgot to mention that the product is "Boiled Linseed Oil". Do not attempt to boil plain linseed oil. That is a dangerous proposition and you could make the newspaper. I remember reading on one of the forums suggestions on how to produce this product. Don't even try, buy it right the first time. I normally get mine at Sherwin Williams or other quality paint outlets.
I forgot to mention that the product is "Boiled Linseed Oil". Do not attempt to boil plain linseed oil. That is a dangerous proposition and you could make the newspaper. I remember reading on one of the forums suggestions on how to produce this product. Don't even try, buy it right the first time. I normally get mine at Sherwin Williams or other quality paint outlets.
finishing
Bear in mind that turned wood is still just wood so any wood finish will do. Depends on what kind of result you're looking for. If you want to go about the easiest route possible buy a can of Deft spray lacquer from the hardware store. Spray light coats on your finished turning, every fifteen minutes. As many coats as you like... it dries that fast. If you keep the can 12" away from the piece and don't slop it on you won't get any runs or sags. No sanding between coats. No oily mess to mix or clean up.
Oh... do it in a well ventilated area too, not on the lathe :cool2:
Bear in mind that turned wood is still just wood so any wood finish will do. Depends on what kind of result you're looking for. If you want to go about the easiest route possible buy a can of Deft spray lacquer from the hardware store. Spray light coats on your finished turning, every fifteen minutes. As many coats as you like... it dries that fast. If you keep the can 12" away from the piece and don't slop it on you won't get any runs or sags. No sanding between coats. No oily mess to mix or clean up.
Oh... do it in a well ventilated area too, not on the lathe :cool2:
Captain Eddie said:
What is sold as "boiled" isn't actually boiled any more. The term is used to refer to a product that has the same properties as old fashioned boiled linseed oil. Now a day it is all processed chemically.
- Scott
Cap'n Eddie,
Do you sand between coats?
Do you sand between coats?
This sounds like a great finish! Thanks Cap. Eddy! Would this work in an unheated workshop in the North East? Just wondering if temps. will ruin the process.
The Cap'n's secret formula sounds a whole lot like friction polish.
Cap, I'll suggest you'll get a more durable finish if you use dewaxed shellac, either mix-ur-own or Zinser's SealCoat, to avoid the wax content that will tend to attract moisture and dull over time. The oil's going to pop the grain, but the excess will wind up on your rag about like French Polishing.
Good suggestion!
M
Cap, I'll suggest you'll get a more durable finish if you use dewaxed shellac, either mix-ur-own or Zinser's SealCoat, to avoid the wax content that will tend to attract moisture and dull over time. The oil's going to pop the grain, but the excess will wind up on your rag about like French Polishing.
Good suggestion!
M
Big fan of plain old eurythane oils, in their myriad forms, here. Ease of use, availability, difficulty of truly screwing up, depth of finish, durability, all are good qualities of this finish.
Products range from tung oil (the kind that actually contains no tung oil) to Danish oil, to waterlox, to varios brands of eurythane oil. I use oil based because it gets a nice, wet look and great depth. Use as many coats as wanted to reach the finish you want, let sit for a week or two, then buff.
Dietrich
Products range from tung oil (the kind that actually contains no tung oil) to Danish oil, to waterlox, to varios brands of eurythane oil. I use oil based because it gets a nice, wet look and great depth. Use as many coats as wanted to reach the finish you want, let sit for a week or two, then buff.
Dietrich