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Glue question

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Mar 20, 2009
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I am planing on turning an 12"-18" lazy susan for our 4' wide eight sided table. I didn't find time yet to glue it up out of flat stock. Will super glue work ok for this. I have thick , medium & thin glue. This would allow me to glue up & turn it today.

I plan to make 2 pieces for this project a bottom & a top & cut a ring off the bottom that will be glued to the top to conceal the bottom. This ring will be glued to the bottom of the top piece. I also assume that the ring will need to be glued to the top with the grain running the same as the top for expansion & contraction.
 
Probably but I'm not sure. I haven't turned anything that large out of a CA glue up. Why not just use yellow glue. If the joint is good, the wood will be dry enough to turn in about 2 hours, 4 hours for sure. I normally wait overnight but I've turned glued up spindles after an hour. I would wait a little longer for something flat and large that would have more forces applied while turning.
 
CA glue will work however, you better be darn sure of wood placement and fit before gluing. Using yellow glue will allow you open time to adjust any pieces for proper alignment if needed. As John Lucas said,the glue will be dry enough to turn in about 2 hours, 4 hours for sure. IMHO A longer curing time would be wise with a piece as large as you are making but I have gotten away with it before.
 
Titebond III

I am planing on turning an 12"-18" lazy susan for our 4' wide eight sided table. I didn't find time yet to glue it up out of flat stock. Will super glue work ok for this. I have thick , medium & thin glue. This would allow me to glue up & turn it today.

I plan to make 2 pieces for this project a bottom & a top & cut a ring off the bottom that will be glued to the top to conceal the bottom. This ring will be glued to the bottom of the top piece. I also assume that the ring will need to be glued to the top with the grain running the same as the top for expansion & contraction.

Bart,

I have had great experience with titebond III, and highly recommend it!
 
I like titebond 11 and 111. I switched back to 11 because it was less runny and gave me less mess when doing complicated glue ups. I use 111 anytime I think it needs to be water resistant.
Whatever you do don't use CA and accelorator for long term glue ups. My experience is that it will come apart. Sooner rather than later. For small projects with little wood movement you might be Ok.
 
I'm a big fan of Gorilla glue as well as Titebond II. I don't use III at all, if I want water resistance I use Gorilla.
Tricky to get the hang of it though, it's real easy to use too much and then you have a mess, and you can't be in a hurry for curing. Overnight is the way to go. I've tried the other polyurethane glues that are really gorilla wannabes, and they're not in the same league at all. Real foamy and brittle, and a pain in the neck.

I, too, would not use CA on anything permanent, but then I don't use it anyway, it stinks, and I can't bring myself to trust instant anything. :)
 
Lazy susan

I make and sell a lot of Lazy Susans, ranging in size from 14" to 36" in diameter. I use a biscuit jointer and Elmer's carpenter glue to put the blanks together. The biscuits make it much easier to align the pieces to clamp them. One thing that is key to making your lazy susan is the make sure you have a registration point in the center of both blanks. The registration point is used to mount the faceplate to turn the blanks and then to drill the holes for, and mount, the bearings. You could consider adding an inlay to the center of the lazy susan as well to add a focus point and contrast. I use burls and unusual slices of wood along with semi-precious stones, like lapis, malachite, turquoise and onyx for inlay. Some time ago, I wrote an article describing the entire process to make a lazy susan, if you'd like a copy, drop me an email at tcarter771@bellsouth.net and I'll send it to you.
Tim Carter
 
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