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Handle adapters

olaf Vogel

olaf Vogel

Joined
Mar 10, 2015
Messages
347
Likes
150
Location
Aurora, Ont, CA
Website
www.revolvingarts.ca
I've made a couple of really long chisel handles, out of seamless steel tubing. Cheap, available in any diameter and length. 8 feet of 3/4" tubing, with 1/8 wall thickness was a whopping $15 (only because that was the minimum charge - and the guy was really apologetic).

Since steel pipe is not comfortable to hold, I wrap it in cheap rope, really tight, then put hockey tape over top, for grip. That has a nice textured feel to it.

(So everyone here who makes their own fancy handles is now thinking YUCK! True, they are not pretty)

For my 3/4" chisel, its just slides into the tubing. I drilled hole in the side of the tubing, a buddy brazed on a couple of nuts on the side, so I can use set screws to hold the chisel securely.

But for 1/2" and 5/8" I need some adapters. The options I know are:

Hosoluk - not a big fan, very loose tolerances and sloppy fit.

Oneway - makes some their hollowing bar. B they all are only for downsizing (3/4" -> 5/8") - weird, downsizing doesn't strike me as a great idea.

Kelton - The ends on the handles are very nice, good fit, chunky, but not sold separately.

Are there any other options out there?

thanks
Olaf
 
Why not make your own. Aluminum and Brass are both easy to turn with HSS turning tools. You may need to learn to drill and tap holes if set screws are the holding method you want to use. This way you can make them exactly the size you want.
 
John King said:
What's the romance with steel handle? Turn a wood handle to comfortable size and shape. Bore end to match chisel diameter. Install chisel. Finish optional. Done! No adapter required. No rope. No tape. Good looking. Not ugly. - John
Click to expand...

I agree wholeheartedly, and my preference is a permanent mount in a wooden handle.......however, some turners buy those two ended turning tools. For those, I think there is no other option than to use them in a quick-change handle.

ko
 
John:

I have made my own handles that way for quite a while, but want something stronger and longer. Besides, that combo honestly feels good to use and I like being able mix and match handles with inserts.

The current one is 36" long. If I can figure out a good tool holding solution, then I'll make my own boring bar
setup that way. I've max out my Oneway set up.

Dave, that looks like a good Home Depot tip, will give it a try.
Otherwise I will try turning some AL to fit. Drilling and tapping is no issue.

Thanks
Olaf
 
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Only thing wrong with the steel handles to me is the weight. Just too much for a long day of turning. I have a set of inserts that I use for my hollowing rig, which are sleeves that fit into a 3/4 inch hole. Not sure, but think I got them from Craft Supplies.

robo hippy
 
Robo

My first attempts were with Home Depot grade steel tubing. Thick, heavy stuff. Worked ok. Rusted.
This time its high grade seamless tubing. 8 feet of 1" with 1/8" wall thickness only weighed about 5 lbs.

That wall thickness seemed a bit thin, but I pushed it hard on the weekend, including a couple of intentional catches...didnt bend or dent.
That was a captive bar setup, about 5' long on my oneway rig.

I admit, that my Thompson chisels/handles are my favourite, so far.... But the painted AL is too slippery for me and the barrel too thin for my big mitts.
So I wrapped those in rope to get a larger diameter and liked the feel.

To each their own.

Olaf
 
I'm with Raul. I have 2" billets of osage orange and ash. First I drill a 1/4" hole about 4" down, drill a hole to match the tool down to the 1/4" hole, round the handle to desired shape, and then slot with a "kerfy" bandsaw cut. Then insert the tool and tighten with a genuine Home Depot hose clamp.
I can change tools about as fast as anyone using those expensive gizmos from the suppliers or various turning-gods.
For hollowing, I use the standard Rolle Munro 3/4" on an ash handle - since I hold on the end, I turn an oval end by utilizing two center-points at the live-center.
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
I have one Sorby handle that came with a kit. I prefer handles on all tools and changeability just not my favorite thing to do. Just wondering for those who do like to change tool in one handle.......What do you do with the tool when not mounted?
Click to expand...
I have dedicated handles on most tif the turning tools.
My hollowing tools and bowl coring tools are the exception.
I use the Jamieson handle and the mcNaughton handles for these respecively.
When these are not staged for use they live in drawers.
 
I have an assortment of cutters, and swap between handles all the time.
Often I use them in my boring bar as well.

So I swap combinations as required. The Thompson handles are excellent for this. The Kelton's are a close second. Neither are cheap.

I'm looking to create a alternative.

I have used Hosaluk ferules, with wood handles. Despite using heavy duty handles from ash and maple, this not been strong enough.

The Hosaluk ferules require a fairly large hole to be drilled in the handle, leaving a fairly thin handle wall. Plus they are short. Since I work on large pieces, hence longer overhang, that puts a lot of stress on the end of the wood handle. In my experience, they crack, split and fail. My only successful version was about 2" diameter, then tightly wrapped with kite string and covered in glue. That lasted a few years.

For smaller work - I agree this would likely work.

So if I still want to swap cutters and handles, then the only solution I foresee is steel pipe/tubing. And as you can see above, I don't mind the feel, if its covered.
 
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