I have a Rikon grinder with the standard wheels. Might have some extra $$$$ later this year and need some input on the CBN wheels. Appreciate your experience and recommendations.
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Grinder wheels?
- Thread starter John Torchick
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I used some CBN wheels at demos and was impressed with how smooth the felt when using them
Soon after our club got a group order deal with Ken Rizzo. I got an 80 and a 180 wheel.
I use the 80 on my bowl gouges and the 180 on most everything else.
I mostly turn green wood.
One benefit is not having to true the surface multiple times a day
The aggregate wheels wear as soon as you use the so they are a tiny bit off true most of the time.
CBNs probably put a slightly better edge on the particle metal tools than Ceramic wheels.
Soon after our club got a group order deal with Ken Rizzo. I got an 80 and a 180 wheel.
I use the 80 on my bowl gouges and the 180 on most everything else.
I mostly turn green wood.
One benefit is not having to true the surface multiple times a day
The aggregate wheels wear as soon as you use the so they are a tiny bit off true most of the time.
CBNs probably put a slightly better edge on the particle metal tools than Ceramic wheels.
If you're only going to get one, get the 180 grit CBN wheel. You will also need to get a set of those self centering washers to keep the CBN wheel centered on the grinder shaft. There are several configurations of the CBN wheel. Squared edge, radiused edge, grit part way down the side of the wheel. I never use anything except the face of the wheel with the wolverine jig. I suppose there is a purpose for the different configurations. Perhaps someone can enlighten us about them.
I just got an 80 and 180 sparton cbn from woodturners wonders. So far I love them. I got the centering washers as well.
They were a perfect fit and appear to be running true on my cheap amazon powertec grinder. They get up to speed quick and don't take forever to slow down. So far im getting a very nice edge.
They were a perfect fit and appear to be running true on my cheap amazon powertec grinder. They get up to speed quick and don't take forever to slow down. So far im getting a very nice edge.
I bought a set (80-grit and 180-grit) of wheels from Ken Rizza over 6 years ago ... couldn't be any happier.
I got 80 and 180 as well. Takes forever to reshape tools though.
I use a 80 grit CBN for shaping And a 600 grit for sharpening.
Have 80 and 180 on my personal grinder that only I use. Have another grinder with 180 CBN and a stone on the other side for roughing in a shape. This grinder is for the general shop for hands on or visitors etc.
If you are getting one, then get the 180. If you get a second one, I would suggest the 600. I found out, through lots of use, that the burrs on my scrapers were equally good from the 80 or 180. I got a 600 on a whim (engineers, if it ain't broke, take it apart and fix it anyway), and found out that on some woods, that 600 grit edge made a huge difference in the finish cut. There seems to be 2 schools on edges, coarse/more serrated edge cuts cleaner and lasts longer, and fine edge/less serrated edge cuts cleaner and lasts longer. I prefer a 180 for about 90% of what I do. With the 600 grit edge, it does not seem to be suited for heavy roughing. The burr from a 600 grit wheel seems to be okay for a NRS, but not for my Big Ugly scrapers. I do get a nice burr for my shear scrapers. Wheel life, according to Stuart Batty, and I agree, is about 5 years for a production turner. Shaping on CBN wheels is rather slow. Slightly changing the profile is not, though if I was going to do a lot of it, I would want a fresh 80 grit wheel, or one of the 40 grit wheels that come on some of the older shop grinders. I do have a 36 grit belt sander too...
I did have a conversation with Ken Rizza about his centering washers. They solve the problem of the nuts on most grinders, which are not precision machined and can lead to run out on your grinding wheels. Some day, when I get 'a-round-2-it', I will chuck one up and turn the surfaces flat just to see if it makes a difference. Never had any wobble problems on my Baldor grinders, but minimal ones on my Rikon 1 hp models. When the wheels got up to full speed, the wobble was about 95% gone.
robo hippy
I did have a conversation with Ken Rizza about his centering washers. They solve the problem of the nuts on most grinders, which are not precision machined and can lead to run out on your grinding wheels. Some day, when I get 'a-round-2-it', I will chuck one up and turn the surfaces flat just to see if it makes a difference. Never had any wobble problems on my Baldor grinders, but minimal ones on my Rikon 1 hp models. When the wheels got up to full speed, the wobble was about 95% gone.
robo hippy
Thanks to all. I did a search after I posted but this is up to date. I think I would keep my coarse wheel for shaping and a 180 CBN for sharpening. I'll hit up the family for Father's Day.
I’ll start by warning I’m no expert or master turner- but I’ve been experimenting with several grits of CBN wheels lately.
I went down to visit Ken, his warehouse is a short drive from here and was able to pick up some of the Megasquare scratch and dent wheels- my plan was to only get one and replace my 220 but since they were cheap(er) I grabbed a 350 and a 600 to compare to my Spartan 220/80 setup. My plan was to sell some wheels but I’m not sure which ones to sell just yet.
The only thing I use the 80 any more is for major shaping which is rare. I do use it to remove the heel on my gouges. The 220 is set up for jig sharpening for my son. I do all my sharpening by hand on platforms.
Bowl gouges: I feel like the 350 hits the sweet spot for sharp but still able to remove material. The 600 does leave a great finish for final cuts but it's not light and day (in my hand). It does cut a good bit slower. I can't tell if one edge lasts longer than the other just yet. I sharpen frequently with the 600 for my final cuts. I'll keep playing between the two but right now I shape with the 350 and finish cuts off the 600. My son was learning to hollow on some bone dry walnut and I alternated between the 600 and 350 for sharpening and they both seemed to have a similar life span on the edge. These are Dway gouges and Thompson gouges. I feel like the Thompson likes the 350 better for sure. It cuts really slow off the 600 wheel.
