I like using home made finishes as I work in low volume - it is a lot cheaper to mix only what is needed. The one commercial finish I've used for years is Waterlox - and I do have my way around the loss of that. I have a tall narrow apothecary "jar" that seals tight and holds about a cup, when I pour some out I pour water into the "jar" as it doesn't mix and is heavier than the finish. When the jar is low on finish I siphon out the water and refill the jar from the Waterlox can, then top off the can with Bloxygen. Bloxygen is expensive, this reduces the use.
Recently I decided to try Alan Lacer's mix of varnish, Tung oil, and linseed oil. I like the results. The problem is the varnish - that recommended in his book is not available in its old form. I did my research and came up with the best substitute I could (McCloskey's MOW gloss spar varnish). Made a small batch (about 60 ml in my 80 ml apothecary jars), but also put 60 ml in another jar so I didn't have to try to pour from the quart can for the next batch - it's hard to aim a quart sized paint can at a measuring device (what the heck do you call them graduated cylinders - oops, that's it, graduated cylinders).
My mixture is holding up nicely, shake it and its ready. My varnish, in the unmixed form, has sealed itself in the jar. My question is this - if the varnish has reacted with the air in the jar to make a surface coat (which it has, I can turn the jar upside down and nothing moves) has the varnish underneath the solidified varnish deteriorated? Can I just break the "seal" and pour out the underlying varnish (strained, of course) for my next batch of my mixture? The small loss of the varnish that makes the seal is not a problem as long at the underlying layer is still good. The same applies to the quart can (which I haven't dared to open - I don't want to know <g>).
BTW. I mention the apothecary bottles/jars. I get them at Michael's Crafts for my mixtures at about $1.50 to $3.00 apiece as they seal tightly without a screw top. I got tired of having to go to the pliers or wrench or rubber top opener for sticky finishes.
Recently I decided to try Alan Lacer's mix of varnish, Tung oil, and linseed oil. I like the results. The problem is the varnish - that recommended in his book is not available in its old form. I did my research and came up with the best substitute I could (McCloskey's MOW gloss spar varnish). Made a small batch (about 60 ml in my 80 ml apothecary jars), but also put 60 ml in another jar so I didn't have to try to pour from the quart can for the next batch - it's hard to aim a quart sized paint can at a measuring device (what the heck do you call them graduated cylinders - oops, that's it, graduated cylinders).
My mixture is holding up nicely, shake it and its ready. My varnish, in the unmixed form, has sealed itself in the jar. My question is this - if the varnish has reacted with the air in the jar to make a surface coat (which it has, I can turn the jar upside down and nothing moves) has the varnish underneath the solidified varnish deteriorated? Can I just break the "seal" and pour out the underlying varnish (strained, of course) for my next batch of my mixture? The small loss of the varnish that makes the seal is not a problem as long at the underlying layer is still good. The same applies to the quart can (which I haven't dared to open - I don't want to know <g>).
BTW. I mention the apothecary bottles/jars. I get them at Michael's Crafts for my mixtures at about $1.50 to $3.00 apiece as they seal tightly without a screw top. I got tired of having to go to the pliers or wrench or rubber top opener for sticky finishes.
