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glue waste block on green wood

Can assume that the way to turn green wood is between two center or four jaw chuck or a face plate. Please give me some advice on the best way. I have some Ash,Maple,Hickey and walnut :cool2:
 
Charles are you trying to turn bowls, hollow forms or ? If turning bowls and you want to line up the grain then between centers is one of the easiest methods. Keep drawing the tail stock in or your drive center may spin eventually. If lining the grain is not a concern then a pin chuck, screw chuck, face plate or between centers to turn the outside. Use a chuck or face plate for holding while turning the inside. There are more methods but these are the easiest.

If spindle turning then hold it in a chuck or between centers or pin chuck and again there are more methods but these are the easiest.

Dale
 
Charles,
I encourage,you to get some hands on instruction, mentoring, or at least watch a bowl demo.
Bowl turning done properly is one of the safer things you can do in woodworking.
Done improperly, you risk serious injury and death.

I start bowl students with a 9" diameter blank about 5" thick cut as a disk with a hole drilled in the center of one face.
This is mounted on a screw in the 4 jaw chuck.
They learn basic tool control, how to,shape a bowl, make a tenon, and how to hollow it.
After one or two bowls begun thus way I then have them turn bowls between centers with a spur drive and they learn to balance the grain

I consider glue blocks on green wood an advanced skill. I use thick CA for mounting the glue blocks. But the work has to be done quickly and the matting surfaces turned with slight conclaves to create the glue joint.

Work safely,
Al
 
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Charles Hill said:
Can assume that the way to turn green wood is between two center or four jaw chuck or a face plate. Please give me some advice on the best way. I have some Ash,Maple,Hickey and walnut :cool2:
Click to expand...

Most people turn green outside, reverse to inside, dry, re-turn. Makes it easy to just get a flat spot to attach a small faceplate, a wood screw with chuck, or other choices while supporting the other end with the tail stock. Lots safer to use something that penetrates and holds against a tool tip digging and flipping the piece up rather than use a spur center as many do.

If you have a chuck, suggest you use it with the screw, pin jaws, or pin chuck. I leave the pillar that the chuck holds in mine while the piece cures. No problem even leaving a pillar where your small faceplate mounted on a piece large enough. That way you're back between centers dry as you were wet.

So what resources available, and what low end on the lathe will give you a more specific method rather than general principles.
 
I do not have a chuck. I do have 3" face plate and 6" My thought is cut log in half put threw my plainer then cut then blank out are turn it with a face plate or between centers to about 90% Then let dry:cool2:
 
Glue blocks only work safely on dry wood. With no chuck, you can rough a blank with the chainsaw, or bandsaw, then attach the bottom of the bowl to the face plate, and turn. You can mount between centers, and turn a tenon to mount the face plate on. Main concern is to get the mounting place flat so when you screw the face plate down, it doesn't rock while you are trying to turn. Remember to account for the screws before you turn the outside form so you don't have screw holes in the bottom of your bowl, and hit them with your gouges and scrapers.

robo hippy
 
All you need for a faceplate is a flat spot so it can face snugly to the wood instead of rack against the screws. Quick and dirty method takes a piece of plywood and your rough cut to the drillpress. Wedge/screw to the plywood to maintain position, and use a Forstner and slide around to make overlapping bores, resulting in a flat surface to attach. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/Forstner-Flat.jpg

Turn, Dry, Turn is the easiest way to get a crack-free piece, so I'll say that if you have to sacrifice some depth to reverse by using a tenon, do so by either the big flat, with outside screwholes to be removed in dry turn, or inside the tenon small circle, where, once again, the traces can be removed when final turning. http://www.ptwoodturners.org/Tips and Handouts/Methods and Jigs for Reverse Turning Bowls.pdf

Lots of workarounds, almost all of which can be avoided by spending money!
 
While I almost always start turning between centers until I have a mounting spot for either a chuck or faceplate, I do not recommend it for a beginner unless there is a mentor available to show how to statically balance the piece so that it does not try to shake loose as it is being initially shaped.

I do not spend a great deal of time between centers because I would like to get a more solid mounting rather quickly. Otherwise, it is likely that the drive center will auger a deeper hole if the wood is green ... and I am not a fan of high tailstock pressure ... and light pressure is something that the bearings appreciate.
 
Polyeurethane glue will bond to green wood but it won't fill a gap so your joint has to be really flat.
CA glue will bond to green wood but the joint is brittle so again not the best choice for a beginner.
Many years ago I learned to use hot glue to glue a faceplate to a blank but I heated the faceplate. It's not something I recommend for beginners but it's what I learned and used it for a while. If you don't have a heated faceplate the glue will start hardening before you get a really good bond to both surfaces.
The screw center is one of the safest ways but of course your committed to that center so you better have the wood aligned the way you want it.
 
I wonder if hot glue will melt if you use it to attach wood to a faceplate and then heated the faceplate in boiling water until the glue melt again
 
Thanks for all advice. I decided to do Michael Mouse wrote. Make flat spot to face on and then bring tailstock in.Then put a tenon on bottom of bowl to taken off when dry with jam chuck
 
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