For my negative rake scraper (Thompson) the 350 gives me a great burr. I definitely get less tear out than when I was using the 80 grit wheel like a lot of folks say to do. I need to compare it to the 220 wheel. The burr off the 600 grit wheel barely cuts anything.
If I had to use only one grinder I would definitely have a 350 and probably a 180 I could use for scrapers or shaping. The 600 is a luxury. I feel like the utility of the 80 is limited. How often am I doing a major reshaping of my tools?
I went down to visit Ken, his warehouse is a short drive from here and was able to pick up some of the Megasquare scratch and dent wheels- my plan was to only get one and replace my 220 but since they were cheap(er) I grabbed a 350 and a 600 to compare to my Spartan 220/80 setup. My plan was to sell some wheels but I’m not sure which ones to sell just yet.
The only thing I use the 80 any more is for major shaping which is rare. I do use it to remove the heel on my gouges. The 220 is set up for jig sharpening for my son. I do all my sharpening by hand on platforms.
Bowl gouges: I feel like the 350 hits the sweet spot for sharp but still able to remove material. The 600 does leave a great finish for final cuts but it's not light and day (in my hand). It does cut a good bit slower. I can't tell if one edge lasts longer than the other just yet. I sharpen frequently with the 600 for my final cuts. I'll keep playing between the two but right now I shape with the 350 and finish cuts off the 600. My son was learning to hollow on some bone dry walnut and I alternated between the 600 and 350 for sharpening and they both seemed to have a similar life span on the edge. These are Dway gouges and Thompson gouges. I feel like the Thompson likes the 350 better for sure. It cuts really slow off the 600 wheel.
For my negative rake scraper (Thompson) the 350 gives me a great burr. I definitely get less tear out than when I was using the 80 grit wheel like a lot of folks say to do. I need to compare it to the 220 wheel. The burr off the 600 grit wheel barely cuts anything.
If I had to use only one grinder I would definitely have a 350 and probably a 180 I could use for scrapers or shaping. The 600 is a luxury. I feel like the utility of the 80 is limited. How often am I doing a major reshaping of my tools?
I started my CBN journey with an 80 grit and a 180 grit wheel. Then I got the 600 grit I sharpen as often as I did with the 180 but take off less steel it’s like honing. I am a much better turner with a (600 grit) sharp tool.
to every thing turn turn turn
Tim
to every thing turn turn turn
Tim
John, there's nothing wrong with the white wheels that came with the grinder. Most of us used them happily for years. Like others, I appreciate the benefits of the CBN wheels, but they're not necessary to get sharp tools. The white wheels allow you to see the sparks coming over the top of the steel, so you know when you're sharp, which you won't get with CBN. Just thinking out loud here. Maybe there is something even more useful the family could get you for Father's Day. A new knee, for example. 
I know there was a trend a while back to go to the higher grit CBN wheels and they do get the tool sharper. But the downside to that is the tool does not stay sharp as long as one sharpened with the 180 grit wheel. Not looking for an argument but have heard this more than a few times. Also the white wheels work great the downside of the white wheel vs the CBN is the white wheels constantly change in diameter. I use the Vector Grind Fixture and as stated I alone use that grinder (in other words the fixture never moves) and because of that (because the CBN wheel stays the same diameter) I take only one or two thousands of an inch off every time I sharpen. Team that up with the 10V Thompson tools I use (which stay sharper longer anyway) I am never going to wear these tools out.
Hi, Dean! I have the new knee covered...when I need it which may be sooner than I anticipate. Don't know if I want more turning stuff or more fishing tackle. Decisions, decisions!
I guess I'll keep the original wheels and replace them with something when they wear out.
I guess I'll keep the original wheels and replace them with something when they wear out.
Atlanta Braves season tickets?
Also the white wheels work great the downside of the white wheel vs the CBN is the white wheels constantly change in diameter. I use the Vector Grind Fixture and as stated I alone use that grinder (in other words the fixture never moves) and because of that (because the CBN wheel stays the same diameter) I take only one or two thousands of an inch off every time I sharpen. Team that up with the 10V Thompson tools I use (which stay sharper longer anyway) I am never going to wear these tools out.
Exactly that. I use a Wolverine and like not having adjust the arm. Needing to regularly dress the wheels was also annoying.
A bit off topic- Grandson reported for Braves spring training next week. Just need to see where he will be assigned at the end of ST. That determines our vacation spot. BTW, he left early to avoid the cold weather. Mexico, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico sort of spoiled them. Australia's seasons are reversed to our winter; summer down under.
You know you're going to need to turn him a really nice bat, right?
He already has a bunch of bats. Only thing would be getting it approved by the MLB.
Suggestion- If you are near Louisville, KY, stop in at the Hillerich & Bradsbury plant and see how bats are made now. Fully CNC! If you order a custom bat, get it before the tour so it will be ready when you are done. Wife took my photo with Ronald Acuna's bat and Mickey Mantle's bat. Well worth the time and $$$$.
Suggestion- If you are near Louisville, KY, stop in at the Hillerich & Bradsbury plant and see how bats are made now. Fully CNC! If you order a custom bat, get it before the tour so it will be ready when you are done. Wife took my photo with Ronald Acuna's bat and Mickey Mantle's bat. Well worth the time and $$$$.
That's why you should get one of Ken's 60 grit wheels like I just did-- just for the reshaping jobs.
D-way has the 60 grit as well.