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Green Holly

C

Clemens

Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
13
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Location
West End, NC
I have some green holly available. Sections of logs with waxed ends crack (not check) quickly. I've turned small forms with oversize walls (as I do with other woods) and set them aside to dry for months. They all crack: not only small cracks but some very large destructive cracks. I've also tried using a microwave on defrost and a plastic bag while cooling between insertions in the microwave. I still encounter cracks, especially multiple small cracks where there is branch growth. Vessels also quickly go oval during drying. I like the appearance of the wood: almost white with very slight color and grain variations, but I sure could use some advice on processing it. I'd really appreciate any suggestions from anyone who has used green holly.
Dale Clemens
 
Clemens, Holly is always a challenge to dry. The evaporation rate is amazing. I had a bowl blank on the lathe crack when I went to lunch one day - -less than an hour! I turn it green, sink it in DNA, pray, and wrap it in newspapers, put it in a double grocery bag, and pray some more. About half the time I still lose the ruff bowl. Never allow a knot, or a pith to be in the bowl, that is rule NR. 1. Good luck! Philip
 
I just got some fresh holly and have been learning to turn it. So far not very good results. All of them are cracking. It is very non forgiving. I have one successful piece a thin wall bowl. About 2mm thick. The problem with my holly is that it all has a more or less rotten pith area. This area cracks no matter what. On the thin bowl I was able to stop the cracking by putting thin CA on it after just about every other cut once I got down to 1/4".
I turned a ball out of one chuck and it had the pith area in it. I cracked and opened up and looks like a packman. That one is kind of cool.
I'm also having problems with parts of it turning green or gray after it's turned. Some of these areas correspond to the direction of the turning tools which makes me think there is a correlation between the tannic acid and the steel of the tool. I've been told that lemon juice might help that. I'm going to try it on the next piece.
 
You need to turn green holly thin. That is the only successful formula I have found. By thin I mean 1/8†or less. If you do to much to slow the drying you’ll get the gray staining. You can cure the gray or greenish stains by bleaching after the wood has dried. Get all your sanding completed then use the two part wood bleach to whiten the material again.

- Scott
 
I've not had any trouble with cracking in American Holly.

I have a few 17" diameter bowls rough turned with 1 1/4 inch walls
no cracks. These I use the paper bags for drying.
lots of natural edge face grain hollow forms 10" dia, 3/16 wall can't remember any cracking. I usually spritz my hollow forms with water while i turn them.
Finished forms get spritzed then go into a cardboard box with the flaps closed overnight. flaps opened the next day, then to a shelf the next day and sanding on the 3rd day.

I also air dried a lot of stock up to 3x3 some of the 3x3 would occasionally develop a crack. It was a favorite wood for Christmas ornaments.
A holly ball with Paduk finials is hard to beat.

Biggest problem I've had with holly is blue stain. If I didn't turn it right away the blue stain generally ruined the wood for me and I couldn't get it to bleach out.

happy turning
Al
 
Last edited:
Clemens said:
I have some green holly available. Sections of logs with waxed ends crack (not check) quickly. I've turned small forms with oversize walls (as I do with other woods) and set them aside to dry for months. They all crack: not only small cracks but some very large destructive cracks. I've also tried using a microwave on defrost and a plastic bag while cooling between insertions in the microwave. I still encounter cracks, especially multiple small cracks where there is branch growth. Vessels also quickly go oval during drying. I like the appearance of the wood: almost white with very slight color and grain variations, but I sure could use some advice on processing it. I'd really appreciate any suggestions from anyone who has used green holly.
Dale Clemens
Click to expand...

I mostly gave up on it other than for practice work. If drying log sections, remove the pith and at least an inch on either side of the pith. I would suggest trying to turn it thin while still green and plan for the warping to be a part of the final product.
 
I think my problem is these were holly bushes. The center was trying to rot because water would get trapped in the middle. This is the area where I'm having all the trouble.
 
Barbara Gill said:
I don't understand it. I rarely have had Holly crack. Now Dogwood is a different story.
Click to expand...

First, thanks to all of you for your comments and help. My first time using the forum, and I see what I've missed! Now...Barbara, do you turn your holly green? and how do you process it? Thanks,
Dale
 
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