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Glaser A11 gouges

  • Thread starter Thread starter mkart
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mkart

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Anyone out there using the Glaser A11 gouges. I just ordered one at a Michelsen demo. They appear to hold a sharp edge quite a bit longer than M2 steel. I was late on making a decision so the size I wanted was sold out. Now I am patiently waiting for my new investment to show up, looks like 3 weeks or so. Hopefully I can rough out more bowls with less sharpening. 🙂
 
The Glaser gouges are terrific to use. The longer lasting edge isn't much of an issue. The handle is my favorite part. There is one significant problem with the Glaser gouges.

Once you get used the gouge you will want another. As time goes by you will want to aquire more Glaser tools. After a couple of years and several more Glaser tools in you inventory you will start to wonder how much longer Jerry is going to be making the tools. That will "encourage" you (not that you will need much encouragement) to buy "spares" so that when the Glaser tools are no longer availble you will safely have a lifetime supply.

Congradulations on the new tool.
 
I have a 3/4" A-11 Glaser that I use for heavy roughing. In my view the A-11 alloy is a good "improvement" over M2, especially in large tools used to hog off heavy cuts, and a better value than the V-15 which is much more expensive for not much more durability.

My 1/2" bowl gouges are ASP 2060 steel which, similar to V-15, will spoil you with its durability to remain cutting, but fosters excessive delays in refreshing the edges on the wheel for finer cuts.

Mark
 
Thanks

Thanks for the feedback, I am patiently awaiting my new tool. I am also anxious to try out Johannes' specific grind.
 
Just curious. Is the metal used in the Glaser gouges powdered? And, if so, will they take as sharp an edge as HSS?

My understanding has been that HSS and carbon steel are "flaked" steels, allowing an edge to be built with the flakes laid out to form the cutting edge. Some of the higher grades of steel "powdered?" would be formed from small grains, adding strength and durability but removing the "flakes" and leaving an edge that cannot be sharpened to a point smaller than the size of the particulates used.

Could someone who knows better than me comment on this?

Dietrich

P.S.(have used Glaser gouges and they are terrific so this isn't a criticism, just a curiosity)
 
3/4 A11?

I have a V15 and just couldn't get it sharp with an ALOX wheel (unless I spent 5 minutes with a diamond hone), once I switched to an SG wheel, it gets twice as sharp and stays that way for about 3 times as long. I attended a workshop with Stuart batty in which he mentioned that, given the hardness of the V15, they could only be "cut" efficiently by Ceramic Seeded Gel Wheels, as Alox wheels only shattered the cutting edge.

Speaking of 3/4 A11 bowl gouges, I've been searching the world over for one of these guys and can only find the 3/4 in V/15 (Stuart also mentioned that V15 is too brittle for roughing and is more prone to breakage) - anyone have any good sources besides Packard? I'm down to the last 2 inches of flute on my current glaser, so, I'm eager to retire him to my "Favorite but, seldom used tool" rack.
 
Last edited:
devonpalmer said:
Speaking of 3/4 A11 bowl gouges, I've been searching the world over for one of these guys and can only find the 3/4 in V/15 (Stuart also mentioned that V15 is too brittle for roughing and is more prone to breakage) - anyone have any good sources besides Packard? I'm down to the last 2 inches of flute on my current glaser, so, I'm eager to retire him to my "Favorite but, seldom used tool" rack.
Click to expand...

Contact Jerry directly. I predict he'll be quite happy to "fix you up" with anything you want 😀

Mark
 
Why do I get the feeling that I'm going to be several hundred dollars poorer in a few months 🙂 Sometimes I wonder if I'm a woodturner or a tool collector... 😕

Speaking of, that would be a great thread: What is your favorite tool and why (especially custom homemade modified tools)
 
Don't retire your gouge, replace the steel!

Devon,
You can replace the steel portion of your gouge for about 60% of its origonal cost. Its easy to do, or so I'm told, with a hand held torch. If you call Jerry Glaser I am sure he will walk you through the process, as well as sell you the new gouge to be inserted into your handle. If you not interested in trying I'll buy your worn out gouge and do it for myself.
Good luck
mkart
 
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